**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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Mad Dart said:
I got the POS off. Still was a PITA. It finally gave with a CRACKKKKK, Lol
Autozone tool loaning helped me out and it did not cost me a penny! This is their heavy duty pitman arm puller. No flexing at all.

All steering parts are on. I left the outer tie rod end on the drivers side disconnected. It will be easier to change out the brake distribution block this way when it gets here.

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That's the only on i have had, that work time and time again! Replaced them threw bolts a couple times. When the torch is an added instrument, it weekend them cross threw bolts!
 
Got the brakes bled... I got more pedal. Push the pedal and 1 more pump it is solid. I could drive the car like that but something is still not right. When I called Cass and ordered the new distribution block he said it would fix the issue and that the pedal would be soft until I pumped it..... I have his 1 1/32 master cylinder. He said it would work fine for what I have going on. For sure there is bleed back on the rear line. Put on the line lock which on my car blocks fluid from going to the rear brakes and the front brakes act fine. No pumping them up and the pedal feels way firm. So the problem is in the rear brake system for sure. I ordered a 2psi Residual valve that I will be plumbing into the rear brakes before the proportion valve right after the "New" Distribution block.

I ended up ordering a set of Digital Scales today so I can set my car up properly without begging or borrowing anything from anyone.... I like to have my own tools. My rear springs are 130lb and no way are they enough to keep the shock in the sweet zone. Pete came over today to help me with the brakes and do a base tune on the rear suspension. The car to him did not feel right, he looked under it and said right away that the springs were not enough...... Best to get the car scaled.... So this week I will know what it weighs total, front to rear percentage and side to side. From there we will know what springs to put on the rear. Then after the springs get here it will be put back on the scales to dial the suspension in on all 4 corners. Tricky technology stuff that I be learning first hand.
 
Scales are fun, I DON'T loan them out and always be sure to protect the cables. I'd go nuts if one lost communication with the head unit
 
SpareParts said:
Scales are fun, I DON'T loan them out and always be sure to protect the cables. I'd go nuts if one lost communication with the head unit
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Yeah around here guys get $250.00 just to scale a car. If any tweaking or wrenching is needed Labor charges are ontop of that. They will make their $$ back quickly.
 
Mad Dart said:
Yeah around here guys get $250.00 just to scale a car. If any tweaking or wrenching is needed Labor charges are ontop of that. They will make their $$ back quickly.
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The guy who did my alignment only asked for 75 which was more than the alignment to scale the car on each corner.
 
Using the springs from the TT dart project?

130# seems kinda light for as heavy as that car likely is. I bet it scales close to 3500

I know where to bring the car when I want to scale it. LOL
 
crackedback said:
Using the springs from the TT dart project?

130# seems kinda light for as heavy as that car likely is. I bet it scales close to 3500

I know where to bring the car when I want to scale it. LOL
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No... I bought new double adjustable shocks and springs. No big on the springs they are cheap! They only get expensive if you keep guessing on what you need & buying parts that don't work! Lol
 
Fst73_410 said:
The guy who did my alignment only asked for 75 which was more than the alignment to scale the car on each corner.
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Lol, Scaling a car and having the knowledge to actually do something with those numbers is a whole different ball game.

Kinda like getting your oil changed at Quickie lube... They change your oil and strip the fck out of your drain plug in the process, get oil all over your steering wheel and carpet. Park your car and oils drips all over your driveway.
**** was cheap though. You got a killer deal!
 
Called Dr. Diff today and explained the problem. Told him I had Wilwood Dynalite calipers. He said there is still air in the lines. There are 4 bleeders on these calipers with a cross over tube internal in the caliper that takes fluid to the other side's pistons. He said to take all 4 tires off, unbolt the calipers and to face the bottoms up and set them back on the rotor in any spot then bleed the other side of the caliper. He said if you can't set them back on the caliper use a piece of wood to simulate that they are on the rotor and bleed them in your hand while holding them or prop them up on the axle or something.

On another note I pick up my new wheels tomorrow. I got bead locks on 1 side and I will be drilling the insides for rim screws.......More fun!
 
I had to use a power bleeder to get the air out my strange calipers....

Strange instructions says to bleed the inside half 1st...then the outer half...I also used a rubber hammer...to tap them to knock the air out of them...
 
70aarcuda said:
I had to use a power bleeder to get the air out my strange calipers....

Strange instructions says to bleed the inside half 1st...then the outer half...I also used a rubber hammer...to tap them to knock the air out of them...
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Thanks for the tip Tony!... I was about to use a 10lb sledge on them! They for sure pissed me off! haaa
 
X 275 guys change tires at the track and only have bead locks on one side - as best as I could tell.
 
airwoofer said:
X 275 guys change tires at the track and only have bead locks on one side - as best as I could tell.
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Is that for weight reduction? Seems like you would want an even clamping force or it would start wearing unevenly? Or maybe a lot of what you see is bead locks put on cars that don't need em and put them on "for show"?
 
I have talked to mega old time guys. Bead locks are not needed most of the time. 1000HP cars run them without any rim screws either just fine.

I will be drilling my wheels and adding screws to the insides.

Scales will be here today. Car will be weighed hopefully tonight.
 
I'll be curious to see how your car weighs out. I'm kinda surprised you'd be going up with the spring rate from 130lb though. The rear on mine moves about like a lumber wagon with 130 lb springs, even with the adjusters all the way out to make it as soft as possible. 150 lb would be way worse for my situation.
 
clinteg said:
I'll be curious to see how your car weighs out. I'm kinda surprised you'd be going up with the spring rate from 130lb though. The rear on mine moves about like a lumber wagon with 130 lb springs, even with the adjusters all the way out to make it as soft as possible. 150 lb would be way worse for my situation.
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Your springs are forward of the axle probably at least 8-10" of where mine are. Makes a difference in what would be needed in addition to the weight of the car. I also got a NOS Bottle, Battery in trunk and a 24 Gallon fuel cell 14pt Cage, Heater box still in the car etc, etc.... All that stuff makes a big difference. My car is all stock not gutted in any way shape or form...Heavy bench seat, rear seat etc.

All I know is, after Pete gets done tuning the suspension.... It WILL hook like a mo foooooo!
 
I will be drilling my wheels and adding screws to the insides.
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Do some homework on that if you haven't already. A Mustang at our local track had only the insides of the rear tires screwed to the rims, the tire somehow peeled off the wheel on the outside and sent the car over the guardrail. Ever since then I either screw both sides or don't at all if radials.
 
A ton of people glue their radials. Do not mount them with any lube just get some Hi Tack and apply to the bead. Helps a lot for us guys with small tires and wider wheels
 
ProSport said:
Do some homework on that if you haven't already. A Mustang at our local track had only the insides of the rear tires screwed to the rims, the tire somehow peeled off the wheel on the outside and sent the car over the guardrail. Ever since then I either screw both sides or don't at all if radials.
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Outside is beadlock... Inside screwed.

These are my SLICK wheels not Drag Radials. 29x10.50wx 15 MT Slicks part #3602w IIRC
 
Mad Dart said:
Lol, Scaling a car and having the knowledge to actually do something with those numbers is a whole different ball game.

Kinda like getting your oil changed at Quickie lube... They change your oil and strip the fck out of your drain plug in the process, get oil all over your steering wheel and carpet. Park your car and oils drips all over your driveway.
**** was cheap though. You got a killer deal!
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Or buying turbos off ebay :) :burnout:
 
Fst73_410 said:
Or buying turbos off ebay :) :burnout:
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You truly don't know WTF you are talking about. A friend of mine runs 7.90's in the 1/4 in a 3rd Gen Camaro with 2 Ebay GT-45 Turbo's on an LS-6 with Air to Air Intercooler and STOCK exhaust manifolds! No fancy *** headers or nothing.
 
Mad Dart said:
You truly don't know WTF you are talking about. A friend of mine runs 7.90's in the 1/4 in a 3rd Gen Camaro with 2 Ebay GT-45 Turbo's on an LS-6 with Air to Air Intercooler and STOCK exhaust manifolds! No fancy *** headers or nothing.
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That's my point lol. SO someone offers something cheaper.. If the person knows what he is doing (since he does race car suspensions on the weekends) why knock it? :glasses7:
 
Its nice having your own scales. I had to use a set every week with my legends race car to do cross weight. Couldn't believe what a 1/2 or 1 turn does to handling on a circle track car. Sucked putting in 280 pounds of lead into the seat so I could weigh it as if I were in it lol. Also knowing if you would pass tech by being 2 lbs heavy.

The 4 piston calipers I had to do the same thing on the 4 piston brakes on a dirt sportsmen to get them to bleed.
 
Fst73_410 said:
That's my point lol. SO someone offers something cheaper.. If the person knows what he is doing (since he does race car suspensions on the weekends) why knock it? :glasses7:
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I can't wait to see your car in person... In 2 weeks I will meet you at Donuts.
 
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