Under $4k budget build LA360 build

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You east/central boys are up late tonight! +2 on the 351C nodular iron cranks. I just finished a 1970 351C build for my best friend. Nodular iron, and one year only 1970 CJ heads. It's been fired and being broken in now, but he went the sissy cam. Our plan is to run his 1970 Mustang notch against my 1970 Swinger 340 with my 408 on the back roads of eastern Washington late this summer.
 
70dart340 said:
You east/central boys are up late tonight! +2 on the 351C nodular iron cranks. I just finished a 1970 351C build for my best friend. Nodular iron, and one year only 1970 CJ heads. It's been fired and being broken in now, but he went the sissy cam. Our plan is to run his 1970 Mustang notch against my 1970 Swinger 340 with my 408 on the back roads of eastern Washington late this summer.
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Thank you! I wonder why he threw them in? Great to know.

You’re friend doesn’t have a chance! It’ll be fun though, especially since you built the engine. Either way you win.
 
I found a local machine shop that polishes cranks for $25(he thinks the scratch will buff out like you said CaptainKirk!) assembles heads for $20/each and is going to inspect the block which includes measuring it and Sonic testing for $45. Every review is 5 star on Yelp and he’s less than a mile from my house. I can also have him do the full long block assembly for $450 total and I can sit in and watch, or drop the engine off and pay in installments and he’ll get to it on his schedule, if I wanted to go that route. I was thinking about setting up a “Dexter” style kill room to do the assembly in my shared garage. I have plenty of Visqueen and A clips to seal off the space needed and this is my plan... I’m definitely having him assemble the heads, but If I wasn’t broke though, I’d be tempted to have him do the full long block assembly. Man!!! It’s only $360 more to do it. I’m on the fence. Lol. Maybe a random check will come in.
 
Captainkirk said:
Stimulus money!
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Not for us... We made too much money two years ago. There’s other possible checks though from debts owed. It’s not a good time to go hunting down money from people who don’t have it, so I’m wishing upon a star right now. Lol.
 
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John Collins said:
Not for us... We made too much money two years ago. There’s other possible checks though from debts owed. It’s not a good time to go hunting down money from people who don’t have it, so I’m wishing upon a star tight now. Lol.
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Go hunt down the people who owe you money that they will have from THEIR stimulus checks!:lol:
 
When I had my crank done this last time, I had them chamfer and de-burr the oil holes. Didn't cost much and really helps keep the bottom end oiled. You might also have him check into fitting a windage tray to the main bearing caps. 340's came stock from the factory with them, but I don't believe the 360 did.
 
Captainkirk said:
When I had my crank done this last time, I had them chamfer and de-burr the oil holes. Didn't cost much and really helps keep the bottom end oiled. You might also have him check into fitting a windage tray to the main bearing caps. 340's came stock from the factory with them, but I don't believe the 360 did.
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Nice... Thank you! I was thinking about a few oiling mods and adding a wind age tray. Some of my books showed up and I started my reading/studying program. I hadn’t considered and didn’t actually know about chamfering... I just had to Google the term. Lol. Thank you! I appreciate your help.

I’m hoping after reading some of these books I can lock down a bottom end/camshaft/head/intake combo that works well for my needs. I’ll ask the machinist when I drop my engine Saturday for his opinion. I’m hoping my heads won’t need much work beyond assembly. After inspecting them, they need a burr clean up.
 
John Collins said:
I’m hoping my heads won’t need much work beyond assembly. After inspecting them, they need a burr clean up.
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"Gasket match" port job is generally cheap and could actually be done yourself. But I'd check with the shop. If they'll do it for a hundred or two it's well worth the investment.
 
Speaking of books...you really need this one, too.
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Captainkirk said:
"Gasket match" port job is generally cheap and could actually be done yourself. But I'd check with the shop. If they'll do it for a hundred or two it's well worth the investment.
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I was planning on doing a gasket match and clean up myself, but I’ll ask the machinist what he thinks and what he’ll charge. As much as I want to do it myself, If it’s a wash price wise after purchasing equipment, he might as well do it.

Captainkirk said:
Speaking of books...you really need this one, too.
View attachment 1715709033
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I could only find this version from Larry Shepard that’s available for delivery this week. Same author, but it’s a little different.

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Captainkirk said:
I stand corrected. I misspoke when I said "lead shot" in my post...guess I had reloading on my my mind at the moment.
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I do that, too. Not surprised coming from you. Twins from different Mothers. I reload everything from .380 to >50 BMG. Shhhh, don't tell anyone.
 
John Collins said:
I was planning on doing a gasket match and clean up myself, but I’ll ask the machinist what he thinks and what he’ll charge. As much as I want to do it myself, If it’s a wash price wise after purchasing equipment, he might as well do it.
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Nothing really difficult about it, but you'll go through a lot of abrasives and truckloads of time doing 8 ports. It would be good if you're looking for the experience, but IMHO all the experience taught me was that I should let someone else do it next time.:rolleyes:


John Collins said:
I could only find this version from Larry Shepard that’s available for delivery this week. Same author, but it’s a little different.
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Not sure if the version I have is out of print? At any rate, Larry knows his stuff. I can't see how any book by him could be bad.
 
I read all my books and I’m putting together a parts list.

I found a set of Eagle SIR6123CB rods for $250 plus $15 shipping. They are unused, but are old stock and have minor surface rust. Is surface rust an issue? I figure any pitting would weaken them structurally, but uncertain to surface rust.
 
John Collins said:
I have several options on how to remove surface rust... I’m being cautious and asking before purchasing, considering the load that will be on these.
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Actually, surface rust should wipe off with an oily rag. These things are forged and quite strong.
 
If there is any of the $4k left over, you can give it to me....
 
I’ve been collecting parts and I’m getting close. The last big items I need are .040 pistons, torque converter(3000 recommended with my cam) and carb(I’m leaning towards the Edlebrock 1407... 750cfm). I installed my 8 3/4 rear end, but stayed with the 3.23 gears while deciding on a final gear ratio(It’s what was already in there)... Since then, I’ve decided to go with 3.91 gears.

I can purchase a set of lightly used -5cc Probe flat top forged pistons. The advertised compression is around 9.5:1 with my head combo, but when I put it in the calculator it shows 10.5:1 static and 8.8:1 dynamic, which is too high for my use. I would need to put a huge cam in to get the dynamic to a pump gas friendly range. The KB 107’s seem like a good fit for my setup. I’m still trying to figure out the best combo for quench and dynamic compression. I’d like to stay below 10:1scr and 8:1 dynamic and under .40 quench.

Part that I have

RPM Air Gap Intake (waiting on confirmation from seller)
Stock 974 iron heads with multi angle value job and 2.02/1.60 valves(no porting yet)
273 adjustable rocker arms shaft and push rods
Bushed 340 rods newly machined with new new ARP bolts
Stock cast 3.58 crank
7177 Edlebrock Cam and lifters 234/244 @.50
.488/.510 lift 112 lobe separation 107 center
Double roller timing chain
High volume oil pump and pickup
Stock oil pan(may upgrade)
Oil pump drive
Mechanical fuel pump
MSD 6a ignition, distributor and blaster 2 coil
E3 spark plugs
TTI headers
904 transmission

Parts I Need to get

KB 107-040 Pistons
Edlebrock 1407 Carburetor
3000 stall Torque Converter

Edit: Decided to go with the KB107’s after confirming the math and the 1407 carb.
 
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Sounds like you are well on your way!
What your 3 things add up to is pretty much personal choice. What does your engine builder suggest? Carbs are pretty much a personal thing; I'm a Holley guy myself but to each his own. And a carb swap can be easily done if you're not happy with the results. What does your engine guy say about the TC and pistons?
 
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