Recent content by MidTexCuda

from the port size it looks like it will be for a B1 MO head. Sad part is the width of the port will not allow it to be used on anything else.

how much power? I would not buy cheap axles. I would also not buy 5.50 because most people run 5.0 and selling them may be hard.

if it is a drag car with small front tires put the proportioning valve on the front brake line

i have had great luck with their quality. I will be getting that same piece soon because they are the only ones that make it. I like how the molded most of the grill and that it is for a 67,68 and not just for a 69 like others

take a wire wheel and clean the area to really see what you have and re post pics. With the rust on it its hard to tell and you still dont have a clear picture of how bad it is. If it is real bad I would replace it with a clip from a donor or.....Seriously look into a front clip with a mustang...

just weld the up. and add a patch plate if needed.

no you dont want to cut into the front frame rails. they are two piece ( a bent channel and a pop riveted top) there is no boxing needed. You run your sub frame from the back clip to the front

This is all you need

just run front bars. they run from the front of the cage (by the dash bar) to the top of the frame. have them tie into what ever you plan to run shock or strut tower wise and you are done. then if you want to add the inner finders back it you can reuse them, make new ones, or not run them

if it was mine and i was going to do a frame drag only car i would remove the floor and everything circled in red. Use a strut or a-arm front end and junk the rest. Maybe save the stuff in green but only for reference or to make new pieces.

Russ is a douche bag. Sucks that he own INDY products and has such a big chunk of the market

I would not reuse the stock rails. Buy an premade frame. Don't buy the cheap coil overs that are a shock with springs slid over them. spend the extra money and get a four link not the ladder bars, and get the housing back braced now.

I dont think you need a spring for fiberglass doors. They are so light and fragile i wouldnt want springs on them. I have mine on stock hinges with a roll pin and it works ok but i will be changing it to a lift off style soon.

are they the CNC versions?

oh ok that makes more sense