Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???

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Ok what degree do you have? Internet posting?


I gave a degree in making junk **** work.

If your brother is so smart, why is he not here, telling us how stupid we are?

Take all those degrees and burn them.

If your brother believes what you posted he’s wrong too.

Get over it. I’ll keep telling people to speed up the pump and you keep telling them about your brother and all his degrees.

You are wrong. Go deal with it. That’s a YOU issue.
 
That NBT is a real ***. Has nothing worth saying so he tries to piss you off. My degree from M.I.T. Doesn't mean anything to him. He has nothing to say that helps just parrots what others say. Don't let him get to you.
 
I gave a degree in making junk **** work.

If your brother is so smart, why is he not here, telling us how stupid we are?

Take all those degrees and burn them.

If your brother believes what you posted he’s wrong too.

Get over it. I’ll keep telling people to speed up the pump and you keep telling them about your brother and all his degrees.

You are wrong. Go deal with it. That’s a YOU issue.
That little essay tells me you don’t know shite so go preach somewhere else. What a clown
 
Ceedawg,
Smarter people than all of us [ including your brother ] have proved that increasing coolant flow reduces coolant temp. Howard Stewart, founder of Stewart water pumps built his own w/pump dyno & testing rig over 30 yrs ago & tested all of this stuff. He was not the only one....

If the coolant stays in the rad 'longer,' then it also stays in the engine longer because it is a closed loop system; that would mean the coolant will now be hotter when it gets to the rad for cooling.....
 
IMHO, from what I've read, it sounds like everyone is right to some extent.

The lower the flow rate, the more efficient the thermal transfer. This does not mean higher flow rates do not provide any additional cooling by pushing more through in a given period of time. There is a point where increasing the flow rate is completely offset by the efficiency loss, but there is little chance of finding it. Cavitation would be a problem first. Adding gpm is like adding rows to the radiator or running an engine driven or electric fan. It isn't as efficient as a one row and moving at 45+ mph, but it still helps.

Reduced flow rate (such as underdrive pulleys) reduces the parasitic loss which can be ok when the engine doesn't produce much more or anymore power than stock and the cooling system is adequate at low speed and pump rpm.
 
Yes, that is correct and what keeps it in longer, the restriction caused by the thermo. No matter how fast you pump it the thermo only allows so much coolant to get by so you can keep a minimum operating temp. I think the best way to look at this is we all have different views on the matter. If your system is working, it's because the whole system is in sink. If the system is not working, I would look for a clog of some kind first [ block thermo rad.] before I started messing around with pullies. A lot of what NBT says is correct, I just think its pretty shitty to say the things he says to people who disagree with him. We are all here to discuss things and maybe offer some help to others, not put down other members.
 
Ok I’ll give my real life experience, the engine got so hot it melted the bond between the insulator and metal base of each spark plug (could wiggle them all) causing 2, (iirc) plugs to fall out of the head still with wire attached. I stopped (going down interstate 81) because I heard the popping noise, there was no indication it was overheating (idiot light didn’t work) after cooling on side of road I got the 2 plugs back in the head then drove to a gas station. The attendant was getting off shift and said he would drive over the store to get me 8 plugs. He loaned me the SP wrench to replace, $20 (1968) so after getting to my girlfriends house in Roanoke (with no tools) a neighbor said I ought to check TS, found out it didn’t have one so put one in, also wire was off heat sending unit. On 4 hour drive back it NEVER overheated again (checking every 30-40 miles). I had opened the radiator cap before adding TS and water look like river rapids, after TS and hot it barely moved. Driving around town it might have never been a problem but going up the mountain out of Charlottesville it pushed it past its comfort zone then going 65 down 81 made it worse.
 
I just think its pretty shitty to say the things he says to people who disagree with him. We are all here to discuss things and maybe offer some help to others, not put down other members.
This part , I agree with with. Don't let his disrespectful replies cloud your judgment about what he says, right or wrong, about the subject. Some people feel the way to elevate themselves is to put others down.
 
i'm not smart enough to always know why but if all my many old Mopars eventually have all ran cool all these decades...... I just I don't need a degree in auto cooling!?? :thumbsup: :BangHead: :poke: :rofl: :steering:
 
True you don't need a degree but know that somewhere down the line a person with one figured out how to make them run cool and efficient. I'm glad you don't have problems. Happy trails.
 
Yes, that is correct and what keeps it in longer, the restriction caused by the thermo. No matter how fast you pump it the thermo only allows so much coolant to get by so you can keep a minimum operating temp. I think the best way to look at this is we all have different views on the matter. If your system is working, it's because the whole system is in sink. If the system is not working, I would look for a clog of some kind first [ block thermo rad.] before I started messing around with pullies. A lot of what NBT says is correct, I just think its pretty shitty to say the things he says to people who disagree with him. We are all here to discuss things and maybe offer some help to others, not put down other members.


You know what is shitty? Is how many times I’ve laid out, in detail why slowing the pump down is WRONG.

I’ve said it nice. I’ve even posted links.

Bewy in this very thread has posted links to the best tech pages on the web about this.

And yet, people like you and CeeDawg want to come on here with anecdotes and old wives tales about cooling and no matter what you think of me all that **** is WRONG.

Do YOU love getting WRONG information? I ******* hate that especially when the truth is easily gained.

So yeah, I get pissed off over guys like you, with your thin skin coming on a public information exchange, promoting things that are verifiably WRONG and when given proof you turn your nose up, double down on wrong and ignore the truth.

Since I still in the engine building/tuning business I have to deal with bad information on a daily basis.

I don’t get paid to be on the phone, correcting **** that guys read on forums. It’s a waste of my time. Yet it’s a regular occurrence.

So get your *** off your high horse, put in your big boy pants, disabuse yourself of the notion that you understand cooking systems and see if you can learn the truth.

I hope I didn’t bruise your sensitive feelings with my harsh response.

It gets very old very fast repeating over and over and over basic things that guys make mistakes on. And don’t forget about confirmation bias because that happens.
 
This part , I agree with with. Don't let his disrespectful replies cloud your judgment about what he says, right or wrong, about the subject. Some people feel the way to elevate themselves is to put others down.
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Respect is earned. You haven’t earned my respect yet.
 
You are so wrong it’s not funny. The PROOF is in the science.

Slowing coolant flow to increase cooling is like shitting your pants and changing your shirt.
Well, as I've said multiple times in this thread, I've already proven it twice, back to back in both my vehicles, so I know slowing down coolant flow is wrong as it can be. If people would just use their brains for two seconds, they'd see it too.
 
Well, as I've said multiple times in this thread, I've already proven it twice, back to back in both my vehicles, so I know slowing down coolant flow is wrong as it can be. If people would just use their brains for two seconds, they'd see it too.


We know Stewart Components has excellent tech on this.

So does Flowkooler. They explain it so even I can understand it. Yet no one wants to read for themselves.

They want an easy bake oven answer.

Hell, even the FSM shows Chrysler was speeding up the pumps.

You can bet not one of these guys will be on the phone Monday telling Stewart Components how stupid they are. They don’t have the balls to do that.

If they were right and knew WTF they were talking about they would call them and set them straight because they are (evidently and according to the sharps on here) dead wrong and giving out bad information.

You can bet that won’t happen. For one they don’t want proof they are wrong and two, they can’t support their position on here. They won’t last long on a phone call.
 
The lower the flow rate, the more efficient the thermal transfer.
This just isn't true. Sure, if you slow coolant flow more heat is pulled out. But doing that also means more heat is being transferred to the coolant in the block.

Rate of heat transfer is not linear. It's dependent in part by the difference in temperature between the two surfaces. Which mean as the coolant temp decreases in the radiator, the rate of heat transfer also decreases. Thus, the longer the residence time, the less efficient the system is. Increasing flow maximizes efficiency and allows the thermostat to do its job.
 
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We know Stewart Components has excellent tech on this.

So does Flowkooler. They explain it so even I can understand it. Yet no one wants to read for themselves.

They want an easy bake oven answer.

Hell, even the FSM shows Chrysler was speeding up the pumps.

You can bet not one of these guys will be on the phone Monday telling Stewart Components how stupid they are. They don’t have the balls to do that.

If they were right and knew WTF they were talking about they would call them and set them straight because they are (evidently and according to the sharps on here) dead wrong and giving out bad information.

You can bet that won’t happen. For one they don’t want proof they are wrong and two, they can’t support their position on here. They won’t last long on a phone call.
It's not hard to see that the design of the radiator itself slows water flow down enough to shed heat. It doesn't need slowing down further.
 
Well, if you can't stop being an asshole how do you expect to be respected. You're just showing your ignorance being nasty. If your tired of repeating yourself shut up and stop commenting. I have no doubt you are a very qualified mechanic. I do have respect for you in that aspect. I just don't understand why you have to be so insulting to fellow members. I'm not thin skinned but, it took me 4 years to get my master's in engineering and for you to say degrees are bullshit is an insult to all those who figured out how to make things work and I don't just mean cars. If you are uneducated that's too bad but, I bet you have a **** load of experience, and nothing beats that. So, I'm asking, just take it easy on people. Remember you get what you give, and that's no bullshit. Have a wonderful day.:thumbsup:
 
Well, if you can't stop being an asshole how do you expect to be respected. You're just showing your ignorance being nasty. If your tired of repeating yourself shut up and stop commenting. I have no doubt you are a very qualified mechanic. I do have respect for you in that aspect. I just don't understand why you have to be so insulting to fellow members. I'm not thin skinned but, it took me 4 years to get my master's in engineering and for you to say degrees are bullshit is an insult to all those who figured out how to make things work and I don't just mean cars. If you are uneducated that's too bad but, I bet you have a **** load of experience, and nothing beats that. So, I'm asking, just take it easy on people. Remember you get what you give, and that's no bullshit. Have a wonderful day.:thumbsup:
There's enough evidence in the science and real world applications that there's no need to get personal. After a while though, it does get tiresome when people still cannot see it, so I can understand some frustration.
 
I understand his frustration. My original thoughts on the subject where if you are having a cooling problem why would you suggest putting on pullies to speed up the flow? If the vehicle cooled off when it was new it would make sense to look for the problem. ie. blockage in the block, Rad. or thermo. before messing with pullies. I understand all the tech and I wrote the NBT is not wrong in what he is saying. It's just the way he says it. If you read my last post, I said I have no doubt he is a very good mechanic with lots of experience. I'm not arguing what he is saying in fact I have read up on cooling articles and realized I was saying things wrong, and I no longer disagree with him. Just stop being so negative and down on everybody.
 
Well, if you can't stop being an asshole how do you expect to be respected. You're just showing your ignorance being nasty. If your tired of repeating yourself shut up and stop commenting. I have no doubt you are a very qualified mechanic. I do have respect for you in that aspect. I just don't understand why you have to be so insulting to fellow members. I'm not thin skinned but, it took me 4 years to get my master's in engineering and for you to say degrees are bullshit is an insult to all those who figured out how to make things work and I don't just mean cars. If you are uneducated that's too bad but, I bet you have a **** load of experience, and nothing beats that. So, I'm asking, just take it easy on people. Remember you get what you give, and that's no bullshit. Have a wonderful day.:thumbsup:


And that’s why I have you on ignore. If I’m too harsh for you stop saying stupid **** because you are THAT wrong.

You can have your own opinions but you are not entitled to your own facts.

The FACT is you are WRONG and here you are doubling down on wrong and bitching because I don’t respect you.

Go cry somewhere else. This hobby is expensive and time consuming.

If people listen to you, they’ll be back on here, wondering why their **** runs hot and we go through this very subject AGAIN.

You want some respect? Get on the phone Monday with Stewart Components and TELL them they are wrong. Do it. Because that’s what you think right?

They have to be wrong. So don’t treat them any differently than you do me. Tell them your anecdotes and remind them of all your degrees and make sure you include your family and all their degrees.

Make sure you tell them they are wrong for claiming to speed up the water pump because you KNOW that the coolant MUST stay in the radiator longer to cool better.

Tell them a that and then let’s us know what they say. Take notes so you are accurate.

I’ll wait patiently until Monday afternoon to see your response.
 
I understand his frustration. My original thoughts on the subject where if you are having a cooling problem why would you suggest putting on pullies to speed up the flow? If the vehicle cooled off when it was new it would make sense to look for the problem. ie. blockage in the block, Rad. or thermo. before messing with pullies. I understand all the tech and I wrote the NBT is not wrong in what he is saying. It's just the way he says it. If you read my last post, I said I have no doubt he is a very good mechanic with lots of experience. I'm not arguing what he is saying in fact I have read up on cooling articles and realized I was saying things wrong, and I no longer disagree with him. Just stop being so negative and down on everybody.
Well, most people who are "here" have vehicles that put out power above stock. Sometimes people forget that performance applications differ from their stock counterparts. Even mild builds are different in their needs. Oftentimes, the cooling system is forgotten about and people wonder why their vehicles are running hot. The stock cooling systems in these are usually pretty adequate, but sometimes, people do stupid things like leaving shrouds off, adding el cheapo electric fans and on and on. Just because you see it in a magazine doesn't mean it'll work. THose guys get the best of the best of parts thrown at them by sponsors and then people run out and try to duplicate that with the cheapest junk they can find. It's always a recipe for disaster. That's why I always advise people to put the cooling system back as close to stock as they can. If that doesn't cure the over heating, it comes close and now they have a good base line to which to modify on. It usually doesn't take "much more" than stock to cool most engines. I'm unsure that any stock radiator was a true high efficiency unit. A real high efficiency radiator has 14-16 fins per inch. I've never seen a factory radiator with fins grouped that close. A true high efficiency two row with rows 1.25 or 1.5 inches wide will cool just about anything you can throw at it. But telling people that is like talking to a brick wall when they've just spent 200 bucks on a POS chinkesium pile of junk "radiator". Nobody wants to hear that their brand new shiny thing is a piece of crap. And honestly, that's what wrong with 90% or more of these over heating problems. They cheaped out on the radiator and got a piece of crap.
 
Some of the engines I work with, you can't change pulleys sizes.
No alternate pulleys, no room .
With or without the turbo .

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My X was not always right...but she was never, never, never wrong!!!!! That has nothing to do with the discussion here,,,,, just more tidbits of knowledge!! Go figure.

I will add this. I well remember discussions from, some Mopar engineers on the mags decades ago (when we had good Mopar mags with tech) said, a third row cools no better than a 2 row, because that 3rd row would not catch the proper amount of air. Dunno.
 
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