67 dart stroker hellcat gen3 hemi with twin turbos...

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been through a bunch of sensors and the errors just show stall or sync error. data log or system log is unhelpful besides showing it goes crazy. doesnt show any other errors. going to try this new main harness again. it has thicker wires and more protection around the sensitive ones. the big difference is i have my ignition coils mounted much differently and very close to my crank sensor. that which nobody else has done before. im considering smart coils,or single plug instead of the dual.
tune has been looked over and anal probed to no avail. ill get it figured out quickly. one way or another. 12yrs ive not given up yet. dont intend to quit at this point. just a little venting is all ive been doing lately. tryin to build myself up to bust its *** more.
Have you tried moving the coils?
 
Where are they mounted and are the plug wires anywhere near the main harness?
they mount where the engine motor mounts would typically be. it has made perfectly clean passes just as pictured. so i cant say for certain this is the culprit. it is certainly on the very short list of possibilities. like somebody else stated to me. to get a free $600 main harness 10yrs after purchase. that screams known issues of said harness and ive heard of others with exact same issues im having. to have been corrected once harness was changed out. i am.hoping for this but i am currently looking at options of selling the car outright or engine as a whole turn key. so i can go with a g2 hemi and twins instead. just tired of the mental exhaustion over a year long. to find no solutions for this.

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Going G2 twins will just cost way more and set your program back years. Those plug wires are all over your harness wiring. Isn’t the original crank sensor down there somewhere? If it’s made clean passes, I’m not sure how you can fault the harness. I’d look at getting the coils up on the valve covers or inner fenders and keep it away from the harness wiring.
 
Going G2 twins will just cost way more and set your program back years. Those plug wires are all over your harness wiring. Isn’t the original crank sensor down there somewhere? If it’s made clean passes, I’m not sure how you can fault the harness. I’d look at getting the coils up on the valve covers or inner fenders and keep it away from the harness wiring.
I couldn’t agree more, with all of this. The zip tied bundle of spark plug wires running around the harness is super suspect. And I’ll add a pic for reference for sensor location.
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the coil wires and even spark plug wires touch nothing on the harness. even several inches away from anything besides themselves. probably 6plus inches away from the crank sensor and 4in from the coil harness till the harness reaches the coils.
 
the coil wires and even spark plug wires touch nothing on the harness. even several inches away from anything besides themselves. probably 6plus inches away from the crank sensor and 4in from the coil harness till the harness reaches the coils.
They don’t have to touch and you can’t move them far enough away from each other. That spark energy can jump all over. Do some research on plug wires and RMI.
 
They don’t have to touch and you can’t move them far enough away from each other. That spark energy can jump all over. Do some research on plug wires and RMI.
that's right, it's why it was always good practice on 'traditional' v8's to keep plug wires 5 and 7 seperate to avoid induced spark in the wrong cylinder.
 
They don’t have to touch and you can’t move them far enough away from each other. That spark energy can jump all over. Do some research on plug wires and RMI.
that is the good **** to know. im about to go single plug now with smart coils.
unless i can sell my indy covers and get ones i can mount coils on top.
 
Here's a trick you can try. I found a ferrite ring located near the coil reduces RFI dramatically. For 8 mm wires I use Digi-Key PN 1934-1348-ND. Picture shows custom solid core wire on my son's go-kart. (I designed a custom ignition timing controller for small engines.)

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Here's a trick you can try. I found a ferrite ring located near the coil reduces RFI dramatically. For 8 mm wires I use Digi-Key PN 1934-1348-ND. Picture shows custom solid core wire on my son's go-kart. (I designed a custom ignition timing controller for small engines.)

View attachment 1715758774

ive been trying to find clamp on ferrites for 8.5mm wiring. no success or they are like 25 bucks a piece x16 wires adds up to a stupid amount.
 
i run the stock coils. 2 sets of them even. do yall even look at the pictures i posted? lol
Yes. But what we are suggesting is to mount them like this.......
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If you are having RFI problems (and it’s likely you are with how yours are mounted) this will solve it.
 
Yes. But what we are suggesting is to mount them like this.......
View attachment 1715759146
If you are having RFI problems (and it’s likely you are with how yours are mounted) this will solve it.
i dont have regular valve covers to do this. i intend to move them around a bit away from 1 another. just gotta figure out and execute it. once i finish the main harness.
 
i dont have regular valve covers to do this. i intend to move them around a bit away from 1 another. just gotta figure out and execute it. once i finish the main harness.
Got it. FYI the coils proximity to sensors and or sensor harness is really the problem. They’re proximity to each other isn’t necessarily a problem if the high tension leads are routed neatly and crossfiring doesn’t happen.
 
Got it. FYI the coils proximity to sensors and or sensor harness is really the problem. They’re proximity to each other isn’t necessarily a problem if the high tension leads are routed neatly and crossfiring doesn’t happen.
i am looking for ways to reroute them now. or at least get the wires not running parallel to each another. coil harness runs near the crank sensor wiring. so im mor eor less studying how to route without looking like **** either. 16 plug wires i plan to move around or spiral them together that will stop them from jumping ship along the way. been considering single plug for a while anyways. 16 is a pita to change on my car.
 
i work at a cdjr dealer and there a bulletin on trucks that we would add capacitors in the asd wiring on the injector side and the the capacitors bolted to the head for rfi setting codes. i don't know if that would help on your build i know its not stock wiring or pcm.
 
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