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That's a really good question ; @ first I figured, just get the filter that has the best filtration level (lowest/smallest micron particle rating) , but that then may also restrict flow volume...? Then comes in the advertised additives released by the filter...are they needed, will they help or...

I can't, my numbers only go up to '78 on blocks. Casting #'s listed only have 7 digits. Maybe separate your numbers to help clarify IE: 5-30069213-360. For a bump.

So far..."J" heads rule.

For one the "J" heads are more abundant, yes you can open to 2.02". Depending on the year of the "J" head, they may not require hardened seats, as they were used on 360's in the late '70's. I personally prefer "J's" over "X" heads, they were designed for the T/A's.

Few '70's with "X" heads, "X" were for '68/'69 mostly, then some "O"...The "J" heads (915 casting) came out in late '69, for '70 production year, was designed mostly for the T/A application then but eventually (with a small shift "pushrod") ended up being the most produced casting "915" in the...

The best 340 specs, were for late '71, high comp,forged steel crank, "J" heads with 2.02" valve and electronic ignition. The worst part of factory engines, is as stated earlier, pistons were heavy, and balancing man that was a crap shoot. 'Cuz they sure weren't balanced when they were built...

Kinda hard to diagnose a bog, over the internet. But in many cases, the secondaries are fully opened to early. Could be your timing, or the secondary adjustment. Many questions...cam? stock engine/build? Ignition, MSD...? Throwing this at you, so someone can help, and will likely ask these...

Vacuum secondaries?

340- should be cast in the side. Casting #'s for 340 blocks are 2780930-340 for '68-'73. Casting dates of late '67 also. The TA340 block # 3577130TA-340. I don't have the number you have listed, my best guess is it's newer then '73.

I've never used it, but I have heard only good things about it. It comes recommended by many companies like Hughes... Asking a question like that, in a forum like this is certainly the best way to get a good answer. I wanted to subscribe to this thread, as I'm also curious.

I mix and match the kits, some have better intake gaskets, some have better oil pan gaskets. I haven't come across the perfect kit yet. FelPro and MP kits are good ones for the engine. For the body gasket kit (door handles, wiper motor, master cylinder...), I'd go with DMT kit.

Your engine block casting number is in fact correct for a '64-'66, 273CI. There's a casting date on it somewhere also, don't know where on the early LA's it is exactly. Here's a '68 340 block pic for reference...

You will not find a VIN stamped on the block or trans. VIN stamping of engines and trans started in 1968. The best you can do, is find the cast date of the engine, it's generally cast approx. 60-90 days prior the vehicle, depending on how popular the drivetrain is.

Yes, that's neutral, note the drill bit in the shifter.

Done, try it now.

Oops, sorry man. I'll unlock it, give me 5.

Since you asked so nicely http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa59/340butterduster/Transmission%20rebuild/?start=0 Good luck! PS, use a 3/16"(?) drill bit, not positive on size thru all levers in the shifter to start.

Unfortunately you can not tell by the forging number on the block wether or not it's a 2bbl or 4bbl, that I'm aware of.

The VIN will be stamped only if it's a late build '67, the VIN stamping of the blocks and trans. officially started in the '68 model year.

I've heard many different responses to the dash number. One being it was a revision so therefore up a dash number, another was repairs (shifted...)Having made molds myself for the automotive industry, in the past. The molds were numbered by cavity numbers, as they are typically more then one...

Way too funny.

I would for sure Magnaflux the area, as likely the crack is longer then what you are seeing.

My .02 on this subject... If you are going to use as cast combustion chamber, or runners/ports (who knows how much variance, from chamber to chamber), as opposed to CNC'd heads, were you have a definate compression ratio and real (equal) flow numbers, from all 8 cylinders. Otherwise it's a...

Very good explanation, simple and not too many details.:supz:

In short, what he said, 318 and 340's shared the same crank (dimensionally speaking), but I'd go a little safer on the rods and forged pistons.

3/4" dia. for the ID of bushing, a 7/8" tap might work. Great idea!.

You need a special tool, I was lucky and borrowed one from work. http://www.toolsource.com/pilot-bearing-puller-p-62730.html Other places carry them, link is only for reference.

That is an LA head, '915 casting, some had "X" some had "O" some are "J" also some "U" (i believe). with 2.02" valves. Used on 340's and 360's. Hope this helps.

I've used them also, on a standard steering and 4 speed, they go in reasonably well, all things considered. They do hang low and the ctr link in there, needs a bit of extra clearance for the stud to clear (file a few threads down, as opposed to dinging the pipes). Mine were ceramic coated, and...

Must be newer then '74, sorry I don't have listing. Good luck.