Search results for query: *

the 2 on the rear are threaded pipe plugs thats why there is only 2 in the kit.

that is freakin funny right there!!!!!

BTW thanks for you guy's input.

I found an old LD340, and I think that it's the one for the job..... I think. I've always preferred a dual plane for manual trans apps. I run an Offy 360 on my automatic car though. dual planes are good for bottom end torque. that is the main necessity for a manual......I think.

give up your suggestions.

don't forget the plugs in the other end also.

I stand corrected. cast cranks were "Detroit" ballanced. but I would ballance the entire rotating assembly on any conglomeration of aftermarket parts.

all 340's were internally ballanced . if youre using a ballanced rotating assembly, it is by definition "internally ballanced"

don't forget to see that the port plug is in the lifter passage at the rear, right above the distributor drive gear. remove the dist. and look in the hole.put your finger or a mirror in thr hole and look for the plug. i forgot this pipe plug on a 360 once 20 years ago and it drove me nuts trying...

don't forget your t/c

i made mine out of an old spark plug with the porcelain broke out of it. i then tapped 3/8" threads into the inside of it and used a piece of allthread to run into the cylinder. just be careful not to jam it too hard. when the piston hits the stop, well, stop. i made this tool for degreeing in a...

seems to me the slotted end of the shaft goes to the right hand end of the head and oil holes down.

necessity is the mother of invention.

la motor is la motor is la motor.

what thermostat temp is it running? is the coolant level correct? is the belt on it? is the radiator clear inside? is the pump leaking out of the weep hole? what was the outdoor temperature? were you flogging it? was the transmission overheating? did i welcome you to the site? doyou wear...

if you have a wet gauge, it could have air in the line. if it has a sending unit, it could be bad, but not likely. as long as you have over 25 lbs. it should be fine. low oil level will let it drain the pan(not completely usually) and loose pressure. p/d pumps will cavitate if starved. but, not...

too bad you didn't get a compression check before you pulled it down. if this thing was a running motor i'd have to agree with the guys on this one. at least pull a rod and main cap and look at it first. chances are good that you are gonna be at stock bearing sizes, and they ain't that...

what all did you do to the motor? it may be a vacuum leak? tell us more.

if all that you were doing was chasing the threads, and it broke, it was probably already broke anyway. unless you have galled it, or tightened it into the bottom of the hole, it should come right out.

i prefer stock myself. i have never had a problem with them that i didn' bring on myself. over rev, under lube, you know, dumb s&#t.

5 to 8 % for me too. especially if i use an extension.

you go johnnydart.i was thinking the same thing. also are you sure that you have eliminated ALL of your vacuum problems(leaks)?

there are flex plates that you can buy for after market t/q's

duh

i mean torque converter.

in all the years i've been doing this i've never seen a balanced flex plate. the weights were on the balancer.

as is mine. to the rear and slightly down.the angle is a relative kind of thing. just make sure that you can get at the filter. good luck.

mmmore ccccoffffeeeee forrrrrrrr meeeeeeeee pleeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

amen.

fram shorty for me. on a 90 degree adaptor. no header issues either.