Go Mango
Never enough beer...
I charged my battery today.
That's all I've got.
That's all I've got.
What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?
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DrCharles
Well-Known Member
I got a helper and put it on... then ran around the car about 10 times trying to get the hinge bolts positioned just right. Finally got it close enough.
Unfortunately the paint is a lousy match - it's 2 shades darker, even though the same person did the fenders with the same gun, and the same brand of base with the exact same computer-generated mix was used. I got away with it having two different shops do the panels and the body though. It's always a crapshoot with metallic colors when you don't do the entire car at the same time... wondering if the gray fiberglass underneath is what affects the final shade.
Anyway I'd be embarrassed to post pics right now. Will be speaking with the painter but I suspect the only cure is to repaint the hood on the car so he's got something to match to.
Go Mango
Never enough beer...
Looking forward to seeing it! Hope it works out for you!
Garethw
Mopar. Because rocket science is too easy.
Got the front cap (if that’s what’s it’s called) off the left rocker. It was rusted trash. Good to see very solid steel down the inside of the rocker though! One day I’ll do a build thread. Would reallllllllllly like to get paint on the car this year. It’s tough at only a few hours work each week. Slow but steady.
Some of the 308 heads I have to check for cracks have some broken exhaust manifold studs stuck in them. Bought me some new tools! Some self-cantering (Ha! Yeah I'm going for more HORSE power, but the car ain't gonna canter down the road) Self-centering drill bits to drill out those broken studs and not destroy the threads. I guess I coulda put this in the Shop Tools section. Also, the wrench socket to remove the 5/16 square NPT plugs for the oil gallery...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000TZX1M/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076HIHF0/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3GOS1YX4UDRXQ&keywords=bernzomatic+ts8000&qid=1579221336&s=hi&sprefix=bernso,tools,198&sr=1-2
![IMG_20200116_1616229[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_20200116_1616229-1-jpg.1715453647/ "IMG_20200116_1616229[1].jpg")
![IMG_20200116_1628425[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_20200116_1628425-1-jpg.1715453659/ "IMG_20200116_1628425[1].jpg")
![IMG_20200116_1630444[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_20200116_1630444-1-jpg.1715453660/ "IMG_20200116_1630444[1].jpg")
![IMG_20200116_1630342[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_20200116_1630342-1-jpg.1715453664/ "IMG_20200116_1630342[1].jpg")
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000TZX1M/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076HIHF0/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3GOS1YX4UDRXQ&keywords=bernzomatic+ts8000&qid=1579221336&s=hi&sprefix=bernso,tools,198&sr=1-2
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It looks like I have two good 308 heads. I started in on the gasket matching today. I got the valves pulled and checked the seats, they look good but I think I'll probably want to have them magnafluxed and get a three angle valve job. I'll be cleaning up the runners after work this coming week. I have at least one cracked head I can practice on to get a good feel for how cautious I need to be.
I'm pretty happy with the work I got done today. Most of the valves didn't look too bad, and I have a total of four heads I can scavenge for good valves.
Tomorrow, I can get some work done on the block.
Here I have the right runner matched, left not matched yet. I left a lot of meat for the pushrod tunnels. I can take more off later if needed, but would rather avoid risking cutting through.
Here are the other runners in the same head.
Oops.
I had to head home before finishing this last runner. Monday night I suppose.
I'm pretty happy with the work I got done today. Most of the valves didn't look too bad, and I have a total of four heads I can scavenge for good valves.
Tomorrow, I can get some work done on the block.
Here I have the right runner matched, left not matched yet. I left a lot of meat for the pushrod tunnels. I can take more off later if needed, but would rather avoid risking cutting through.
Here are the other runners in the same head.
Oops.
I had to head home before finishing this last runner. Monday night I suppose.
Not a damn thing. It is in the trailer out back in the yard, wrapped in the warm blanket while the garage is getting a remodel and the battery on trickle. When in time I hope it gets a Hemi, we can all hope but not likely for my baby this year!
Red's '72 Dart
Well-Known Member
Whent to drive my 72 dart to day, and the a/c clutch bearing said not today!☹
One more thing to replace. It does look original to the car.
One more thing to replace. It does look original to the car.
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Working hard to get my A500 swap ready for its first test drive.
So far today I installed the drive shaft, installed shift linkage, kickdown linkage, swapped speedo gears from old 904 to new trans, installed the flexplate to torque conv bolts.
Got a little more to do, then maybe a test run while still in the air. Just make sure it shifts through the gears prn321. Wont test the overdrive till I actually have it on the road test.
Maybe tomorrow an actual test drive.
So far today I installed the drive shaft, installed shift linkage, kickdown linkage, swapped speedo gears from old 904 to new trans, installed the flexplate to torque conv bolts.
Got a little more to do, then maybe a test run while still in the air. Just make sure it shifts through the gears prn321. Wont test the overdrive till I actually have it on the road test.
Maybe tomorrow an actual test drive.
Awesome!! Can't wait to hear about it!! I know you have been working hard on it.
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
Mounted and connected a vacuum gauge next to the wideband AFR gauge. They're over closer to the passenger seat not only because the driver's area is already full of gauges, but also I can't watch two gauges and the road while flooring the 451
This is a flash pic of the new six-pack hood. The rest of the body is covered with fine light-colored dust, but even so it looks like it came off another car in the white flash.
Going to have to have that scuffed and re-colored, and blended into the fender and cowl too. 
But first I'm going to DRIVE it a little!
If the 8-3/4 pig will ever get here. that is (now delayed in Minneapolis by the weather.)
This is a flash pic of the new six-pack hood. The rest of the body is covered with fine light-colored dust, but even so it looks like it came off another car in the white flash.
Going to have to have that scuffed and re-colored, and blended into the fender and cowl too. But first I'm going to DRIVE it a little!
If the 8-3/4 pig will ever get here. that is (now delayed in Minneapolis by the weather.)
GreyWizard
Well-Known Member
We made some headway today. Pan is on, oil filter thingy installed, rocker kit shimmed, lifters and pushrods installed, fuel pump delete plate and harmonic balancer installed.
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Because of my Gauge cluster project I had to drain the radiator to remove the mechanical temperature gauge.
I took this opportunity to change the color of my stat housing from red to silver with the same paint I used on the exhaust manigolds.
Circumstances allowed my to re-install my shur grip hose clamp so now my engine bay has all shur grip hose clamps.
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Because I found out I could get a passenger side mirror I bought one and installed it today.
No instructions but I didn't really need any.
Tip-when installing imported parts, always chase the threads with a tap and die. Your install will go much smoother.
The inside door panel must come off of course. The gasket between the mirror and body was a little small. I heated and glued it with weatherstrip adhesive before the final install.
The mirror installed and the door panel and vapor barrier are reinstalled. Project done and moving on to my gauge cluster project.
Hey desertrat, what kind of car is this? I see it has SS A pillar trim on it.
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
1967 Barracuda notch. All the SS on the car except the front & rear glass trimmers came on the car. I bought a 70K one owner car that hadn't been loved but hadn't been mistreated either. Just luck-----
Finished the brake rebuild and Powr-lok suregrip install today. This for the D100 project. Next to put the diff back together.
Did a weekend marathon on the duster.
It's too cold these days to use the power washer so I can't power wash the engine compartment like I wanted to. I can't power wash an engine I have that needs cleaning in prep for a rebuild so I worked on something that doesn't require water..
I'm doing a fold down rear seat conversion.
The non folding seat cars have dimples showing where the brackets should go but it's still a lot of trial and error and test fitting.
The first time I welded the brackets in, I tack welded them and good thing. At the end of the adjustment range it was right where it had to be. I could have left it but I moved the brackets up a 1/4 inch. Now the seat is adjusted where it should be but is in the middle of the adjustment range, which I'm more comfortable with.
It's too cold these days to use the power washer so I can't power wash the engine compartment like I wanted to. I can't power wash an engine I have that needs cleaning in prep for a rebuild so I worked on something that doesn't require water..
I'm doing a fold down rear seat conversion.
The non folding seat cars have dimples showing where the brackets should go but it's still a lot of trial and error and test fitting.
The first time I welded the brackets in, I tack welded them and good thing. At the end of the adjustment range it was right where it had to be. I could have left it but I moved the brackets up a 1/4 inch. Now the seat is adjusted where it should be but is in the middle of the adjustment range, which I'm more comfortable with.
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Was ready to fire up the dart with the A500 install almost done. Yesterday I reconnected the battery, tried to start it and it wont crank. I've had a problem with this starter before when I had to remove it for something. The small post where trigger wire attaches, sometimes when you try to remove or install the small wire, the post actually ends up turning in the housing, breaking the small wire connection on the inside.
I fixed this once by opening it up and re-soldering the connection. But apparently it happened again when I removed the starter this time.
So, its out to garage I go to pull it back out and open it up. I'll try to fix again, but if I cant, then its to the auto parts store for a new starter.
I fixed this once by opening it up and re-soldering the connection. But apparently it happened again when I removed the starter this time.
So, its out to garage I go to pull it back out and open it up. I'll try to fix again, but if I cant, then its to the auto parts store for a new starter.
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Got the starter fixed, put exhaust back on, filled the tranny and fired it up. It's still up on stands, but seems to go through the gears fine so guess I got the tranny back together correctly....lol. sometime in the next couple days I'll have it back on the ground and ready for a test drive, including overdrive.
Pics or it didn't happen
Got some more work on the heads after work. Finished the gasket matching, cleaned out some of the casting boogers in the runners, rounded out some gouging in the chambers and more casting flash on the outside.
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
This afternoon I reinstalled the differential and axles in the Dart and immediately put the gear oil and additive in... Not going to make another $700 mistake! It took a very long time to pump it in (85W-140 gear oil is thick as honey when the temp is in the 30's). Then I put the brake drums and tires back on, adjusted the brakes, and re-torqued the leaf spring brackets. By then my feet were half-frozen and it had snowed a couple of inches of big wet flakes outside. But my body stayed warm with a hoodie under my coveralls
It took a very long time to pump it in (85W-140 gear oil is thick as honey when the temp is in the 30's). Then I put the brake drums and tires back on, adjusted the brakes, and re-torqued the leaf spring brackets. By then my feet were half-frozen and it had snowed a couple of inches of big wet flakes outside. But my body stayed warm with a hoodie under my coveralls
I went to the local YOU PULL IT yard and ran across these 2 relics . I pulled a few parts off the Valiant to save from the crusher. IT still has good doors, tail lights , but they have been painted black, and it has a decent rear seat back in tan, and decent drip rail trim.
The aspen still has the front disc set up and a big bolt pattern 7 1/4 rear end. Anyone know if that is worth my time to pull off and what all I would have to get from the front of the aspen for the brakes?
The aspen still has the front disc set up and a big bolt pattern 7 1/4 rear end. Anyone know if that is worth my time to pull off and what all I would have to get from the front of the aspen for the brakes?
dicksmidlac
Well-Known Member
Took the rotors back off and painted them and also removed lower arms for stiffening plates.Gonn use the proforged bushings and greasable pins.Now I'd like to cut out the crash beams in my doors.Looks like you gotta cut them up in 4 sections to get them out.Anybody done this?
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