contact pattern

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Ok, schoolin. This is good. And appreciated. Then let me ask you this. If you say the crush sleeve doesn't crush any farther, then what do you attribute failures to in axles with crush sleeves? In my experience, there seems to be a lot more failures in crush sleeve axles than not. At least that's what I have seen.
 
I never seen a CS fail, between my stuff and all my customers i don't have any failures.

I have seen nuts back off, seen issues where the preloads were never right from the get go, i can't tell you how many people set preload and never got the bearings seated, or think that checking it off of standing start and not making a full revolution with the same force and that its set at the right preload.
Now imagine having 20" lbs on a unseated bearing, in reality you have no preload once it seats, and in a short time you beat your bearings up and then if you drive thru that noise you wreck your gears.

Most failures are all attributed to people thinking that SOME noise is acceptable, nothing a car makes for noise other than out the exhaust is an acceptable noise to ignore.
In a diff as little as .001 is a problem in the wrong direction, and .001 isn't even something you can see, but at .001 you wind up opening that up to .002 and then you have noise thats ignored and then it continues to loosen up and now its really bad.
The crush sleeve can not be further crushed unless you are able to squeeze the front bearing against the main bearing, which can not happen since there is only relieving effects.

Setting the preload with a cs or shim simply sets the tq needed for the stretch for everything to be set properly that is all it performs.

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crackedback said:
Some great material in here.

:happy1:
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You dang tooten8)as the ring gear don`t turn
What more can you ask for? ya got professional advise, potentialy, regretably ignored. Opposite opinions, rookie mistakes, hurt feelings,
An unknown scammer fabo seller, A buttoned up diff which may have a wrench thrown in its cog.
Hey Marty, I very well may have a non hunting gear set here, may explain alot of weird chit, any thoughts?
 
Ok :coffee2: oh boy.... :coffee2::coffee2:...

On the pin gear you're looking for a groove on one of the teeth, on the ring gear you're looking for a mark in between the drive and coast at the root.
If they can be found they need to be put together.

If they can not be found. . . . .

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If they have the marks in the back , then they'll still be there, in my experience you can't see them on the back and were always a little mark up front.

I'll get back to explaining hunting and non, the quietest gears are hunting type
 
Supershafts said:
If they have the marks in the back , then they'll still be there, in my experience you can't see them on the back and were always a little mark up front.

I'll get back to explaining hunting and non, the quietest gears are hunting type
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I could`nt find any marks on the back of ring, so I did`nt bother to pull the pin bearing yet.
Their is a hash mark on a pin tooth but I think it is just a casting flaw.
Why do they not make 3.23 sets anymore? seems 3.55s and up is only available.
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Thanks, I`ve the info between the two, but I`m sure others would like to know too. What would be nice to have and made a sticky is which ratios are non hunting. Also the formula to figure which is which.
I have a set of 273s I believe they are, and I`m wondering if their hunting or non? With todays economy and fuel prices, it may be the way to go.



Nevermind, All I think we have here is a situation where a man is tring to buget build a messed up rear, ignoring a pros advise, My thoughts is: A used gearset is going to wear a set to each other, I imagine if one does not mark the mesh and reassemble the same way your likely to have noise and or be running in a new wear pattern=noise... Since mine was obviously messed with, I`m not going to bother with them and take a pros advise, BUY NEW..The last thing I want to do is tear into this again, once the car is on the road. Absolutely Not!
Thanks to everyone again and forgive me the drama.
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mopar head said:
Why do they not make 3.23 sets anymore? seems 3.55s and up is only available.
​
I`m sure others would like to know too. Would be nice to have and made a sticky is which ratios are non hunting. Also the formula to figure which is which.
I have a set of 273s I believe they are, and I`m wondering if their hunting or non? With todays economy and fuel prices, it may be the way to go.

Thanks to everyone again and forgive me the drama.
​
Click to expand...

With todays transmissions you wouldn't want dead ratios, No need to make the motor work harder to get moving.

Though some jeeps come with 3.08 and im constantly changing them to a more realistic and more mpg friendly ratio.

Unfortunately without upgrading the trans in older cars the option is only to make one end better and that is to sacrifice mpg and perf for hwy friendly rpms at speed.
Which doesn't always make the best choice, but for the pocket in the short term it is.


Not sure they make non hunting ratios anymore, now the issue is for quieter, smooth operation, hunting fills that better.
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Looks just a tad deep, but I would call it acceptable and run it.
 
Well, I'm no expert by any stretch, but I think you need another pinion shim. Your gap from the edge of the ring gear looks good (marked in red), now if you can get that pattern centered more I think you got it.
 

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I`d love to call this good, but pattern reading seems so contraversial.
Especially when you see charts like this, "came with gearset".

These are all supposed to be acceptable patterns:scratch:
 

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mopar head said:
These are all supposed to be acceptable patterns:scratch:
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Really?!?!?!

I wouldn't think so.

In any event, you're real close where you're at right now. Like I said, I would shoot for getting the pattern just a tad more centered on the ring gear.
 
mopar head said:
I`d love to call this good, but pattern reading seems so contraversial.
Especially when you see charts like this, "came with gearset".

These are all supposed to be acceptable patterns:scratch:
Click to expand...

Yes, that guide is from Yukon axle and is one I use for reference.
 
Bad Sport said:
So you agree those are all acceptable? I didn't think running it on the ends of the ring teeth would be a good idea.
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The pattern that everyone hopes to get when setting up a set of gears is usually not possible. When you have set up a lot of gears you come to realize that fact. It has been my experience that for one getting a good read on the pattern is hard to obtain because it is hard to get enough resistance on the ring gear as you twist the pinion into it to get a good reading. And just as it states in the Yukon guide, you should "look only at the pattern position from face to flank"
 
Thanks for the input fellas, been messin with this thing forever.
New axles should be arriving soon, and I can finally chalk this part of the project off.
One more teardown for pinion preload and caput'.:prayer:
 
mopar head said:
I`d love to call this good, but pattern reading seems so contraversial.
Especially when you see charts like this, "came with gearset".

These are all supposed to be acceptable patterns:scratch:
Click to expand...

I think that's a misprint. It appears the first two are supposed to be acceptable and the last four are not. I think they forgot to print "UNACCEPTABLE" above the last four. But what the heck do I know? I do know if I had it as close as you, I wouldn't tear it back apart. I'd call it good to go.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think that's a misprint. It appears the first two are supposed to be acceptable and the last four are not. I think they forgot to print "UNACCEPTABLE" above the last four. But what the heck do I know? I do know if I had it as close as you, I wouldn't tear it back apart. I'd call it good to go.
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That's exactly what mine said when I did mine.

And ditto on running them.
 
Page 14 in the Yukon in the instillation kit instruction manual. Copyright 1993-2003/ Yukon gear and Axle. Those are all acceptable.
 
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