Matts440
Well-Known Member
Will take better pictures once I get them, this one is just from the site. They are from On3 performance
67 twin turbo dart
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wheelzup
Member
Keeps us posted on the lifter issue. Curious what you come up with .
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I will, I'll post up pictures once I get it back
Interested to see how much metal is there it appears to be about 3/16 did they do a ultrasonic to check the thickness.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I know they cnc the tabs off and doing everything by hand to fit then will pressure test the coolant passages to just make sure it holds and not to thin, if it gets to thin.....well we will have to cross that bridge if it goes there, hopefully everything works out. They might have sonic tested it before the hand work started I'll email them tomorrow for an update.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
No I don't have a pic like that from before.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Here are two updated pictures of the work and needs a little more clearance, going to grind on the t bar to get it to fit correctly.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yeah guess they didn't feel comfortable enough to grind that area since it's on the thinner side, they sent the lifters to crower to swap the t bar so the mounting part for the t bar will face into the valley instead of the the block. Just waiting for them to get it all back and check and then I'll pick it up and reassemble it this time for good 
I hope lol
I hope lol
Matts440
Well-Known Member
59 degree with edelbrock mag. heads, well heard from the shop crower won't swap the t bar so back to either shaving the t bar and the flat slide but for clearance or they are contacting Ritter to just ask about clearancing the block a bit more.
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After speaking with crower i am not sure that they make the lifter they told me that most companies hydraulic roller lifters are bought in from specialty industries
I have Johnson roller,Crower roller & Comp cams flat tappet & they all have identical parts inside valves, oil ,plates & spacers all the same
Probably shaving the bar is a safer option.
I filled the end of mine with hot glue then tapped the other to stop any grit getting into the roller the hot glue just pulls out when complete it doesnt enter the hole as the lifter is cold & the glue hardens quickly
If you get any grit into the roller bearing the lifter is toast
Does Kent have an idea how much meat is in the lifter area.
I have Johnson roller,Crower roller & Comp cams flat tappet & they all have identical parts inside valves, oil ,plates & spacers all the same
Probably shaving the bar is a safer option.
I filled the end of mine with hot glue then tapped the other to stop any grit getting into the roller the hot glue just pulls out when complete it doesnt enter the hole as the lifter is cold & the glue hardens quickly
If you get any grit into the roller bearing the lifter is toast
Does Kent have an idea how much meat is in the lifter area.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
That's what they were going to call him about. I wrote the machine shop back and waiting for a reply about shaving the lifter where it needs it. How's your set up coming along?
wheelzup
Member
I have been in touch with Jesel to see if they offer anything.They indicated the 59 degree setup is hardest to find a lifter for . They had suggested a key type lifter .Not cheap ($190 each x 16) plus bushings .
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well I have it all bushed just fitting the crower lifters, height is perfect, oh well it will all work out and get this engine up and running. Maybe the 48 degree would have been easier to work with, no turning back now lol
wheelzup
Member
I'm going to try a comp 8043-16 (purchased a 8043-2) The only thing they offer is an inboard tie bar which my help with clearance. I just need to work out 2 other issue before I start machining block
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Matts440
Well-Known Member
Those I think would work perfect just my Lifters are .937. If mine were like that they would pop right in now
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Maybe your machinist can simply sonic check the areas that need clearancing. Even if Ritter says it's beefier there, I would not risk blindly grinding there, in case of casting differences.
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Matts440
Well-Known Member
They will probably do that, don't see them doing anything blind.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Just ordered this for when I get the block back to paint the insides.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well update on the block work, having to swap lifters back to a .904 due to clearance on the block issues, so new bushings will be installed and QMP will get a pair first and test it all out before getting the rest, the lifter still has a .815 roller wheel. To modify the current ones will weaken them too much, big thanks to Shane aka @19666dart at crower for all the info and help, awesome guy, and the crew at QMP.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
48 degree is the way to go. That 59 degree disaster is leftover from the Gen1 hemis. Chrysler was too lazy to fix it.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
True but to late now have to much invested. Oh well have it hopefully all getting fixed. Just if anyone goes 59 degree Ritter block just keep the .904 lifter or if you want a .937 to go keyed lifters and bushings.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Still waiting for the engine to get done. But get order up some stuff like trans and a oil coolers will mount under the car thinking under the seats using those bolts mount them on a aluminum plate, they will be protected by the frame connectors, also the front wheels I bought for it the company doesn't make 15" wheels any more so most likely have to sell them, but I ordered these wheels from Jegs, and we are thinking of doing this coloring just with out the stripe in the back. The side stripe black will be the same width as the tail light housing along with across the trunk.
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