ian
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lol sorry ,your right
The truth about caltracs
- Thread starter chad67gtdart
- Start date
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lol sorry ,your right
ian
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i am no expert ,good luck ,as i say to the wife
i am no gynocolgest but i am willing to take a look
Every setup has it's problems.
Here's my ladder bar car needing to have the instant center adjusted.
I need to have the traction last less.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Every setup has it's problems.
Here's my ladder bar car needing to have the instant center adjusted.
I need to have the traction last less.
How does one go setting up a car with ladder bars or a 4 link? Is it "roughed in" on scales then fine tuned at the track? Or is it all just trial & error?
View attachment IMG_4364 (Medium).jpg
This is a local guy, he is actually 69valiantracer's friend/transmission builder. Car is a deadly consistent low 10 second car. No wheelie bars. Don't know what it has for rear suspension but it aint leaf springs. This picture is how it launches. Hits the slicks, picks the tires up that little bit for not even a car length then scoots down the track.
dusterdragracer
Drag Racer
@inkjunky....Randy's car is a 4 link,square tube chassis and he regrets the 4 link. Wishes he would have gone ladder bar.He fought it for years, and has never got it where he wants it. it is good, but Steve Johansons notch back, 60's better with ladders. You didn't get to see it run this year.Steve's car has been around for years, won more then Randy's, has had different motors in it, and has always been deadly.
Randy's car runs 9'@ sea level, and here before the NHRA adj. clocks, our motors are identical except cam & carb.
Here is me taking Steve out @ Woodburn, the Race of Champions in my Daytona
@womanator: Looks like Woodburn?
@Ian: I couldn't get over the wierd feeling, of leaving in my buddies right hook Cuda @ Willowbank.The torque coming from the left, and going down in your seat at launch, compared to raising up in your seat, felt strange.Also they ran a 4 teeths full tree when I was there.
Randy's car runs 9'@ sea level, and here before the NHRA adj. clocks, our motors are identical except cam & carb.
Here is me taking Steve out @ Woodburn, the Race of Champions in my Daytona
@womanator: Looks like Woodburn?
@Ian: I couldn't get over the wierd feeling, of leaving in my buddies right hook Cuda @ Willowbank.The torque coming from the left, and going down in your seat at launch, compared to raising up in your seat, felt strange.Also they ran a 4 teeths full tree when I was there.
ian
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yes it would fee strange lol
For the original poster, here is what worked on my car:
Bottom hole, 1 flat preload driver side, 2 flats preload passenger side.
Rear shocks set on 6.
I have a sneaking suspicion that this might change this fall, but as of right now, my car is still slightly faster on bone stock springs (1.49 60'). The one thing that the caltracs did do for my car was make it consistent when the track was crap, and make the launch level (no more twisting launch with 1 tire in the air).
Get your front end loose as you can, drop any extra weight off the front that you can (move battery to truck, remove font bumper, glass hood, etc), and get the nose low. These are the things that really helped my car get good weight transfer before adding the Caltracks.
I have been tuning my Caltracks for over a year, and I have not given up on them yet. I footbrake, current 60' times are usually low 1.50's (1.53-1.52). Last year in the fall I got one 1.49x 60', just a few thousandths slower than my best on stock springs...but I used to have 1.49-1.50 60' times on a regular basis on my stock springs.....Anyway, I should know later this month if my recent findings of transmission issues have any pay off with a quicker ET and 60'. I have 2 more races in my "slow" setup, then I'm switching it back to going fast....long story.
Well, I was right to not completely abandon hope...Ran the car all out for the first time with the new transmission and got a new best 60' and 1/8 mile in not ideal air (70°, 2000' DA). 1.47 60', 6.81 1/8 mile, on the brake for the last 100' and 1 womp of the gas it ran 10.83...looking at the incrementals it would have been a 10.79-10.78.
It appears that (at least in my case) I started having transmission issues about the same time I put the Caltracks on 2 years ago. I guess I'll jump the fence and say I like them now...lol.
MikeD
Well-Known Member
I run a BB somewhere around 600 hp and still use SS springs with clamps, i've also moved the axle back around an inch. Car runs on average 1.40 to 1.43 and has gone 1.39 before.
Mick
Mick
dragduster
Active Member
Make sure to get the pinion angle right. I typically get 1.46ish 60ft with 3 deg down. I tried 5 deg down and lost 0.03 right off the get go.
Great thread!
ian
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thats a good set up mate
dusterdragracer
Drag Racer
This is how you fix your Cal Trac issues....LOL.....130 60's all day long! I took a short cut!
skrews
Well-Known Member
^^^ No, no, no. You're just a couple of clicks off on the shocks is all. LOL
Hi All.
We've ran Caltracs for 13 years and with 3 different engine combo's (soon to be 4) we've been through a lot of what everyones mentioning.
OK from the beginning, we expected to run quicker with them straight away but didn't over the old superstock springs and snubber system. The car was much more consistant and drove nicer up the track this was with an 11sec 440 motor (550hp at 3800lb). Since we are bracket racers it was fine. 60fts were in the hi 1.5 lo 1.6 range.
Next combo was a 528 Iron motor indy heads. This eventually got down to 10.00's initially it was in the lo 11's. Here we discovered it was hitting the tyre hard, lots of seperation. Tightening the rancho to max helped as did tubes in the slicks and more pressure. Altering preload didn't seem to help. We had to change both sides the same if we did, as it would drive to one side or the other. We also started looking at the front, slowing the rise at the front helped a lot, c/e three ways were set at 60/40.
We started to get the "porpoising" problems when we got a handle on the engine tune and started to go quicker. A smaller higher stall converter gave us 4 tenths and showed up the problem more. We needed more pressure in the tyre and more front travel. 60fts in the mid 1.45's
By now we had the 572 motor in and we are running hi 9's we've altered the front suspension to give us as much travel as possible and were are running a 29inch front tyre to get the ride height back. We are now doing the odd massive wheelie (175ft) and always pulling the wheels at least 2ft. 60fts are 1.40 with a best of 1.37 (good air). A couple of seasons ago we fitted afco d/a's dynamic strut rods and tubula uca's with heim joints, the lower stock arms are boxed. Also fitted travel limiters. We can now control the hit on the tyre using the front. Car is really consistent we've gone a best of 9.57 and 142.
The setup is still hitting the tyre a little too hard in my opinion so for next season we've gone for afco d/a's and an anti roll bar on the rear to help since we are putting in a 655ci motor. Car is getting all the stuff to run in the 8's and 150mph + but we're keeping the caltracs
HTH's
We've ran Caltracs for 13 years and with 3 different engine combo's (soon to be 4) we've been through a lot of what everyones mentioning.
OK from the beginning, we expected to run quicker with them straight away but didn't over the old superstock springs and snubber system. The car was much more consistant and drove nicer up the track this was with an 11sec 440 motor (550hp at 3800lb). Since we are bracket racers it was fine. 60fts were in the hi 1.5 lo 1.6 range.
Next combo was a 528 Iron motor indy heads. This eventually got down to 10.00's initially it was in the lo 11's. Here we discovered it was hitting the tyre hard, lots of seperation. Tightening the rancho to max helped as did tubes in the slicks and more pressure. Altering preload didn't seem to help. We had to change both sides the same if we did, as it would drive to one side or the other. We also started looking at the front, slowing the rise at the front helped a lot, c/e three ways were set at 60/40.
We started to get the "porpoising" problems when we got a handle on the engine tune and started to go quicker. A smaller higher stall converter gave us 4 tenths and showed up the problem more. We needed more pressure in the tyre and more front travel. 60fts in the mid 1.45's
By now we had the 572 motor in and we are running hi 9's we've altered the front suspension to give us as much travel as possible and were are running a 29inch front tyre to get the ride height back. We are now doing the odd massive wheelie (175ft) and always pulling the wheels at least 2ft. 60fts are 1.40 with a best of 1.37 (good air). A couple of seasons ago we fitted afco d/a's dynamic strut rods and tubula uca's with heim joints, the lower stock arms are boxed. Also fitted travel limiters. We can now control the hit on the tyre using the front. Car is really consistent we've gone a best of 9.57 and 142.
The setup is still hitting the tyre a little too hard in my opinion so for next season we've gone for afco d/a's and an anti roll bar on the rear to help since we are putting in a 655ci motor. Car is getting all the stuff to run in the 8's and 150mph + but we're keeping the caltracs
HTH's
famous bob
mopar misfit
dusterdragracer
Drag Racer
HEE HEE HEE, for sure coming to see you guys next season.Bremerton & Walla Walla, Yakama On my list, going to sign up for points here, but not going to be married to the track.
How about that Steve Johanson? Doesn't race all year, takes track champ. To those that don't know him, he is the one in the blk/pink cuda above with me in my Daytona.He is the man to beat.
dusterdragracer
Drag Racer
Sorry I was hard on all those that run Cal Tracs.Last year was very frustrating. I wish I left the car alone (SS springs/snubber).
With all due respect,I finally came to the conclusion if you are determinded to make them work,it is going to take much more hardware then what Calvert sells you. In my opinion it takes sliders, Afco shocks,tubes, more rear tire pressure, as much front end travel you can get, and leave soft as you can.Adapting longer mono leafs will help a whole bunch too.
Now this is fine if you want to stay leaf springs. But the bottom line is, for what all this costs (including the Cal Tracs themselves) you can ladder bar a car, and it's going to work better straight away.
My issue is, I was under the impression they worked pretty good out of the box, and better then SS springs with a snubber. They didn't. I was racing seriously for Summit series points, and other then 1 day of TT's there was no other time to mess with them.They are going to take work, I admit that now.I can see you can more or less make them work.
If you are one that wants to go play with your car, and just have fun seeing how fast you can go on leaf springs, they are for you. If you want a consistant car right of the box, and don't want to fiddle with it, stay with the SS springs and snubber. If you want to go serious racing, back half it, or atleast ladder bar and mini tub it.
I decided to take a short cut myself.The Valiant is for sale if you want to go Cal Trac Racing.
Didn't take it as Caltrac bashing, was hoping that my experience might help a little. I understand your frustration. Like most stuff they need to be adjusted to work on Mopars and when you change the drivetrain combo you need to adjust the chassis too. Forgot to add a slo-mo video cam becomes a useful tool. You're absolutely right, there's more to a working Caltrac package than some springs, bars and shocks
Nice Valiant BTW
Nice Valiant BTW
dusterdragracer
Drag Racer
As far as consistence go's.
Last outing with the Super Pro ladder bar car.
The package was .008,.009.012.then red lit.
The last pass we had to scrape the VHT off the oil pan.
Never been that consistent in my SS spring car.
But I have gone to the Calvert set-up in the Duster.
Last outing with the Super Pro ladder bar car.
The package was .008,.009.012.then red lit.
The last pass we had to scrape the VHT off the oil pan.
Never been that consistent in my SS spring car.
But I have gone to the Calvert set-up in the Duster.
Great info,from experienced racers,on Cal Tracks,Thanks. Like any suspension setup, takes time to tune (like anything else...) This is intellicual info!
dusterdragracer
Drag Racer
as far as consistence go's.
Last outing with the super pro ladder bar car.
The package was .008,.009.012.then red lit.
the last pass we had to scrape the vht off the oil pan.
Never been that consistent in my ss spring car.
But i have gone to the calvert set-up in the duster.
oops!
wheelsup73
Well-Known Member
Correct.
There is nothing you can buy ,bolt on and go out and drag the bumper.It takes alot of testing. I have found my car to being very sensitive to the tires on it. I cannot run hoosiers or mickeys they just don't hook well no matter what I did , but the Phoenix tires kick butt and hook hard. We have ladder bars on lisa's Dart but my Pontiac has the Caltracs, mono springs and shocks and works very well. I run a 9 inch slick and my poncho is 3385# and last time out it ran 1.394 60 foot and ran 10.12 at 131 and out of 7 passes the slowest 60 was 1.407.
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