174/177 supercharged small block, where to start?

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The seller Purplemilopuppy has yet to receive feedback on the transaction.

Sometimes the sale falls thru, you can check "other items for sale by Purplemilopuppy" to see if it gets relisted.

Thats ebag and non-paying bidders for you...
 
Well, he said he sold it...and i cant find it anywhere...but I was able to finally get this kit. I found it from a guy in michigan. he was kind enough to hold it for me while i saved some cash for it....Completely new...everything is NOS never used. B&M 162ci blower kit for small chrysler.

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I love your belated birthday present!(lol)Serious as hell ,nice find.
 
I started to do some minor mock up today starting with the pulleys. Because I have an aftermarket set of billet aluminum pulleys, I needed to machine the center register on my crank pulley roughly .010" of an inch for it to fit over the center register of the blower pulley spacer. Luckily, my girlfriends brother is a machinist, and has a lathe in his garage. :)

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Here you can see the center register does not fit inside the crank pulley.

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So on the lathe it goes.

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Now it all fits together nicely.

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Here it is bolted on:

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Now the next problem. In the already very tight engine compartment, my mechanical clutch fan blades hits the blower pulley! LOL

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This shows you I cannot space my fan out any further, as I am already dangerously close to the aftermarket aluminum radiator.

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SO.....I guess my current plan is to switch to a dual electric fan setup, which will be out of the way of the blower pulley....I will update the thread when i figure that out and get some fans mounted....

...whenever the hell that'll be....lol
 
Your snout is 10.75" long?

You can get a shorter one and that will bring your lower pulley closer to the engine. The further away the pulley is, the more stress will be put on your crankshaft.

IDK, the snout with shaft is around $400 and the elect fans will be pricey too.
 
Your snout is 10.75" long?

You can get a shorter one and that will bring your lower pulley closer to the engine. The further away the pulley is, the more stress will be put on your crankshaft.

IDK, the snout with shaft is around $400 and the elect fans will be pricey too.

Yes. Just measured. Length of the snout is 10 3/4".

I COULD use the 9" long blower snout...

from summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-90884

More accurate description from Weiand site:
http://www.holley.com/90884.asp

My current drive coupler would be the same right? No need for a new one?
http://www.holley.com/7063.asp

That would be the easier way but possibly more expensive... just swap out the nose assembly, and mill the blower pulley spacer the appropriate amount...

HOWERVER, now that I think of it, I dont think I would be able to take that much more off of it, before the blower pulley hits the crank pulley. I could only mill about 3/4" off or so..not much more...

OR ditch my mech. fan and try to FIND AND FIT dual electric fans and figure a way to mount it to my aluminum rad.....I already have an aftermarket wire harness installed with a fan relay and power built in..I'd have to wire an automatic temperature switch as well.....what a PITA. lol
 
I thought Offy made an ugly box like intake for a 318 called a 360 dual port or something like that that looked like it could be milled for a rectangle plenum like the supercharger intakes, but I cant find a pic of a SB version. It was ugly, runners were straight in to a plenum with a single 4 mounted on top. Not good for NA but looked just like a supercharger intake with a 4bbl flange.
 
Ok, I got 5" from the front of the harmonic balancer to the front of the lower blower pulley. 6rib and due to different harmonic balancers, I will give you some more dimensions. I am running a 2 groove March aluminum crank pulley.

My snout is 9.75"

From the center of the front driverside intake manifold bolt to the front of the upper blower pulley, I have 8 1/8"

IDK, you might be able to open up the crank pulleys inside diameter and reduce the blower pulleys outside diameter to let them fit inside of eachother?
 
I'm Just wondering if you kept your Electric water pump and ran dual electric fans if you wouldn't have the clearance issues....I talked to Mezerie the other day after we P.M.'d and I feel confident I can run my electric water pump on the street and also keep my heater by running a heater hose line direct to the radiator low pressure side and the other to the intake manifold port. Heres a pic of what I'm researching to make work now....add a F.A.S.T EFI and keep it under the hood, It's a Mod-Man intake modified for a whipple system. I'll be watching to see that you come up with. Good Luck...
 

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Ok, I got 5" from the front of the harmonic balancer to the front of the lower blower pulley. 6rib and due to different harmonic balancers, I will give you some more dimensions. I am running a 2 groove March aluminum crank pulley.

My snout is 9.75"

From the center of the front driverside intake manifold bolt to the front of the upper blower pulley, I have 8 1/8"

IDK, you might be able to open up the crank pulleys inside diameter and reduce the blower pulleys outside diameter to let them fit inside of eachother?

Okay I measured mine, and I'm at 5 & 1/2" from the front of the balancer to the front of the blower drive pulley.

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I thought about reducing the blower pulley's outside diameter so it fits inside the crank pulley like you say...And that COULD in fact work....I think...

But before I start modifying this stuff, I'm gonna try a couple things first. I pulled my mechanical fan off, and started taking measurements to build a shroud, to use with electrics fans. Either ONE single large fan, or TWO smaller fans is what I have to work with. I have an Afco radiator that has a core width of 20" and core height of 17.5". So thats what the shroud needs to be to. From what I've read it's recommended to shroud the whole surface of the core for use of electric fans.

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3 1/4" from the water pump pulley bolts to the radiator.

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2 5/8" blower pulley to radiator. Really tight, I know. :/

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proto type shroud: LOL

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I'll need some pretty thin electric fans, But can get away with thicker ones if they are off set.

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I will try to find some fans that fit my needs. I'm probably making this part harder on myself. I should bolt on the shorter snout, cut down the blower pulley and spacer, and be done with it. LOL
 
I'm Just wondering if you kept your Electric water pump and ran dual electric fans if you wouldn't have the clearance issues....I talked to Mezerie the other day after we P.M.'d and I feel confident I can run my electric water pump on the street and also keep my heater by running a heater hose line direct to the radiator low pressure side and the other to the intake manifold port. Heres a pic of what I'm researching to make work now....add a F.A.S.T EFI and keep it under the hood, It's a Mod-Man intake modified for a whipple system. I'll be watching to see that you come up with. Good Luck...

That's a neat setup right there! I just got rid of my CSR electric water pump. I really don't know how they will hold up on the street! I hope you get yours going soon!
 
Heres a pic of what I'm researching to make work now....add a F.A.S.T EFI and keep it under the hood, It's a Mod-Man intake modified for a whipple system. I'll be watching to see that you come up with. Good Luck...

Nice!! How is the distributor clearance?
 
That's a neat setup right there! I just got rid of my CSR electric water pump. I really don't know how they will hold up on the street! I hope you get yours going soon!

This is a pic of a set up I found online (it's not mine)while doing some research on running a whipple on LA engines..it seems lots of R/T Dakota guys run this set up..I'm waiting to hear back from the shop that modify's the Mod Man intake for the Magnum engine to do a LA engine.

Nice!! How is the distributor clearance?

I would imagine fine since there designed for use with the magnum engine. Again not mine yet...I'm gathering all the data before I pull the trigger..plus my engine is at Compu-flow getting all the machine work done, I currently have Diamond racing pistons and have set the deck height to put me at 11 to 1 compression which I most likely change if I go this route, I have to see the total expense involved....I am guessing $7000.00 when its all said and done....I might need another Military deployment to swing that much coin.
 
That's a neat setup right there! I just got rid of my CSR electric water pump. I really don't know how they will hold up on the street! I hope you get yours going soon!

This is a pic of a set up I found online (it's not mine)while doing some research on running a whipple on LA engines..it seems lots of R/T Dakota guys run this set up..I'm waiting to hear back from the shop that modify's the Mod Man intake for the Magnum engine to do a LA engine.

Nice!! How is the distributor clearance?

I would imagine fine since there designed for use with the magnum engine. Again not mine yet...I'm gathering all the data before I pull the trigger..plus my engine is at Compu-flow getting all the machine work done, I currently have Diamond racing pistons and have set the deck height to put me at 11 to 1 compression which I most likely change if I go this route, I have to see the total expense involved....I am guessing $7000.00 when its all said and done....I might need another Military deployment to swing that much coin.
 
I'm thinking my electric fan/ shroud idea will not work...Im just looking at it with the blower belt on the crank pulley, and I'm holding the belt where the top blower pulley will be....It's sure gonna be very tight..May have to trim my mock up shroud 3/8"...if that'll even help.
 
Im sure your machinist friend could shorten your snout. The seal surface and bearing surface would have to be machined in. And the shaft can be cut down, keyway added and rethreaded. Im not sure how the bearing gets retained, maybe a snap ring? Pull the snout apart and check it out.
 
Badass James. You have to take me on a ride in that thing when it is done. What about e fans from behind the grill?
 
I think I am only limited to this fan here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-19120/overview/

I THINK I can run 2 of those with that shroud I was talking about if I make it...

Those fans put out 2350 CFM each, at 7 AMP draw. Im not sure at all how it works when you use 2 of those...Does it double the CFM to 4700 and draws 14 AMPS?

I don't know...I just started researching electric fans today..trying to read all I can....
 
Badass James. You have to take me on a ride in that thing when it is done. What about e fans from behind the grill?

HA! Thanks. I guess.. It'll be a long way off until I'm done. This is just mock up and figuring out the fitment of the whole thing. Once I get that, then it's figuring out a carburetor, then ignition, timing and tuning, and a water/methanol injection system I think I wanna use. lol

Definitely cannot use a fan in front of the radiator, I have a trans cooler in that spot.
 
Okay, for now I skipped the whole electric fan idea and got a shorter snout at 9 3/4". It should work now. LOL

SO, for ignition....what do yall recommend?
 
MSD 6BTM Box with one step colder spark plugs gapped on the tight side.

Thank you for the recommendation! I will check that box out. I told my brother about this and he agrees this is a good box cause I could still use the stock distributor which has vacuum advance, and could eliminate the ballast resistor. He is somewhat familiar with these little roots blowers as well.

HEY DUDE!! Pretty cool idea, those little blowers work great.

Thank you! Still collecting some parts I need for the swap, when time and money allow.

I came across some pictures I found online of a fuel injection system B&M once sold back in the mid '80's specifically for these blowers which I would love to have, although VERY rare and hard to find, of course. :)

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