Why is it so hard to get good advice !!???

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I tossed the packaging. I'll go grab it and report the numbers it has on it.
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I am back. On the side of the tray that faces the crank, there is a triangle with a MSI in it. Below that is a #7774 Made In USA. The Jegs part number of 52001 or whatever it is isn't on it.
 
Oh Franken, you are Gregory C. who originally started this question on the B-Body forum. I advised you to get a bigger camshaft from my first post which seems like forever ago on your first topic thread. Happy you finally took some advice and it is working out for you! Don't know why you didn't go with the .590MP solid camshaft. I have around two thousand street miles on mine with no issues. Very similar specs and lift would still be right under .600 after valve lash with 1.6's and duration is 272* @ .050. It's pretty timid in a 440 with a 4-speed. Would be cake in an auto 500 cube stroker with a 3500+ stall.
 
Mine is Jegs number 502000 and says specifically on the box "for 3.75 stroke".
 
Sweet5ltr said:
Oh Franken, you are Gregory C. who originally started this question on the B-Body forum. I advised you to get a bigger camshaft from my first post which seems like forever ago. Don't know why you didn't go with the .590MP solid camshaft. I have around two thousand street miles on mine with no issues. Very similar specs and lift would still be right under .600 after valve lash with 1.6's and duration is 272* @ .050. It's pretty timid in a 440 with a 4-speed. Would be cake in an auto 500 cube stroker with a 3500+ stall.
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I remember that suggestion. I was worried about being beyond the limits of my springs. The lash at 1.6 ratio put me at .629 minus lash. I recall the lash was .025 ? This seemed too close for me.
My converter is a 9 3/4" unit rated at 3000 stall.


My Jegs windage tray may be the right part number, it may not. Either way, it does not fit and I can't use it.
 
LOL. Well, if you have a deep pan, the need for a windage tray is diminished a good bit. Although I am sure, as usual, someone will be along to argue that one, too.
 
Technically, the pan I'm going to use is the same 5 1/8" depth, just has a longer sump. It has a small baffle toward the front and another toward the rear. I like to turn corners more than anything, so a windage tray should help help control the side to side oil flow.
 
Frankenduster said:
I remember that suggestion. I was worried about being beyond the limits of my springs. The lash at 1.6 ratio put me at .629 minus lash. I recall the lash was .025 ? This seemed too close for me.
My converter is a 9 3/4" unit rated at 3000 stall.


My Jegs windage tray may be the right part number, it may not. Either way, it does not fit and I can't use it.
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Oh yeah, I was also the one who suggested ductile Iron rockers.. Man, you could have saved some bucks! $199 cam and lifter kit, $200-$250 set of indestructible ductile iron rocker arms.. Could have found some correct valve springs and a used good 4k stall converter with all the nickels and dimes left over! lol But I'm happy you got everything set up right and hopefully your problems with pump gas will be in the past.. :burnout:
 
RustyRatRod said:
LOL. Well, if you have a deep pan, the need for a windage tray is diminished a good bit. Although I am sure, as usual, someone will be along to argue that one, too.
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Rusty, didn't Mopar Muscle have an article on this? Their was very little gains to be seen with a windage tray over no windage tray. Not enough to lose sleep over, I believe 5-8hp.
 
Sweet5ltr said:
Oh yeah, I was also the one who suggested ductile Iron rockers.. Man, you could have saved some bucks! $199 cam and lifter kit, $200-$250 set of indestructible ductile iron rocker arms.. :burnout:
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Who makes a $250 set of those iron rocker arms?
 
Sweet5ltr said:
Rusty, didn't Mopar Muscle have an article on this? Their was very little gains to be seen with a windage tray over no windage tray. Not enough to lose sleep over, I believe 5-8hp.
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I think that's correct. Although every time I bring it up I get the beat down so I just shut up about it.
 
For the people who say can't on pump gas I am 11.89 to 1 "static" and I crank at only 170 with crap "quench" my best pass ever is on 100% 93 out of the local pumps!!!! Probably why I'm slow. I feel I'm leaving some on the table but I am setup for nitrous.
 
-Sledgehammer- said:
For the people who say can't on pump gas I am 11.89 to 1 "static" and I crank at only 170 with crap "quench" my best pass ever is on 100% 93 out of the local pumps!!!! Probably why I'm slow. I feel I'm leaving some on the table but I am setup for nitrous.
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Exactly. Those who say "cannot" have never done it. Consider it their loss and save your breath and move on. That's what I've finally decided to do. You can talk until you are blue in the face, but some people will never get it.
 
I called the guys at Jegs.
What a surprise. They were friendly and apologetic about the windage tray. They think it was probably an issue where a part was put in the wrong box. I've seen this happen. the BOX has the right part number on it, but the part inside isn't correct. Hard to blame the people pulling parts from stock. My guess is that the blame lies with an outside vendor.
Jegs offerered to pay return shipping and give a full refund. I told them that I made a small cut in the windage tray to try to clear the Milodon pickup tube, but they said that they'd still refund the price. They felt that since the wrong part was shipped, they are willing to overlook the practice of NOT accepting modified parts in return.
This is nice to see and I will surely order from them again.
 
Here's mine. See if this helps.
 

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That looks like 1 1/4" clearance from the sealing surface to the backside.
MINE is exactly the same. We have the evidence. The wrong windage tray was shipped! Knowing this, I would think that this one should work on any stock stroke big block. Mine having .400 more stroke would need to be about 1/4" deeper at a minimum.

I went ahead and put the MP steel windage tray back in. I also put in the Milodon 6 quart oil pan. The area of the pan belhind the sump near the bellhousing is actually shallower on the Milodon pan. The chrome pan had small creases in it from the center link hitting it. At rest, the center link used to have about 3/16" of clearance with the chrome pan. I guess the crease was the result of some steering deflection or a pothole in the road. The Milodon pan clears the steering by almost 3/4 inch. SCORE!
I'd still like to try the correct Jegs windage someday, especially if the cork gaskets I used start to leak. I like the idea of a reusable "gasket" even though I dont pull the oil pan very often. Its more of a matter of stopping LEAKS! Also, I poured in 5 quarts of Joe Gibbs break in oil and a bottle of Comp Cams break in supplement. The stick read a quart low afterwards, right about where it should be. Before i put the pan on, I noticed that the dipstick end rests just above the head of the oil pickup.

Next up is resetting the valve lash. Maybe I am being paranoid, but I would feel like a complete *** if I spent all this time and effort, asked advice and pestered every Mopar guy in the Northern hemisphere ONLY to skip this simple thing and wipe the cam.
 
You won't wipe it. You've been too smart and careful. My God, you spend WEEKS askin questions before you finally decided on the cam change. It's obvious that you don't jump into things. It's gonna be fine.
 
How about that windage tray though?
Did yours come in a box along with other parts? I cant remember if mine was packaged separately within the shipment that also included the oil pan and pickup.
 
Frankenduster said:
How about that windage tray though?
Did yours come in a box along with other parts? I cant remember if mine was packaged separately within the shipment that also included the oil pan and pickup.
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No it was a lone part I ordered from Jegs. I rarely buy from Jegs. I have nothing against them. Summit just beats their prices even counting the fact that I have to pay taxes in Georgia, since Summit has a store about 60 miles away. Plus, that windage tray is a Jegs exclusive. No one else has it.
 
Frankenduster said:
Slow....?
Compared to what???
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Slow for my own opinion meaning I have more left in it the way it sits. My best pass is only a 1.44 60ft and have limited tuning so far with suspension and carb etc... but I work as much as possible first and foremost. My cylinder pressures are low and "quench" is a little loose at .051 but i was gonna spray it when suspension dialed in... I can up the cylinder pressures and make more power yet. When weather gets cooler and the DA drops cylinders pressures go up and some guys start to ping just something to consider. With the cam in car now I wouldn't be afraid to try 12.5 "static" on local 93. In Denver I'd try higher :0)
 
A 1.44 60 FT ain't slow ya dingbat. lol
 
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