The "Throw Away 318"

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I havent been watching I have seen blurbs that he's in the other guys shop picking apart the cars that come in there... I dunno why he needs to post two videos a day but hell realize the money from YT will level off at some point. I dont believe the sky is the limit with YT.. What he needs to do is get a TV show like Freiburger and Dulchich. Of course this is my opinion. I beleie UT will burn out on the YT thing or he will get burnt with a fine like said before. You cant film yourself doing illegal chit and not get caught. There was a video of a guy recently who got busted and it was 25 grand i thing EPA violations with vehicles. One has to keep in mind UT wasnt a lifelong pro mechanic. I think he did it in the late 70s for a little while in a garage in his hometown. That has the potential to be bad when you teachtodays young folks that "you can put a AMC 6 intake and carb on your jeep..."

there was a time when you could remove emission equipment and get away with it, mid 80s maybe maybe up into the early 90s .It depends where you live and if they emission test back then not all areas of the country had emissions compliance tests/ UT is still in his head in the late 70s...things have changed.
 
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Dartswinger70 said:
I havent been watching I have seen blurbs that he's in the other guys shop picking apart the cars that come in there... I dunno why he needs to post two videos a day but hell realize the money from YT will level off at some point. I dont believe the sky is the limit with YT.. What he needs to do is get a TV show like Freiburger and Dulchich. Of course this is my opinion. I beleie UT will burn out on the YT thing or he will get burnt with a fine like said before. You cant film yourself doing illegal chit and not get caught. There was a video of a guy recently who got busted and it was 25 grand i thing EPA violations with vehicles. One has to keep in mind UT wasnt a lifelong pro mechanic. I think he did it in the late 70s for a little while in a garage in his hometown. That has the potential to be bad when you teachtodays young folks that "you can put a AMC 6 intake and carb on your jeep..."

there was a time when you could remove emission equipment and get away with it, mid 80s maybe maybe up into the early 90s .It depends where you live and if they emission test back then not all areas of the country had emissions compliance tests/ UT is still in his head in the late 70s...things have changed.
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Yup, they have changed. Some for the better, some no so much. I am working on ideas to put modern EFI on an old engine to run cleaner. Part of that is getting a modern design cam. One is a 1954 Chev 235 six with 5.3 LS valves and planed head using 3.8 Buick/3800 controls. Put injector bungs in the aluminum three carb manifold, modified to use the throttle and MAS. Aim the injectors at the right cylinder, so the injectors would be from the front 2, 1, 4, 3, 6, 5. Could it be compliant? Who knows. At this time we do not have emissions testing, but I think police are starting to pull over the hotrod diesel boys that leave a black cloud when the light turns green.
This engine will go in a 40 Chev Coupe with a T5 transmission.
A slant could be modified in similar manner using Jeep or Pentastar components. With O2 sensor(s) and Cats, a slant six could be brought to compliant exhaust. From what I hear the testers are pretty testy about any deviation from factory certified. Since VW and the other Sauerkraut manufacturers got caught with their pants down with their diesel ECM programing that sensed an emission test sequence to make them compliant for the test, that whole factory story is in question.
A number of years ago, Calgary, Alberta held an emission test day with just sampling idle exhaust with a 4 gas tester. They invited car club members and they had about 6 new police cars. The Street Rod club had a bunch of members come out. Now lots of these guys like their cars to sound like their drag racers from their salad days, lumpy cams and fat idle setting. After testing they would give recommendations on how to improve their exhaust emissions. Many were to just lean the idle. A friend had a 1941 Ford with a flatty and a SCOT blower with Holley 4V carb. After sniffing it they said this is not working so went to a new cop car. 4 gas worked fine and the new car did not pass. Tested the flatty again and the readings were very clean. Now the intake path on flat head engines is not good for high power, but the air/fuel gets mixed and well vapourized, which helps get a clean burn.
 
I suppose the point is UTG will run its course, he will have to come up with more and different ideas for content at the rate he is posting videos. He should go weekly but I'm thinking he's trying to make max buck on YT, his live streams remind me of the CB radio Saturday nights back in the 70s...his whole "living in the past automotively" schtick is not practical in todays world. Ive drove old cars where you worked on them over the weekend and drove them to work on Monday, that doesn't happen today without planning. it used to be the parts houses had parts on Saturday morning, now you order on the web, collect everything then tear into the car. I don't think there is anyone I know with an old car that doesn't have a modern backup vehicle to get to work...
 
Swinger 340 said:
I think we got a little off track here. Something about a 360 throwing a rod and then building a workable 318. When you build a motor (any motor), you need a plan. without going into a plan book here, I just want to put my two cents on the above mention 318. I would not install a High Volume oil pump with a stock pan. You can run the pump dry and throw a rod...
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Funny, I ran a high volume, high pressure oil pump with a stock A Body oil pan for years and hundreds of thousands of miles. That 273 was never shifted less than 3,000 rpm and frequently pushed to 6,000 or 7,000 rpm. I seriously doubt that was the problem. I did run a windage tray, but that was all.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
I suppose the point is UTG will run its course, he will have to come up with more and different ideas for content at the rate he is posting videos. He should go weekly but I'm thinking he's trying to make max buck on YT, his live streams remind me of the CB radio Saturday nights back in the 70s...his whole "living in the past automotively" schtick is not practical in todays world. Ive drove old cars where you worked on them over the weekend and drove them to work on Monday, that doesn't happen today without planning. it used to be the parts houses had parts on Saturday morning, now you order on the web, collect everything then tear into the car. I don't think there is anyone I know with an old car that doesn't have a modern backup vehicle to get to work...
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I must concur on that. Talking to half the weanlings at a parts counter do not know what points and condenser look like. Bad enough to get electronic ignition parts. Now you need all the information to fill their computer screen boxes before they can get anything. A carb kit? Even most of the dealership mechanics would have no clue as to how to go about rebuilding one. The ballast resistor, what is that?
I think we need some restored vehicles kept for historical posterity and being able to show people how it used to be.
My driver is a 99 Chev Silverado 5.3 with 335,000km or just over 200,000 miles. Just put a FP in as it was noisy and the sending unit had a senility issue.
 
Some states are not anal. Many do not smog test. Many that have so called state safety inspections check just lights, wipers, am horn!!
Until I restored just a few years back, I drove a variety of Dusters, anywhere from 60 to 120 mi per day just going to a job. Love:lol:d every mile and seldom any problems, points and all!
 
barbee6043 said:
Some states are not anal. Many do not smog test. Many that have so called state safety inspections check just lights, wipers, am horn!!
Until I restored just a few years back, I drove a variety of Dusters, anywhere from 60 to 120 mi per day just going to a job. Love:lol:d every mile and seldom any problems, points and all!
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Well maintained and you seldom have problems. The points are a "wear item" so need fairly regular attention. If you have a Concours show piece, then keep it as it came off the factory floor. But then you do not drive it 100 miles per day. Those other well restored vehicles I would be inclined to install an electronic ignition. You can get a Pertronix that is almost invisible or use the Chrysler parts from a picknpull. The Chrysler system gave the least problems of them all. The GM main problem was the wires flexing going to the pickup plate that flexed as the vaccum advance operated. Fords main problem was the box on the inner fender. Can not understand why that was such a piece of crap, being mounted on the inner fender away from engine heat. The Mopar mounted on the firewall at the back of the engine. Very occasionally a pickup or module would fail.
If you check the wiring diagrams you will notice a similarity. You can get away with changing to another system module. I had a Ford that kept giving trouble with the module and it would quit (found on road dead. I wired it to run on a GM HEI module pulled out at a picknpull. I could have used a Mopar module just as easily. Eventually it would not start as the ring gear was worn. The 302 crankshaft had about 3/16 inch end play. Got a 351W in parts, put it together and had no more troubles with it. When the heater core failed and I pretty much had to remove the dash for access, I found paper matches from LA, NYC and Florida. It had almost 300,000 miles on it.
 
Man one day for sure I’m gonna build me an 11:1 Comp. 318 with a solid roller and w2 heads.

currently looking in the junk yards for an 80’s roller block. Mmmhhhmm.
 
mopardude318 said:
Man one day for sure I’m gonna build me an 11:1 Comp. 318 with a solid roller and w2 heads.

currently looking in the junk yards for an 80’s roller block. Mmmhhhmm.
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Do you need a roller block with solid rollers. I have not seen solid rollers that use the factory roller alignment system. They generally use link bar rollers. The other issue is running 11:1 these days as the push to go electrons is only going to get worse. Personnally I think the woke numbnutz that are working the carbon climate strategy are pissing on an electric fence. We have had global warming for something like 12,000 years, since the end of the last iceage. Enough on that rant.
A 10:1 stroker for about 6 liter displacement and that can run on 91 octane or less would be a better plan. Get a copy of David Visard's "How to Build Horsepower" and " How to Port and Flow Test Cylinder Heads". I have no financial interest in these books, but he gives some valuable information. Some goes against the current, but his record of race and championship wins as an engine builder and race driver in multiple series indicates he knows what he talks of. You can find his videos on Youtube under Powertec 10. He definately goes against convention on cam LCA. Do a lot of research before making parts purchases as you will save yourself tons of money and headaches.
 
I currently have IMM Engines in Indio California building me a 318/392 stroker.
1968 virgin block
10:1
Retro-Roller cam
Around 450 HP/500 Torque.
318s respond to mods as well as any other small block mopar.

THEY ARE NOT TRASH.

Jeff
 
^^ They may not be trash but many people give can't them away so they must be cheaper than free ...then some are going to sink coin into them and profess how great they are. Truth is its a cheap mans 340 after they dump money into them which goes against being cheap in the first place. See what a circle jerk this becomes?
 
MrJLR said:
I currently have IMM Engines in Indio California building me a 318/392 stroker.
1968 virgin block
10:1
Retro-Roller cam
Around 450 HP/500 Torque.
318s respond to mods as well as any other small block mopar.

THEY ARE NOT TRASH.

Jeff
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Hydraulic or solid cam?
 
Dartswinger70 said:
^^ They may not be trash but many people give can't them away so they must be cheaper than free ...then some are going to sink coin into them and profess how great they are. Truth is its a cheap mans 340 after they dump money into them which goes against being cheap in the first place. See what a circle jerk this becomes?
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I disagree on expense. The only variable in the build cost is piston and rings.
 
It can be argued that the only real difference in restoring one model vs another is cost of that initial project, ie a hemi 69 Charger car vs lets say a slant Dart. Cost about the same for body/paint, interior, suspension, brakes, exhaust, tires etc!
Yep, the initial cost of each is far apart, plus finding that Hemi Charger vs the slant Dart!
So why is every guy thats into the 340, not just restoring Hemi Chargers and 426 Gen. 1 Hemi engines!!?????? OK don't be the first 340 guy to respond how you always out ran that Hemi B body cars bac:poke:k in the "day"!!!!
 
Dartswinger70 said:
^^ They may not be trash but many people give can't them away so they must be cheaper than free ...then some are going to sink coin into them and profess how great they are. Truth is its a cheap mans 340 after they dump money into them which goes against being cheap in the first place. See what a circle jerk this becomes?
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First of all, I'm not cheap....
Secondly, you missed the entire point of what I said.

MrJLR said:
318s respond to mods as well as any other small block mopar.
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Jeff
 
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Dartswinger70 said:
^^ They may not be trash but many people give can't them away so they must be cheaper than free ...then some are going to sink coin into them and profess how great they are. Truth is its a cheap mans 340 after they dump money into them which goes against being cheap in the first place. See what a circle jerk this becomes?
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Welllll, you have to know what is really going on for a complete understanding. Like the General's 305 and Ford's 302, the 318 was Mopar's bread and butter engine. Now this part I am hard pressed to understand, they all had cams that were created with 0.030" to 0.050" less intake lift as compared to their 350ish cousins. None had decent vaccum, power or fuel economy, in the name of clean air. That is where all got a reputation as crap engines. The Ford did not get the rep as bad, but when Ford cam out with the 302 HO, it had a 351 cam and firing order. All you had to do to wake them up was install the 350ish engine cam and voila. Now going one step further to and "RV" cam with 204/214 at 0.050 and 0.450" lift really got them on par.
Now your comment about money, a 340 is going to cost even more for a core engine. Pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets, all other things being equal will be about the same cost. During overhaul, installing bigger valves and some pocket porting or springing for after market heads will help the 318. If you need to grind the 318 crankshaft, a 392 stroker kit with pistons, rings and bearings is a minimal extra cost. Add the $1,000 for a core 340 to its get it on the road cost and my money says you saved nothing.
 
Dale Davies said:
Welllll, you have to know what is really going on for a complete understanding. Like the General's 305 and Ford's 302, the 318 was Mopar's bread and butter engine. Now this part I am hard pressed to understand, they all had cams that were created with 0.030" to 0.050" less intake lift as compared to their 350ish cousins. None had decent vaccum, power or fuel economy, in the name of clean air. That is where all got a reputation as crap engines. The Ford did not get the rep as bad, but when Ford cam out with the 302 HO, it had a 351 cam and firing order. All you had to do to wake them up was install the 350ish engine cam and voila. Now going one step further to and "RV" cam with 204/214 at 0.050 and 0.450" lift really got them on par.
Now your comment about money, a 340 is going to cost even more for a core engine. Pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets, all other things being equal will be about the same cost. During overhaul, installing bigger valves and some pocket porting or springing for after market heads will help the 318. If you need to grind the 318 crankshaft, a 392 stroker kit with pistons, rings and bearings is a minimal extra cost. Add the $1,000 for a core 340 to its get it on the road cost and my money says you saved nothing.
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I can agree money wise. say the $1000 you mentioned? I bought a whole car with two spare engines in 1993 for $1000..was that alot back then? I say no but noone really wanted MOPARS back then, and 340s as now only those who knew what they were were willing to pay. i would say in the grand sceme of things a geand isnt bad for a core engine if it is all there. Now that means you may sink more into the build. How much will you soend on a 318 build even if it is free? I am curious. i cen see the $$$ savings going with a "free" 318 though its at least the cost of a 340. 360s seem to go for decent money also.
 
MrJLR said:
First of all, I'm not cheap....
Secondly, you missed the entire point of what I said.

No need to get butthurt. Isn't about you. I am having a fairly civil conversation with dale there, and I am capable of being an asshole just like most everyone else but am also capable of conversing with folks of a certain intellect.:)





Jeff
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I picked up my core 318 (complete from valve covers to oil pan) for $100.
Couldn't get a 340 for that.
And with 450 HP/500 Torque, I'm just fine not having a 340/360.

MrJLR said:
318s respond to mods as well as any other small block mopar.
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Jeff
 
Dartswinger70 said:
How much will you spend on a 318 build even if it is free? I am curious. i cen see the $$$ savings going with a "free" 318 though its at least the cost of a 340. 360s seem to go for decent money also.
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Let’s start with we have both engines for free.
The cost difference is in the pistons and rings.

Let’s start with nothing for the 318 we have with the car and e listen to every internet guru saying how bad and ridiculous a 318 is and jump to spending on a 340. Now we are at the purchase of the engine block. Now add in costs to get the block to you. This is a variable that is hard to calculate. $1,000 for a 340 block with main caps?
What’s shipping for this heavy thing across the state or several? Let’s leave that out for now. We will add it in later.
Your now a $1,000 in the hole with a unknown quality block. A serious gamble for some here. A grand can go pretty far on the 318 you have now.

Again, besides pistons & rings, at what ever the difference could be, your also behind a min. of a grand.
Besides the obvious performance advantage and return on monies spent that is in favor of the 340, does the extra cost become worth the expense in overall dollar spent? Only yes if the overall plan is A LOT of HP. Respectable power can still be made with the smaller engine.

Often is the point made, often point blank, money is an issue and ultimate performance is not wanted but only a moderate build is being sought. This is the TRUE circle jerk & loosing ways when people chase modest to moderate power by spending on a 340 instead of building what they had to begin with, the 318.
 
318 or 340 pistons and rings being the main differences in costs, what is the reciprocating weight savings? A set of 318 pistons and rings will weigh less... and then if you balance the crank and remove weight out for the 318 piston set, its even lighter.

If you max port the heads and use the same cams, at a MAX build of both engines, what is the HP ratings? Maybe the maxed 340 will make 20 to 25 more horses but the 318 will rap a little quicker.

A free 318 short block VS a $1000+ 340 block is the main argument here for some.
That $1000+ will go a long way on that FREE 318 block.

Someone that is PRO 340 will always find some argument to support their feelings. ;) But if you give me a 340 block I'd make a 426 stroker out of it.
 
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A free 318 short block VS a $1000+ 340 block is the main argument here for some.
That $1000+ will go a long way on that FREE 318 block.[/QUOTE]

I can see that. And understand . But why go one step further in saying things like "the 318 can do what the 340 can do..." to finish that sentence it should read" "...with alot of parts swapped from a 340 and mods..." Just say "its a 318 runs good..." and leave it at that...all the self inflicted butt hurt is started by 318 guys IMO Hogginr out 318 heads, I mean the runners in 340 heads are bigger plain and simple, you arent hogging 318 head runners out to 340 360 size. if I was on an island and all I had was a 318,i'd order a set of aftermarket heads. Edelbrocks and call it done.
 
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Dave_J said:
318 or 340 pistons and rings being the main differences in costs, what is the reciprocating weight savings? A set of 318 pistons and rings will weigh less... and then if you balance the crank and remove weight out for the 318 piston set, its even lighter.

If you max port the heads and use the same cams, at a MAX build of both engines, what is the HP ratings? Maybe the maxed 340 will make 20 to 25 more horses but the 318 will rap a little quicker.

A free 318 short block VS a $1000+ 340 block is the main argument here for some.
That $1000+ will go a long way on that FREE 318 block.

Someone that is PRO 340 will always find some argument to support their feelings. ;) But if you give me a 340 block I'd make a 426 stroker out of it.
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What heads? 318 heads? or 340 heads on a 318...?:)
 
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