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and with a permanent squint maybe?

you should be very proud of that :thumbsup:

you answered your own question there..... 340 4 speed but keep everything you remove (if you have room). you can always add a 4" stroker kit to the 318 (392 ish) and refit it later for a numbers matching look. neil.

i get it, you had to turn off the cloaking device :lol:

or just fit an early water pump and hose. the pump outlet is driver side same as your radiator. no hinky hoses to worry about flapping against the damper/pulleys or worse the fan blade.

the early pump is a direct swap to the later timing cover. see my post #349 above :thumbsup:

can you see any pics yet or are you using your crystal ball? :rofl: i can't see anything?

i had that bottom hose issue with my valiant. i simply fitted an early water pump and hose. the timing marks are obscured by the pump outlet but the early timing tab is held in place by the 2 lower pump bolts and my damper had both early and late tdc marks to suit either setup so that was that...

sounds like your buddy needed more convertor.

most here know someone like that, here's a clue '... the minivan man' :rofl:

is that due to worrying over the cost of headers that actually fit (tti for example) lol.

yeah, but your charger's so much cooler :thumbsup:

he says he's using a 5.2 magnum not a 440. the a904 should be fine with that. :thumbsup:

you can imagine the gm design meeting where one of them started with ''what if we....'' :rofl:

agreed, the head gasket face is not 90 degrees to the bore on those. :thumbsup:

i'd fit and use them as is, swapping left to right. then you have time to source a replacement for the worn one but still drive in comfort while you look. the drivers are usually the most worn but a pair of pass' seats isn't an issue if it gives you a good pair. neil.

re the gasket.... if you remove, reseal and refit one stud at a time it'll be fine with no need for replacement. neil.

the longer they delay, the more interest 'your' money earns in their account. unfortunately it seems common these days, you pay and the money's gone immediately. but you need a refund and it's minimum 3-5 working days. and as in your case a few weeks before they contact you and then you have to...

swapping to 20/50 as suggested is the easiest/cheapest thing to try before digging into the motor itself.

if it's only $50 and roadside replacement parts worries you buy 2 and carry the spare with you. :thumbsup:

looks good with the vinyl roof and better without the mustang hood scoop too :thumbsup:

try telling that to dan the man...... please, try :BangHead: :rofl:

if that's the worst that happens consider yourself lucky, lol. neil

screws have the thread cut/rolled right up to the head, bolts have an unthreaded section between the head and the thread. so they are head 'bolts'. you never see them fully threaded as that would cost the factory more money/time.

and used a bunch more fuel all summer too :lol:

the chain has to have stretched a lot to jump teeth, if it's not stretched ie correct tension it can't jump. now installed a tooth out? that's entirely possible, lol.

i wonder how long this latest 'dan thread' will last and how far off topic it'll end up? just like all his others, lol. :BangHead: neil.

you could use a remote mounted servo, it could go anywhere there's room even under the dash in the car. if you master cylinder is dual circuit then either 2 remote servos or one of the double ended dual remote ones. neil.

it has 318 in the thread title, that always starts a bun fight :rofl:

phew :thumbsup: