Birth of the Blue Missile

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Jedi master,
here is ride height, I have a 12" spreader in place of the shocks and the taller upper mount. As I suspected I will have to raise the inner fender aprox 2". This will give the shock 1.5" of travel in either direction.
After that is accomplished Ill get back to ya.
Thanks.
Andrew
 

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Andrew (young Skywalker).....what are your shock specs?

extended......?
compressed...?


If you have 3" of travel...appx 1" should be drop,....... 2" compression
 
blue missile said:
Jedi master,
here is ride height, I have a 12" spreader in place of the shocks and the taller upper mount. As I suspected I will have to raise the inner fender aprox 2". This will give the shock 1.5" of travel in either direction.
After that is accomplished Ill get back to ya.
Thanks.
Andrew
Click to expand...

isn't this 1" lower than we specified?

if thats where you want it ..OK...but I thought we were looking at not having to section the inner fender....because it needed to be 1"-1.5" higher than Ross's for ground/spoiler clearance
 
shocks are 10.5"-13.5" Ill measure again tomorrow. I could always use the lower mounts, remember these are 2" drop spindles.
Andrew
 
blue missile said:
shocks are 10.5"-13.5" Ill measure again tomorrow. I could always use the lower mounts, remember these are 2" drop spindles.
Andrew
Click to expand...

the drops are taken into consideration in the design. The advantage of using them to me is in the front end geometry, most importantly being able to use a greasable tie rod end and not the altered steering arm w/ a rod end to correct bump steer....just to point out a few, but not all the advantages.

using those shock specs...the installed ride height should be appx12.5...you can also space the shock mount down up to 1/2" by putting the desired width spacer between the factory shock hole and the shock mount. Both holes are sloted to allow this adjustment

but, back to the question....wasn't the ride height to be high enough to NOT raise the inner fenderwell and give front spoiler clearance? If you install a 13" spreader...doesn't that give appx 2.25-2.5 above the tire at ride height? Also does that then put the ride height, originally measured from the floor to the rear K frame bolt in the range that we were originally shooting for. Have to look up my notes......think it was around 13"

the lower (shorter) shock mounts will lower the front even more....wrong way..agree? prefer to use a longer and more travel shock, although what you have is close and probably very workable....I just like the extra shock travel
 
Denny,
I used the larger of the upper shock mounts and made 12.5" spreaders in place of the shocks to set ride height. It actually puts me right where I need to be. The bottom of the frame rails is 4" AFF and the front spoiler is 6.5" AFF. I have to raise the rear 1" and the car will be level.
I will still raise the inside of the inner fender a couple of inches and channel out the frame for tire travel. After that we cam make some more tweaks.
Andrew
 

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you can gain an extra 1/2" of ride height by adjusting the upper shock mount down 1/2"

....now the bump stops

on the uppers,
I use the factory pad...on mine, on pad was welded from the factory, 1/4 " higher on one side than the other side. Anyways, I let the suspension hang on just the shock (or preferable a 13.4 spreader), then with a combination of one of the thicker bump stops and a spacer (one spacer is 2" long,... the other 2 1/4" long, 1-1/2" OD poly with a 3/8 threaded coupler thru the middle), make the bumpstop so the suspension stops slightly before the shock would bottom out.

on the lower control arm bumpstop...
if the shock is fully compressed at 10.5"...make your spreader 10.6..or a little more, because the poly bump stop will compress, and place the bumpstop in for fitment. There are several thicknesses available and because the mount is threaded...it can be adjusted down

Thats how I do it anyways....maybe you can come up with a better method...but let me know how the stops work out

BTW...how much room do you have above the tire....as long as you can get full shock compression... with the stops in place, it is not neccassary to raise those inners
 
BTW.......Looking good, I forgot you modified your front upper fender lip....no rubbie?
 
I long ago decided to run an electric water pump, but the other day I took out the MP book on the small block and read that the standard water pump at cruising speed pumps 70GPM. The high flow electrics brag about moving 35GPM, what am I missing here? At Idle the elecrtic has a slightly better flow, but the moment you hit the gas the standard one leaves it behind.
Thoughts or corrections.
Andrew
 
Im getting down to the engine specs and My computer shows me that my peak horse power will be at 6500rpm. How do I move the peak lower on the rpm band?
Andrew
 

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lets try again. Sorry this is the best resolution I can get.
Andrew
 

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blue missile said:
Im getting down to the engine specs and My computer shows me that my peak horse power will be at 6500rpm. How do I move the peak lower on the rpm band?
Andrew
Click to expand...

try different camshaft profiles....
if I was racing on a road course, I would not go for a camshaft that offers peak HP/torque at a high RPM....I'd want HP/torque...down low, to pull off the corners...then a cam that will pull thru the RPM.

I'll bet there are some autocrossers that know the hot set-up for what you're doing
 
I agree, I want to pull 1500 rpm off the peak and keep all the horse power and torque.
By the way the two curves are; w/dots are the 416 w/ Shady Dell eddy heads and the plain set is the 416 w/ Shady Dell Indy 360-2 heads. The 360-2 pulls above 520ft/lb from 4500-6500 & peaks at 563. the HP power band is from 5500 to 8000 much higher than I wanted, but peaks out at 637. I think if I can tweak this combo it will be a fun grocery getter.
Andrew
 
Nice numbers but I think you might have to drop down notch
or two for something you actually want to drive at any length.
 
Ok a little more room for the tire at full lock. a piece of 4"x3/16" pipe.
Ill do a flat plate reinforcement on the other side.
Denny, the lower bumpstop worked out just fine. the upper was way off, I*ll reweld it in the proper place.
Andrew
 

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blue missile said:
please explain
Click to expand...
It's a screamer for sure. I'm just sayin' that in this case,
less is more as far as general drivability and more torque
at a lower RPM. If you can live with it's kinda high-strung
nature that's great but you may tire of it after a while and
want a more usable (read practical) piece. Give it a try and
I applaud your ambition. A couple of notches down would in
no way be a "stocker"......It would still be mighty strong.
 
I am speaking in general automotive principles. Shady Dell are the small
block experts and I would simply describe to them your intended usage
and ask their recommendation.

It just sounds like the setup you originally listed is for maximum power
irregardless of how you are going to use it.....more like a racetrack setup.
Make sure they understand that you are going to want to drive the car....
however it is that you are going to drive it.

I would at least ask their opinion.
 
Here is the beginning of the inner fender redo. I raised the outer edge .75" and the inner edge 2.5". more tomorrow
Andrew
 

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Here is the latest. I'll do some more welding get the epoxy primer end filler down and then real paint in the engine compartment. The list of welding project down to two, hood scoop and gas tank.
Andrew
 

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