Under $4k budget build LA360 build

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Dartswinger70 said:
I like watching UTG for the "entertainment" of it. But I don't think he "walks you through" anything. In fact he'll tell you to seek out other videos about specific wrenching situations. he gets bashed by some out there but i like watching him tinker around like trying to make Bottle rocket go 10 seconds etc.
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I totally agree. He’s good TV. I like that he’s always saying that you should do your own research. His 30 minute video on the ins and outs of Carburetors was great. It helped me out a lot.
 
Haven’t actually heard a 72 up 340 cam but I thought that it’s 114 lobe separation angle made it not have a loopy idle. Don’t know about the 68-71
Impressions???
 
From what "legend " says LOL the 68 manual cam was the most aggressive factory cam in the 340. from 69 on they all used the auto cam from 68 I believe. I may be incorrect. i do seem to think that 68 manual cam was one year only.
 
John Collins said:
That’s too funny. I came in thinking I knew something, but that something turned out to be just a drop in an Olympic sized pool. Lol.
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There is so much stuff I didn't have a clue about. For example the retainer to guide clearance! I had no clue how much factory heads where limited too as far as lift goes. I think my factory heads where like .475 max lift with the umbrella seals. Wonder how many people put in .500 lift cams without knowing that and wonder why they are bending pushrods? lol
 
dartfreak75 said:
There is so much stuff I didn't have a clue about. For example the retainer to guide clearance! I had no clue how much factory heads where limited too as far as lift goes. I think my factory heads where like .475 max lift with the umbrella seals. Wonder how many people put in .500 lift cams without knowing that and wonder why they are bending pushrods? lol
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I just learned that if you turn your crank, you have to get the corresponding bearing to adjust for the material taken off of the crank. Useful info as I’m planning on using the crank from this block. Crisis averted. Lol.
 
John Collins said:
I just learned that if you turn your crank, you have to get the corresponding bearing to adjust for the material taken off of the crank. Useful info as I’m planning on using the crank from this block. Crisis averted. Lol.
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Indeed you do. Both my cranks are ground 10 under both mains and rods; bearings need to reflect that.
So you're using a cast crank, then? Do you know if it's the standard cast or the shot-peened version?
 
John Collins said:
I just learned that if you turn your crank, you have to get the corresponding bearing to adjust for the material taken off of the crank. Useful info as I’m planning on using the crank from this block. Crisis averted. Lol.
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True on the crank. it may or may not be stamped, also the mains can be standard, the rods .010 under or any combination. I have a crank with .010 under mains and .020 under rod journals. if in doubt measure with a micrometer. there is alot of measuring and checking and cleaning in an engine build LOL!
 
Captainkirk said:
Indeed you do. Both my cranks are ground 10 under both mains and rods; bearings need to reflect that.
So you're using a cast crank, then? Do you know if it's the standard cast or the shot-peened version?
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From what I’ve read, the stock cast crank is suitable for builds up to 600hp. I only have a picture of it, tightly wrapped up in plastic with a 10/10 360 written on it... It’s from block 4006830-360-2 from late 1975 though.
 
John Collins said:
From what I’ve read, the stock cast crank is suitable for builds up to 600hp. I only have a picture of it, tightly wrapped up in plastic with a 10/10 360 written on it... It’s from block 4006830-360-2 from late 1975 though.
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I would think the 10/10 means you need .010 under rod and main bearings.

you can mic it then plasti guage it upon assembly. Both will indicate if there are any issues. I know it sounds like alot but after you do it once or twice its like riding a bike you never forget it. basically work in stages,get the short block together first then oil pan then heads and vlale train. each section goes in steps. then there is the front timing cover and balancer etc. dont try and do it all in one day LOL! but you could...
 
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John Collins said:
From what I’ve read, the stock cast crank is suitable for builds up to 600hp. I only have a picture of it, tightly wrapped up in plastic with a 10/10 360 written on it... It’s from block 4006830-360-2 from late 1975 though.
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Reason I ask, John, is that most of the 360 LA truck and pass car cranks and some of the '73-on 340 cast cranks were shot peened, which makes them a bunch more durable than the un-peened versions. I can send you the details when I get home if you'd like to know. The main journals of the 360 crank are also larger in diameter than the 273/318/340 which adds to the stiffness and durability of the 360 crank.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
I would think the 10/10 means you need .010 under rod and main bearings.
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I’m going to take it and the rest of what I have in to get checked over at a machine shop. They’ll confirm it... I’m hoping this block is what the PO says it is and is ready to go. The crank will need to get polished, I’m sure but hopefully that’s it. We’ll see though.


Captainkirk said:
Reason I ask, John, is that most of the 360 LA truck and pass car cranks and some of the '73-on 340 cast cranks were shot peened, which makes them a bunch more durable than the un-peened versions. I can send you the details when I get home if you'd like to know. The main journals of the 360 crank are also larger in diameter than the 273/318/340 which adds to the stiffness and durability of the 360 crank.
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Ah... Yes please! How can you tell the difference? Is it by appearance, or casting number?
 
Dartswinger70 said:
in the past I've used a book called "how to rebuild your small block Mopar engine"
this one is pricey but there are others available. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0895861283/?tag=fabo03-20

This book will tell you the parts interchangeability etc. As well as it will tell you how to actually assemble the engine.
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I haven’t seen this one... I have few coming already, but I’d consider buying it, if it wasn’t $60. I’ll keep it mind though.

Edit: Damn, now two of you are suggesting it... Well, looks like I’m buying it. Lol
 
Brooks James said:
Haven’t actually heard a 72 up 340 cam but I thought that it’s 114 lobe separation angle made it not have a loopy idle. Don’t know about the 68-71
Impressions???
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It's the same as the 68 and up 340 auto cam. Only the 68 340 4 speed cam was different.
 
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340 cam specs...
 
3.55 gears are money
John Collins said:
I’ll look into it all of this. Thank you for the advice. My only problem is highway driving with 3.91’s. I’ll have to weigh the pros and cons on that. I was already thinking about moving up to 3.55’s... I need to reread your reply a couple times and do some research. Lol
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Captainkirk said:
Reason I ask, John, is that most of the 360 LA truck and pass car cranks and some of the '73-on 340 cast cranks were shot peened, which makes them a bunch more durable than the un-peened versions. I can send you the details when I get home if you'd like to know. The main journals of the 360 crank are also larger in diameter than the 273/318/340 which adds to the stiffness and durability of the 360 crank.
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What exactly does shot perming do??
 
John Collins said:
I just learned that if you turn your crank, you have to get the corresponding bearing to adjust for the material taken off of the crank. Useful info as I’m planning on using the crank from this block. Crisis averted. Lol.
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I bought a new (refurbished) crank it came with with the correct bearings for cheaper than I could turn my crank!
 
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