TorqStorm Supercharger build advice needed

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I mean I had bigger tires on a jeep with manual steering but kids today are softer! LOL. All jokes aside my kid is strong as an ox but neither of us wants him to loose the PS. Plus that would mean more money for another box and finding a drop pitman arm for a manual box.
 
Definitely following along, I want to do the TorqStorm, but I’m way too old to give up the AC!!!
 
Jerry Miller said:
I mean I had bigger tires on a jeep with manual steering but kids today are softer! LOL. All jokes aside my kid is strong as an ox but neither of us wants him to loose the PS. Plus that would mean more money for another box and finding a drop pitman arm for a manual box.
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You might try mounting a later pump assy. that has a remote reservoir, later Dakotas and minivans for instance, takes up very little space. Every one I've seen drives off the inside of the belt, so rotation would be correct, type of pulley would have to be changed out.
Oh, and Jeeps with big tires & manual steering???, been there.
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Check out this place called ePowersteering.com They have exactly what you need for electric power steering. I put power steering on a friend’s FJ40 and he can turn his 35” tires with one finger at a stand still. I also put together electric PS on my A100 using scrap yard parts.
 
Thanks everyone. So before actually yanking the engine I had him run a warm engine compression test. Now mind you we did a valve job and .030 shave on the head before. Bottom is untouched and power is not great and has oil consumption and wet oily plugs. Hence the full rebuild and supercharger thread. Anyway, the way she sits right now we have 165-175 psi of compression. That seems great! But the engine sucks for power all things considered. Now my son and I had assumed the rebuild would give him more power and then of course the charger, but now he thinks it’s just going to be whatever the charger adds. Is it possible that actual compression while running is way worse than the cranking compression indicates? I’m not setup to do a leak down test at the moment. Blow by seems non existent with pcv valve connected to the carb. If I close this off his open element breather in the back of the valve cover does have smoke while idling. I just don’t want him to be disappointed in what the supercharger is going to add. I know the bottom end needs work due to the oil. I assume the oil control rings are just trashed. (We did Berryman a while ago just to see)
 
Mopars have soft valve guides. Rev it up, lift and look at the tail pipe. If it is sucking oil through the valve guides you will have blue smoke. WIFI cameras are really cheap, Look and see if you have a bunch of crud on the top surfaces of your valves.
 
Jerry Miller said:
Thanks everyone. So before actually yanking the engine I had him run a warm engine compression test. Now mind you we did a valve job and .030 shave on the head before. Bottom is untouched and power is not great and has oil consumption and wet oily plugs. Hence the full rebuild and supercharger thread. Anyway, the way she sits right now we have 165-175 psi of compression. That seems great! But the engine sucks for power all things considered. Now my son and I had assumed the rebuild would give him more power and then of course the charger, but now he thinks it’s just going to be whatever the charger adds. Is it possible that actual compression while running is way worse than the cranking compression indicates? I’m not setup to do a leak down test at the moment. Blow by seems non existent with pcv valve connected to the carb. If I close this off his open element breather in the back of the valve cover does have smoke while idling. I just don’t want him to be disappointed in what the supercharger is going to add. I know the bottom end needs work due to the oil. I assume the oil control rings are just trashed. (We did Berryman a while ago just to see)
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Sometimes a worn but otherwise sound engine will make more power due to lower friction. The oily plugs indicate the oil and/or second compression ring are worn or stuck. If during ring installation, the second compression ring is installed upside down, it will pump oil out like crazy. The second compression ring is as much or more an oil control ring. Loose valve guides or no oil seals could cause oil in the cylinders. Valve guide oil seapage will show up as blue smoke on decceration or after idling at a light and blue smoke as you accelerate and then clear. If it is the rings it will be while driving. It may not be noticable to the driver so someone should follow to watch for a faint blue smoke.
If the rings are the problem to allow the plugs to get oily, the top of the piston crown around the outside will be washed clean.
Again I encourage you to watch David Vizzard Powertec 10 Episode 95. You could get 10.5:1 pistons and use the water injection with 2% water soluable oil. Ignition advance can actually be advanced a couple of degrees. Use a pressure swith that closes at 5 PSI to turn the water injection pump on. An adjustable switch would be good to find the point it starts to knock and turn the water on just prior. This should be referenced to the pressure in the intake manifold. At cruise power the manifold is likely going to be in vacuum so ignition retard or water injection is not required.
 
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Rug_Trucker said:
Mopars have soft valve guides. Rev it up, lift and look at the tail pipe. If it is sucking oil through the valve guides you will have blue smoke. WIFI cameras are really cheap, Look and see if you have a bunch of crud on the top surfaces of your valves.
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I appreciate that. The head was rebuilt just a few hundred miles ago. It had 3 burned exhaust valves. We just had a basic valve job done at the time. The machine shop elected to knurle the guides as they were "iffy" and installed new valve seals as well. I would have elected for new guides if he had called me first, but I'll address that when we have it back down. Unless the new valve stem seals have failed in 200 miles, but I don't know. Knurled guides never made me comfortable from a long term stance.
If I rev it pretty high several times in a row she can make a decent amount. Just driving under load it is a faint but visible stream from the tailpipe, but once it gets to full temp, that pretty much goes away, but the smoke will remain if you romp on it. The fact that she smokes under load, especially cold, has me questioning whether the comp test really means much. I know high compression numbers can be from carbon, but the head is clean for now. I'm I wrong that 165-175 seems high for just having the head shaved a bit. Wish I could just put it on a dyno as is and just see. I was really hoping his comp test would come back in the 90-100 range so I could have been like yeah, the bottom end rebuild is gonna make a big difference!
Jerry
 
The high compression test numbers can be a result of the oil in the cylinder. They do seem artificially high for this application.
 
And, that same oil in the chamber under boost will make the engine rattle its brains out detonating. Oil reduces the effective octane rating of the fuel big time.
 
Thanks. This makes me feel better. The plan is to get the engine yanked out this weekend or so and over to the machine shop. Even though the head was just done, it's coming back apart for the new valve springs that comes with the cam package and I'm going to have him do new valve guides. As far as I know, the engine (until we did the head) is untouched from the factory. Mileage is kind of unknown (there is some discrepencies) but based on the more reliable documents, I think it is around 150,000 or so. Odometer is around 50,000 and based on other wear when we first got the truck, I think it's 150 and not 250.
 
Well,
After 4 pages of great advice and discussion.....he just picked up a 360 for a V-8 build, LOL. I mean, it makes sense dollar for dollar, plus he has a small block bellhousing just laying in front of my garage. I do appreciate all the help. The slant will be hanging out for a bit. We might do a quick overhaul on the bottom end and set it aside for something else. Dumb idea, but I have an old 1987 Mazda B2600 with bad engine. Slant six swapped, rock buggy maybe! LOL
 
RustyRatRod said:
You guys SUCK. I shouldn't have ever even pend this thread. Now I'm really thinking about a boosted engine. lol Maybe next build.
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You should see the curve on the PF Trends model with 8 PSI of boost.... that is why I am seriously considering it for the A100......
 
dddDuster said:
Hi Jim- have you figured a way to have AC if you use the TorqStorm?
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I am looking more at Gill Welding Turbo stuff. I don’t. Plus I’m working on A100s that have the alt on the drivers side which complicates it even more.
 
Bringin this back to the top cause I'm thinkin again. Dangerous. How bout a cheap and nasty turbo build with 6-8 psi on a worn bore ball honed with new rings and original cast pistons? The ring gaps would be wider than stock. Run it a little fat maybe with a 350 Holley two barrel. I don't care about a little smoke here and there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bringin this back to the top cause I'm thinkin again. Dangerous. How bout a cheap and nasty turbo build with 6-8 psi on a worn bore ball honed with new rings and original cast pistons? The ring gaps would be wider than stock. Run it a little fat maybe with a 350 Holley two barrel. I don't care about a little smoke here and there.
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Blow-thru' or draw-thru'? No way I'd use a carb that small draw-thru, but if the bar ain't high,.....500 2bbl'd be OK, be some suksheeon on the inlet side of the snail otherwise.
 
Rug_Trucker said:
Should be lots of H1-C's out there from 5.
9 first Gens. No waste gates on them .
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I don't think those turbos lend themselves to draw thru use. Don't think they have the proper oil seal. There are some turbos that have conversion oil seal kits available. don't know if those are one of them.
 
Killer6 said:
Blow-thru' or draw-thru'? No way I'd use a carb that small draw-thru, but if the bar ain't high,.....500 2bbl'd be OK, be some suksheeon on the inlet side of the snail otherwise.
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blow through.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bringin this back to the top cause I'm thinkin again. Dangerous. How bout a cheap and nasty turbo build with 6-8 psi on a worn bore ball honed with new rings and original cast pistons? The ring gaps would be wider than stock. Run it a little fat maybe with a 350 Holley two barrel. I don't care about a little smoke here and there.
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After repeatedly flogging a 200,000 mile 225 with a freeze cracked block on a chassis dyno with about that much boost to 5500 RPM, the first thing to break was a rocker arm adjustment screw, followed by the #6 rod bearing due to the oil pick up clogging. Pistons were just fine with no signs of damage. Biggest challenge may be getting a decent carb tune.
 
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