1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?

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a tip for when you mask small bits/cables/pipe fittings etc is to use tin/baking foil from the kitchen. it can be wrapped tightly around things and stays put, but the best bit is it's easy to remove afterwards. it's a pain unwrapping miles of masking tape sometimes, lol.
neil.
 
This was after soaking for an hour. I hated looking at it sitting there. This is believe it or not much improved.
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Dart is relocated to the Body Shop. Right now the estimate for body and paint is $3500-$4000. I was initially just going to do the engine compartment and trunk. Also the drivers side dents until I ran out of money. Current plan is to do that as well as any other areas that need attention. Spray with a high build primer and let me block and see what we may discover. I already have approximately $2K in metal work and $800 in metal parts including a full rear quarter. I guess my painted car will be around $7-7500. I think that is a fair price if it all works out.
I just realized I posted about it being at the shop. I didn’t give the pricing. Other threads are searching for painters. Prices certainly vary.
 
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I have been eyeing the seat belts.
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They were very dirty.
I put them in a sweat shirt, inside a pillow cover in the washing machine. They came out much better but not perfect.
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Rear outers
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Need to clean the buckles and other hardware.
 
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Once it got in the shop, they got right on it. The driver’s side worried me the most. At one point I was ready to add that quarter. I was told that was not the way to go. They felt the dents could be pulled and in the end it worked as they knew it should.

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I have this 3/4 high density foam rubber I bought for a bench seat. My young upholstery guy said it is working out just fine. Multiple layers of foam and fabric to repair the seat bottoms.
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They should be done next week.
 
Finally located the fender inter liners. Power wash, wire brush and Rust-Oleum paintable undercoating on both sides.

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I will repair the original rubber seals.
 
Back home.
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They sprayed the radiator surround and K member, control arms and dust shields flat black. My painter does things you don’t even ask.

I was finally able to look over the car. The troubled passenger door was adjusted by the shop. The new top hinge did the job. I was not having any luck getting it to fit. The body line at the top of the door now matches the quarter.

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Attached bottom of both front fenders.

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Let the blocking begin. Over a gallon of high build primer. 320 grit. I need to do some research on how much to sand. The dart doors and fender have up to 5? flat planes to use to block. I am taking it down and when I see a dip or rise I stop in that area and mark it with a pencil.
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Not sure how to attach a video?
I block the center sections to sharpen my lines. Then do a section complete.
I am beat 8 hours of blocking with a 45 minute break.

Roof, pillars and the tops of the doors and fenders. Then I will be done.

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I rolled it under the carport and turned on a fan to blow the dust away.

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From Pat in NC.
Getting done on Clayton ST in Kinston NC.

I was 15. HFC III was 21’ish. Brick was 47’ish.

My brother sent this out today.
91 year old dad still loves cars and drives. My brother is my partner in crime just in another state.

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45 years later and I am about worn out.
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Blocked for another 8 hours and no lunch. Day started with a trip to the ER. UTI first time for that. I freaked out with sudden appearance of blood. Never had that happen. I worked from home and it worked to my advantage. Painter will take it this week or next depending on his workload.
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180 grit 24 hours sanding
Primer then:
320 grit 16 hours sanding
Does not include trunk and engine compartment sanding and grinding.
 
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Another small piece of the puzzle. I started thinking about anything else that needs paint. The gas cap and hood bolts.
Bottom of the gas cap is metallic. Then I will prime and finish sand the exposed parts.

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Dash and instrument cluster cleaned up. Removing the tar and nicotine was a good move. Later adding some vinyl protection will shine the dash pad. I will touch up the SS screw heads with some flat black. #8 3/4
I was a little surprised the console cleaned up so well. I also adjusted the lid to hold and not act like a mouse trap.
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This project is not about being perfect. The 68 Dart is one going on at the same time as some others. The other ones have been dragging at the end stages.
(Mainly because they have burnt me out.)
I am a little past the 2 year mark. The dart has up to this point is very satisfying. Parts come off with little effort. It has been unmolested for its entire life. Off the road for over 35 years.
The bad for this car was the motor was locked, unlike the promises made when I negotiated the price. The rust was mostly predictable and in the end, it was much better than I expected. I have a great metal fabricator that I work with and a painter that I really understand, who works with me. This car to me has character. Little imperfections that show it was used and can be used without worries. In the end I hope it will look presentable, clean and be totally reliable.
What made me think about all this was cleaning the dash and console. The chrome plastic has met father time. The dash has some hairline cracks or spider webs, but no major flaws. The console has wear and scuffs. The best part is that they don't compel me to replace anything. With 56 years of aging, it is what it is and will be. I am just glad my wife seems to be OK with me at 65. I am not show quality either. (I think however, she is.)
 
Paint colors FYI
From my painter.

Hey, sorry, forgot to check. So it’s $256.14 per Quart just for base coat. Red is definitely the most expensive color.

Yeah, in comparison straight black is $146.90 per quart.
 
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