Cuda SRT8 392 Gen.III Hemi

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Stew, these are some great examples / descriptions. As much as I want my Cuda to behave like your Duster, I also like the idea of having the kind of power the Vipers have. I'm probably going to have to get use to smooth actions. When I was a kid, I use to love to "power shift". Once I put my foot down, I wouldn't let up on it as I'd bang through the gears. I think that would get me in serious trouble with this car on street tires. Hopefully I'd be able to drive it that hard on the strip with full on slicks?

By the way, the Vipers, GT500s and high end Vettes I've seen "totalled" were all done so by the driver hitting second gear hard and losing it. :(

I can give 2 examples, my Duster puts out about 330 hp at the wheels however the torque doesn't come on until 3k and I am running a 4.10 on 245-70/14 BFGs. Hammering it with the clutch out I am just on the side of more traction rather than less - very controllable and the car is docile to drive at other than wot. My viper is 505 hp 500 tq at the flywheel with a 3.07 gear and sticky street tires. Lite to moderate application of the throttle is no issue however anything not done smoothly gets ugly fast. I agree with 72BBSwinger, you have your foot. Banging a gear in my duster on the street is generally not a worry, I hit second gear hard ONCE in the Viper and nearly bought a couple of mailboxes! I think you will be fine if you respect it and it will be a scream out of the hole with that gear.
 
Yeah, I have a TKO600 with the .68 OD. I think I'll be happy with the 3.73 and might be able to experiment with tire diameter to dial in a little more or less RPMs on the street. Strip will be a 28" wrinkle wall slick...

Are you using a 5 spd? If so which 5th gear? If its the .80 I'd go with a 3.54 gear.
 
Mopardude, I'm real happy with my choices / decisions. The Strange sales gal says I'm going to fall in love with my new S60! lol

Good choice on the rear. I bought a complete Strange S60 for my 1970 Dart. Detroit locker, 3.73 gears, with wilwood brakes, etc. Came out beautiful. They are awesome to work with.
 
Yeah, I have a TKO600 with the .68 OD. I think I'll be happy with the 3.73 and might be able to experiment with tire diameter to dial in a little more or less RPMs on the street. Strip will be a 28" wrinkle wall slick...

Yep that will be a good combo.
 
Wow, I called both Strange and Moser in the last few days to ask questions about their product packages / options to be able to spec them / price them as close to an "apples to apples" comparison as I could. VERY interesting discussions.

At Strange, I first got a gal on the phone and I asked who I could talk to about their S60 assemblies. She said "I can help you, what do you need to know". I'm pretty much a chauvanist(sp?) when it comes to girls or women helping me with any kind of car stuff. They usually just don't know what they're talking about and often try to just fake it.

However, I was pleasantly surprised with this gal. She really knew her product(s) and knew cars pretty well in general. I was very impressed. Also, she was very patient with me; took all the time necessary to answer my questions, without ever showing any hint of annoyance or impatience.

The next day I called Moser. What a difference. Got some guy that had the attitude that I should just already know their product or assume that because this was Moser, that's really all I need to know. I HATE this kind of attitude from any employee of a company. His attitude alone, turned me off from Moser.

The sweet, end result from these calls was the Strange assembly was less expensive than the Moser, by 700 bucks. That part gets me all the more, because the Strange assembly is not cheap, but at least the sales/tech gal had a great attitude and took the necessary time with me. The Moser rear end is significantly more expensive and the guy was clearly annoyed with my questions.

I figure there's really only one choice here. I'll be ordering up a nice S60 shortly. Booyaah!

If you need to call Moser then talk to Foz. I understand he is very good and very helpful. Do NOT talk to Shane. Too bad Moser tolerates poor (terrible) sales reps.
 
Thanks Jim, but I went ahead with Strange and never called Moser back. It IS a shame that not all the "front line" people realize how important their first impression could be when answering the phone. Anyway, I ordered the S60 with a Tru-Trak and 3.73 gears. I ordered it powder coated in satin black, with a black cover. I'm really looking forward to receiving it.

I did order it with a 42" center to center on the perches and bought the 1/2" inset hangers / shackles kit from Dr. Diff. I'm hoping that will give me just a little extra clearance (since I didn't mini tub it) when the time comes for wheels and tires while being subtle compared to the 1" kit offered by MP. I would welcome any feedback anyone might have on that...
 
I still have my Super Stock springs I bought back in the late '70s that have only been bolted up to roll the car around in storage for many years. I'd always planned to use them for racing, but now the car will be used more on the street, with only occasional racing.

Is anyone using these on the street? My closest friend (a Chevy guy) says the car looks like a "stink bug" LOL with these springs LOL. I always just tell him, "you just don't "get" the Mopar heritage.

I don't necessarily want it jacked up too high for the street. Was thinking of using a 1" lowering block? Anyone have any input on this? Would this be a bad idea when I DO want to run it on the track? I've also heard that I could run two (driver side) springs to level the car and take some stiffness out of it since the passenger side runs an extra leaf. Anyone doing that with satisfactory results?
Thanks for any input you guys...
 
The amount of arch in the SS springs is the problem. It imposes alot of rear steer when cornering. You have a few choices and the XHDs seem to be the best out there at handling power without being to jacked up while providing reasonable handling character.
 
I still have my Super Stock springs I
I don't necessarily want it jacked up too high for the street. Was thinking of using a 1" lowering block? Anyone have any input on this? Would this be a bad idea when I DO want to run it on the track? I've also heard that I could run two (driver side) springs to level the car and take some stiffness out of it since the passenger side runs an extra leaf. Anyone doing that with satisfactory results?
Thanks for any input you guys...

You can buy new FRONT spring hangers with an extra hole that is 1" higher than stock. With the spring eye imounting bolt in the upper hole, it lowers the car. Some of the Mopar after market suspension vendors have them. Probably available from Mancini's too. Because of the geometry, a 1" higher pivot will drop the rear bumper further than that. probably at least 2" lower. I made a pair from short lengths of tubing, I think it was 3" square x 3/16" wall. Can't report on the results because I haven't installed them yet. You'll have to make sure you check your pinion angle and adjust as necessary. I don't think lowering blocks are good for hi-po use because of the increase in the moment arm.
 
Thanks Kosmic,
I already bought a pair of the 1/2" offset hangers from Dr.Diff and they do have two height settings. Good place to start I guess. If I start with the S/S springs and these offset hangers, I shouldn't have any problems (I would think) with tire rub and from there I can use the various dimensions as a reference to seek the final, ideal height I'd like.
Thanks again for the suggestion. Got a build thread I can check out? I absolutely LOVE fastback, gen.2 Cudas...
 
So I just LOVE this intake, all TIG'd so nicely. I'm a sucker for nice TIG welding and this thing sure would look nice on my engine. Saw this car at the '05 SEMA show, but had no clue at that time that I'd be interested in such a thing. Has anyone else seen this manifold or know where it came from?
 

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That's a pretty cool intake.

I like this one too. I like the fact that it creates the cross ram look. The guy who made it offered it for sale. Unfortunately I've lost the website, but did manage to save a few pics. I'd also like to give the guy credit for a fabulous manifold :(

I have some more of the construction process for those interested.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 

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Thanks Kosmic,

Thanks again for the suggestion. Got a build thread I can check out? I absolutely LOVE fastback, gen.2 Cudas...

Sorry, no build thread yet.
I bought this 68 on E-bay from a guy in San Jose. Very first thing I ever bought on ebay. I'll be kind and just say that the ebay pictures made the car look better than it really was. It's creased, dented, rusted, etc. but I've never been sorry. Currently 318-4 w/ a 904. Future 5.7 and manual trans.
I was going out to Spring Fling anyway and I bought it about 1-2 weeks ahead of that. Flew out to LA and a fellow cuda owner (Max) met me at the show and drove me north to San Jose and I picked it up Sunday night. I keep on saying I should write a book about the whole experience but basically it was working on the car at Max's for 3-1/2 days to make it driveable, left Thursday afternoon before Good Friday, got pulled over by cops in 3 different states, made on the road repairs along the way involving the cooling and charging systems, drove through sleet and a little snow through the NV, UT, CO mountains on mostly bald 255/60 rear tires, slept in the car a couple nights at rest stops, (folding rear seat), and arrived home Monday night at 10 PM. 2800 miles and I'd do it again.
 
Joe Dokes,
Yeah, I've seen that manifold before. A valiant attempt, but I think you'd have to be running 400-500 cubes with forced induction to be able to utilize those huge plenums. I like the crossram aspect, but with the size of the plenums it overwhelms the engine.

I remembered / found the manufacturer of the polished unit on the LX at SEMA. It was Hogan's Intakes. They do incredible work and have a few cross ram styles for Ford and LS engines. I'd love to have them build something for me, but they're pretty expensive and although probably worth every penny, it wouldn't be worth spending that kind of money for what I'll be doing with the car. I'll have to just keep looking at that picture. lol
 
Pictures sure can make a car look better than actuality huh? Hope it was just a bit less than expected vs. an actual rip off. Cars are generally pretty rust free around here, so I'm surprised if your '68 was very rusty.

I love the journey you went on to come get it and drive it home. A real bonding period between you and the car. :) I hope the travel journey and modding journey will be a long lasting trip.

You'll have to tell us about the three stops by the lawmen. I slept many times in a '68 Formula S I had and got stopped in it many times too. Ahhh, the memories! lol


Sorry, no build thread yet.
I bought this 68 on E-bay from a guy in San Jose. Very first thing I ever bought on ebay. I'll be kind and just say that the ebay pictures made the car look better than it really was. It's creased, dented, rusted, etc. but I've never been sorry. Currently 318-4 w/ a 904. Future 5.7 and manual trans.
I was going out to Spring Fling anyway and I bought it about 1-2 weeks ahead of that. Flew out to LA and a fellow cuda owner (Max) met me at the show and drove me north to San Jose and I picked it up Sunday night. I keep on saying I should write a book about the whole experience but basically it was working on the car at Max's for 3-1/2 days to make it driveable, left Thursday afternoon before Good Friday, got pulled over by cops in 3 different states, made on the road repairs along the way involving the cooling and charging systems, drove through sleet and a little snow through the NV, UT, CO mountains on mostly bald 255/60 rear tires, slept in the car a couple nights at rest stops, (folding rear seat), and arrived home Monday night at 10 PM. 2800 miles and I'd do it again.
 
So I received notice my S60 Dana has been shipped....Whooooaaaaaa! Can't wait to see it. I'll post up some pics when it arrives.
 
So I've always imagined running 9" slicks about 28" tall on a 15" wheel. Come to find out, when checking into some Baer rear brakes to go with the fronts (13" T4s) I already have, the smallest rotor I can use (while having an internal parking brake) is a 12". According to Baer, the smallest wheel I can use is a 17". For those who may know, what slick can I run? Can I still get wrinkle wall slicks in a 17" or will I have to go to "drag radials"?
 
I ran 28x10 Hoosier slicks on a 17" rim on my ram.
 
My Strange/Dana 60 arrived earlier this week. She looks real nice all powdered coated satin black. I'll post up some pics as soon as I can. However, it has gold, grade 8 bolts holding the cover on and I'm looking for a real stock look. Does anyone know where I can get some new bolts that replicate the style of bolt they came with back in the muscle car days? That would be perfect!
 
I'm contemplating going the 392 route in my 65 dart but I'm a little intimidated by the electrical aspect of it. Are there stand alone ecu's that simplify it with the tranny etc? Sorry if this is a stupid question because its either 392 or finish my 408 but the 392 reliability appeals to me a great deal.
 
So I've always imagined running 9" slicks about 28" tall on a 15" wheel. Come to find out, when checking into some Baer rear brakes to go with the fronts (13" T4s) I already have, the smallest rotor I can use (while having an internal parking brake) is a 12". According to Baer, the smallest wheel I can use is a 17". For those who may know, what slick can I run? Can I still get wrinkle wall slicks in a 17" or will I have to go to "drag radials"?

The guys over on LX forums pioneered 28" tall 17" slicks. 17" wheels are the smallest that will (barely) fit on the back discs on an LX.

I know Hoosier makes 'em.
 
I'm contemplating going the 392 route in my 65 dart but I'm a little intimidated by the electrical aspect of it. Are there stand alone ecu's that simplify it with the tranny etc? Sorry if this is a stupid question because its either 392 or finish my 408 but the 392 reliability appeals to me a great deal.

There is a couple of different ways to get to 392 cubic inches.

1. Pull a motor from a 2011 or later SRT8 Challenger or Charger
2. Buy a 392 Crate Hemi from Mopar Performance
3. Bore and Stroke a 5.7/354" to 392
4. Stroke a 6.1/372 to 392

Each of these routes has it's own unique challenges. I'll briefly deal with them here but if you read through a bunch of threads you can find that there is a bunch of ways to put a Gen III hemi into a classic Mopar.

First things first. The '65 Dart has a significantly smaller engine compartment than '67 and later A-Bodies as a result I don't BELIEVE (could be wrong please verify) that TTI makes headers or motor mounts specifically for 66 and earlier A-Bodies. Thus you might end up making your own headers and motor mounts.

That being said I know that Bill Reilly's Alter-k-tion works beautifully.

For a full write up on the process check out TinCups thread. It is probably the nicest early A-Body I've ever seen.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=63294


If you want to use a computer controlled transmission either the one from the a truck or car you have to use a factory computer. At this time no one is making a stand alone transmission controller. If you are going to use a factory computer the simplest method is use a wiring harness from Hot Wire Automotive. Hot wire can help with a

http://www.hotwireauto.com/


If you run a manual transmission or a 727/904/518 you can run an aftermarket engine controller. If you run a pre 2009 5.7L Hemi or pre 2010 6.1L Hemi you have a number of different aftermarket engine controllers:

Megasquirt - A DIY fuel injection, cheap but steep learning curve
http://www.diyautotune.com/

Mopar Performance
http://www.moparperformanceonline.com/c-513-mopar-fuel-management-systems.aspx

FAST
http://www.fuelairspark.com/

You can also run a carburetor if you wish, simply use an MSD spark controller and a manifold from any of the following vendors:

Indy
XV Motorsports
Mopar Performance

How you get to 392 or more cubic inches is entirely up to you.

Used 5.7L truck motors are $1500.00 to 2500.00
Used 5.7L car motor are a bit more
Used 6.1L motors are typically in the $4,000.00 to $5,000.00
Used 6.4L motors are still pretty rare, I found a new one on ebay for 7K

Hope this gets you started.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Thanks joe you covered all of my questions. It's hard finding wrecked SRT cars out here in Cali. My car is heavily modified with RMS suspension and reworked engine compartment. Thanks again for the insight I appreciate the info.
 
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