1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?

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The front Amber marker light lens are faded. No one sells the lense only. I found Amber LED’s so they will shine just fine.
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I have red LED’s for the rear.
 
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Funds are running low!!! $160 remote mirror and $300 carpet are slowing me down. I wanted to button up the interior. I am doing all I can with what I have. I sold a couple of things on Facebook so I have money for bumpers. Maybe I should use that money! LOL
 
Took me 8 years to build my Hardtop. Never took money from my paycheck. Did side jobs. Fixed and sold lawn mowers and snow Blowers, Small collision work, Struts and brake jobs. Sold my Dakota and drove a shitbox and whatever else I could wheel and deal.
 
I like many have been blessed beyond my wildest expectations. Way too many material things. Cars and projects are my passion. I do live for my family which keeps me focused. I plan on working as long as I can. Retirement and extra cash don’t seem to go together. I enjoy my job so that makes it easier. At 65 my company has usually cut you loose. I guess now that no one wants to work. It makes my job more secure.
 
Front door plastic vapor barriers were good. Rear vapor barriers the plastic shredded. I am using a paper based vapor barrier for flooring. Should work fine. I am attaching it to the back of the panels.
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Coming together.

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Original metallic maroon door cards and maroon metal trim.
 
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Rear deck shelf was unwrapped. Hard to see. Also threw in the new divider panel and the top of the rear seat.

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hcallaway said:
Front door plastic vapor barriers were good. Rear vapor barriers the plastic shredded. I am using a paper based vapor barrier for flooring. Should work fine. I am attaching it to the back of the panels
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Btw the "vapor" barrier is also a water deflector. It tucks into slots at the bottom to return any water back into the quarter cavity to drain out the drain holes.


Behind the blue tape is the slot and the plastic going into it.

This is new plastic copied from the OEM piece and roll calking adhesive applied in the same OEM location.
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This is a front door but it has the same type of slot as the rear
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My fronts are OEM. On the rears I was only worried about moisture on the hardboard. I have new window seals and when ever they come off back order the roof to window seals will be in place. Car will sit in my garage.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Btw the "vapor" barrier is also a water deflector. It tucks into slots at the bottom to return any water back into the quarter cavity to drain out the drain holes.


Behind the blue tape is the slot and the plastic going into it.

This is new plastic copied from the OEM piece and roll calking adhesive applied in the same OEM location.
View attachment 1716330145


This is a front door but it has the same type of slot as the rearView attachment 1716330146
Click to expand...
I did the same with 6 mil plastic. Then used black gaffers tape.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional...ive-Multipurpose/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/?tag=fabo03-20
 
I am getting close to having all the interior wrapped up. Remote side mirror is due next week. Other than carpet being a major item, I am in the home stretch.
Wiring harness is 90% complete. So I am making a mental list before the engine transmission drop. I need brake lines and a gas line.
I have tried to blow out the original line. It looks great and I wanted to reuse it
I have tried multiple times to clear it with my air compressor.

It finally broke open. 10-15’ across my floor and up to 10’ on the garage door. Foul sticky smelly old gas. The Dart was up in the air!

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Nice to be able to save many original items as it goes back together. Most things were bagged and tagged with screws included.

Vent window rubbers were in great shape. Cleaned side glasses and windshield.

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Some badging. Old emblems are not perfect but they will be just fine. Youngest son and wife dropped by and are ready to drive it! They made some nice comments. Those keep making it worth the efforts.

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I replace the bushings and pin and the door still sagged. I ordered a replacement top hinge and that solved the problem. Body shop did the final adjustment. Thanks
 
Bushings in lower hinges is a no-no. The factory never used them for a reason.
We completely remanufacture your hinges using bushings only where the actory did, which was only the tops.
We use custom oversised steel pins for the lower hinges and replace the door check pins and springs as well.

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Attachments

  • 2024 MEMBER HINGE PRICE LIST[17].pdf
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MM2106 1967-74 A BDY UPR DR HNGE
RH UPS 1 $69.99 ea Yes $69.99

All your posts are an info ad. I wouldn’t mind if you had ever posted a thumbs up or something not self serving about your services. It is always a cut and paste. I think you do good work for those that need your help. For $69.99 and a two day delivery buying these from Classic Industries was a no brainer.
I would suggest others look at this option first.
 
Taiwan copy. The origianls have lasted over 50 years and the repros don't even look like the original.
Just another fyi for other members. Your car does look very nice.
 
I am dropping off the drive train on Wednesday and the Dart in the next few weeks. Chad loves Molars. He has a Dart and a hot Duster. Also a RR with a big HP motor. I believe he raced a Dakota that could really hold its own.
Click to expand...
Chad also loves Mopars. Have to love spell check and fat fingers on a cell phone.
 
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I went to close the drivers fresh air door and it promptly broke off. Quick fix!

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