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Doug's has one set (453) that fit 90% of the Mopars 67 up, but not the early years. I bet someone here may swap you a set.

The slipping impellor deal can be checked by pulling off the by-pass hose off the timing cover and slide a tool with a bent end as in pic, you can hook, or jamb the impellor to check if it's secure to the shaft. As mentioned, the rad is shedding enuff, if it were mine, put the cap on, tape over...

Funny how all IKEA assembly don't use one word, iirc.

^^^^^^^^ what he said. Pull the plugs, keep them in order, give us a pic. Cheers.

Leave them sticking out as far as looks good. Those little black rust pits that form on the chrome bumpers is from the exhaust.

I would also like to suggest you not overlook a local auto upholstery shop (after research), as I have had a few seats repaired where a seam split, or the material got "hard", and replaced the "bum" section only, with surprisingly similar grain material. Depends on the quantity of the repair...

For decades Legendary Auto Upholstery seems the best quality, with fewest complaints, from my personal use in 4 vehicles, all Darts, and being able to compare another, cheaper manufacturer, side by side, - and the quality difference was night and day. The cheaper manufacturer "stitching " was...

4speed has it right. Appears one grounded field, needs early regulator .

Perhaps consider a manual shift auto. Mine started new as a 4 speed, got tired of changing syncros, (racing), went manual shift auto, - less breakage, more hardware, almost as much fun as a 4 gears when combined with line-lock. Back to 4 speed now, and just broke my left foot, chit ! lol Very...

I can explain, as it was to me, why some wrong boxing happens. All the parts end up on the counter, using whatever fits, then someone puts any part in the most expensive boxes, and returns them for credit. Wrong part to you/us, ripped off price for parts store. Boosted price to the customer...

Lotta "left" thread bolts there. Check the bolt heads for "L". The ring gear and carrier case bolts are L, iirc.

I used to be called to the phone every 5 mins, by the " Mrs Jones etc." that insisted they ask me if their car is ready, or how much$. Stuff they could a asked the person that answered the phone. Ever try to overhaul one of those million piece Jap carbs while being interrupted every 5 mins. When...

I have 3 sleeves, done at different times over the years, ran 12.5 compression for years. I wouldn't have a #s matching car cept for sleeves .

On one of those trips, if you shoot the rad imput/output temps when hot, and we know the new rad is doing its job of shedding 50*ish, then we can eliminate that and try other stuff. If the rad is 180* ish at the top, and 170+*ish out the bottom, that would be a problem. The blow back is kinda...

Is the engine in the right place. Commonest problem is folks don't read the instructions about where the engine is supposed to sit . 1 1/2 inche's to the passenger side, often requiring new, not soggy mounts, and sometimes the pick-up mounts that are a little taller. There are several threads...

I've successfully used the ratchet strap a number of times. The thicker 80's pick-up/van mounts help. And shifting the trans mount may help . Cheers

Turn the key on, don't start Pass a piece of ferrous metal in front of alt, - if magnetism strongly sucks the metal to the alternator pulley, the regulator is working. So is the rotor, brushes, field wire connections. If it's not putting out decent voltage, (should be 13.8 to 14.2 vdc) Problem...

Spent a lotta time sailing outta the British Virgin Islands. Not sure you can get there without a US stop.

A short audio/video demonstrating the vibration different conditions can be a great help to us Cheers

What he said, - but I have border issues sending chit back, so generally I just swallow it .

Really luv the 62s, thnx for pix

Back the four firewall bolts off a coupla turns, so the m/c is kinda loose. Try the pedal. I've had the pushrod to pedal bolt bind. It's a special shouldered bolt, and the whole pushrod/pedal thing has to pivot freely.

When hot. Would you pls supply the Temperature from top and bottom rad hose fittings, not the hoses . Where's timing set? - pls don't say "it's good". tia

I found I couldn't get a true flat piece of .5 stock without machining it down to .499. Just a heads up, that was waaay back then.

Make sure the idle bleeds are clear .

In my original post, I placed a decimal wrong. The small piece of steel is exactly 0.500" (1/2") thick . I have edited that post. Sorry for any inconvenience, eh . . Cheers

As Rusty mentioned, 3 thou can move the pattern/contact quite a bit .

Not sure I can answer that, 1968, my mentor taught me adding according to the few thou etched in the pinion, ( ala L023M8B post) - then we moved to universal shop, and all the aftermarket gears came with depth from center, made the tool to work on all.

That works great till you get an aftermarket pinion, they measure by actual depth. I copied the dealership tool, and made the carrier bearing sizes in chev, Ford, Dana, so it works on all diffs, including Toyota. The small square flat piece is exactly 0.500" (1/2") to transfer the end of the...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/wheel-base-difference-side-to-side.338172/#post-1971103530 Member @Treblig post . Your wheelbase may vary . Cheers