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I think the wire helps to transmit the signal to the Aliens, So they can enjoy seeing a few Kool Mopars..........:thumbsup:

Yup...Not even Rani.......:rofl:

To each, his own.......

You will obviously need to add a brake booster and possibly a new master cylinder to effect, power brakes. The Ram Man is an expert in this endeavor. Home As far as steering, you can use a different Mopar steering box, or go to Borgeson.

I usually paint the body with cast blast, then use a gold irritate paint on the top to simulate cadmium, But I always use dot5 / silicone fluid in my hot rods, so no issue with it getting on paint.

Welcome to the Madness !!

I'm using a 1 1/32 stock non power disc MC from a 73 Dart. Haven't driven it much yet, but seems great just movin the car around here..

I used a stock 73 Dart manual disc/drum unit on my 68 GTS. Bore size 1 1/32 . I like the way it feels.

Here.. 10 x 2 1/2 but same basic set up.

Uh Oh... ( guy with 30yrs parts experience ) :lol:

One thing you can do with the standard lines is spray them with Clear Acrylic Paint like I did. My car won't see bad weather either, but the appearance should hold up good.

I usually paint new ones semi gloss black

I've had the same KD Tool flaring set in my box for 40 years. Still works like new. Make sure to get a good bending tool for tight turns. Most aftermarket lines, either straight or in a roll have a higher soft metal content and are easy to bend by hand, exempt for very tight bends. I often will...

Nope. They actually had the inverted line threads cut into the engine side of the cylinder bore. I got one here, rebuilt in a box for him. I PM'd him , so I can send him pics.

Many of the Big Block B body cars had the line outlets on the engine side. And I know this because my 383 4spd RR was that way. I have an extra master cyl from that build left over. I will PM you.

I'm making the same brake change on my GTS. Just looked at it and see the same thing you are talking about. I have a paint gasket kit laying around here. I just looked and I have what looks to be the thin paper gasket for the drum application with the oval cut in it. It covers outside the oval...

Just add a little to this thread. I just upgraded a 68 GTS to the 73 and up disc system. I had some 14in stock steel wheels from a 68 Satellite project with big bolt pattern sitting around. I was just going to use these wheels as rollers until I get the Cragars for it.I found out that these...

Open the bleed valve, push the shoes back, close the bleed valve. Check everything, install drums. Bleed brakes to release any air.

I bought them in Centrix (drilled and slotted ) from Rock Auto for my GTS project. Pretty reasonable too

Sure you can. The brakes will actually get better air. But...... they will be more exposed to grit and grime from the road and also rain and snow.

The factory size should have been 3/16, and yes they should be 3/8x 24 thread. See if you can find a 3/8 fine nut somewhere and see if it fits the line end.

I don't think you need that small clip. I've sold thousands of those brake pad sets, and don't ever remember seeing that one. Sometimes manufactures add clips for an array of applications. To me, It looks like a metal inspection hole cover, like you would see on a rear backing plate. I doubt if...

Nope, no Genius, Was in the Parts business as a store owner for 30 yrs !!

Those spring clips clip on to the backside of the piston side pad. It looks like your piston side pad is the one with the bigger ears. The clip will snap on the rear of that pad at a 90 deg angle or perpendicular to the brake surface. Then when you install that pad, the part of the spring clip...

Good, Glad to hear that !!

You mean the " POP " valve ? LOL

Check the inside of the drum all the way out by the diff side to see how much rust has built up over the years. Many times you have to knock that high spot down in order to get them on new shoes. I have used a whizz wheel, cup wire brush in a drill, Etc.

I often go to the Rock Auto site to get information. You can check different application, Up a year , down a year and such. They always have good descriptions and pics of their parts. And part numbers from several manufacturers. I just find the part number I need and give it to my parts...

Yup !!

You should have to press/drive the seal into the rotor after the inner bearing is greased and installed. There are seal driving tools to do this, but you can use a block of wood and a hammer to do it as well. sounds like you may not have the correct seal.