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Depending on the color a quart of Dupont Nason single stage will probably run $60-$80 or so. Been a big price increase in the past year. If you use that you will need some activator and urethane grade reducer also. Probably be in the $100-$120 range total. Dallas

Not quite sure what you mean by 'removed the through bolts' but you have to take the nuts off the bolt that goes through the bracket, take the bracket off, then remove the second pair of nuts that are under the trunk skin. If you've done this, and unscrewed the bolts out of the pedestal it...

Do you know what his seller id is? I did a search and couldn't find it. Thanks, Dallas

I need the plastic guide that fastens onto the door glass and slides in the front track by the vent window. Anyone know a source that sells these? TIA, Dallas

The clips along the bottom don't actually fit flush with the cowl, they stick up above it just a bit. I just noticed this Friday when I installed a windshield in a '70 Dart. It doesn't make sense but I guess it has to do with the angle of the stainless molding when installed. It goes on pretty...

Thanks Rocky_JS. I thought I had specified Swinger hardtop in my question (23) but I left that out. :oops: I thought they should be the same but I didn't know for sure. Thanks for your help. Dallas

I can't believe no one knows this. Bumping up for the weekend. TIA, Dallas

A guy called me today with a question, and I don't know the answer, but I bet someone here does. On Darts, do '67-'72 models use the same vent window seal? The guy was wanting to buy some but the listing just said '67-'69 and the seller didn't know if they would fit his '71. Thanks for...

Reminds me of my brother-in-law's Isuzu P'up that also leaves a puddle wherever he parks it. He says it's just marking it's territory! LOL Dallas BTW, back on topic-very nice work on the grille. I like original ideas.

You went to about 1000 times more work than the factory did. LOL Good job! Dallas

I've done it many times. I use Dupont vinyl paint. It can be mixed in low, medium, or high gloss. It is mixed with a vinyl resin instead of balancer/binder, and the type of resin determines the amount of gloss. The next time I do one I am going to have it mixed with 50/50 high gloss and medium...

Another tip; use BUTYL sealer, NOT urethane! Butyl stays flexible, urethane gets too hard. My experience has been that they will leak, even with a new gasket, unless you use sealer. I put it between the gasket and pinchweld, as well as between the glass and gasket. Dallas

I've used the SEM Hot Rod Black a few times. I bought it in a kit which came with a quart of paint and the proper amount of reducer and activator. I think the last time I bought it the price was about $60 for a kit. One kit will do a hood. Below is a pic of an old truck I shot with it. Hot...

At the quarter/roof joint, the factory used lead on vehicles with painted tops, and some type of 'bondo' on cars that were to get vinyl tops. I use a fiberglass reinforced waterproof filler such as 'Duraglas', then finish with conventional filler. IIRC the drip rail has a lip on it that is...

I never realized until this thread popped back up that I didn't answer this question. Somehow I missed it at the time. Anyway, I actually didn't have the 'proper' materials to replicate it (body schutz, as breakstuff mentioned above), and the customer really didn't care if it had anything on it...

EPDM is primer, so it definately should be painted or powdercoated. Powdercoating would hold up the best if properly prepped. Dallas

Well, I bought the Steele even though it was more expensive. I put in in today and it is a nice part, very flexible and easy to work with. Thanks, Dallas

Replacing the back glass seal on a Scamp. Trying to decide whether to go with a Precision brand or Steele Rubber Products brand. Has anyone had any experience with either brand? Here is the Steele brand...

Good luck. Don't forget to check the top of the glovebox. Dallas

BTW, the car that broadcast sheet came out of is F4. Sorry I don't have a pic of the complete car but here's an engine shot. Car is a '70 Valiant. Dallas

Here's a good place to look also. Dallas

I believe the marker holes are the only difference. Dallas

What code is on your fender tag? Dallas

Awww, shucks :-k, careful, you'll give me a reputation I'll have to live up to! :D Dallas

Wet sand with 400, prime if you cut through, sand with 600 wet, then paint with SEM Hot Rod Black or equivalent. Dallas

If you can't fab what you need a salvage yard piece will be the way to go. Dallas

The worst part of the job is getting the spot welds drilled out. That takes quite awhile. Welding it all back together can be accomplished in an evening. I'm of the same opinion as you on saving the car. I really hate to see a fairly rare savable car parted and destroyed. Maybe you can do...

My stud gun that welds the nails on to pull dents has an adapter for this and at one time I had some of the studs. I never used them as you have to grind a large enough area for the gun to ground and also the heat could warp a roof panel. I always used small screws to fasten the moulding clips...

I agree 100%. After you strip out the blue car measure everything to get your reference points, then drill the spot wells out and remove the entire front clip in one piece. This makes it very easy to put in the other car correctly. You just have to make sure it is square and 'level' (nose not...

Could 'uof' be 'udf' instead? 'Udf' is 'upper door frame' which is the area on the interior of the door between the glass and the door panel. If so, then the exterior is 'medium green' and the interior upper door frames are a darker green. Dallas