FiTech EFI system

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Johnny Pace said:
Morning,

Looks like ya'll have established the FCC can be mounted rearward. I dont have a problem with that, and it cuts down on the vent line needed. Not a ton of guys running the FCC are using another electric pump to fill it, but thats not a problem either. If you're using relays in the rear, I would have the pump wire from the fitech run to your relay, and then use the relay to split the wires to the 2 pumps. (fcc and holley)

another thought is, you already apparently have fuel gravity feeding to that holley pump, or it wouldn't be working...so i would think this is one of the few instances where just getting the fitech in line fuel pump would be the better option than having one electric pump, send fuel to yet another electric pump.

if you want a rear mounted return line...instead of using the fcc unit, you can throw one of these in there back by the tank. then you can deadhead the line after it up to the fitech.

http://paceperformance.com/i-5146444-pac-9926-pace-pac-efi-fuel-filter-with-regulator-package.html
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thanks for your advice . I already had the Holley pump hooked up to run Holley 950 cfm 4150. changing to fitech for the tuning capability so it will be no problem to just put the fcc in line . View attachment 20160327_014957.jpg

View attachment 20160327_015117.jpg
 
one last question. when setting up the unit for cubic inches do I set the stock displacement or the displacement after the engine mods for instance engine is a 440 but after mods cubic inches are 500 cu in so what would I put for setting
 
Actual engine cid. Bore x stroke x cyls.
 
Has any one tried running there Fitech with progressive linkage instead of the one to one that it comes set up with ? I think this would make it a little less punchy at low speed...
 
Never mind.... Tried it myself.... works great....Some mods my be required.
 
Initial fire up on my 440 engine was not at all the desired out come I was looking for.
The engine spit and sputtered and would not idle at all. I had to hold my foot on the accelerator to keep it running . I set the handheld to the setting I wanted and had to reset it twice and I was sure to hit enter after each setting .But just when I was cursing fitech and threating to call them in the morning. I read were it says some engine may require an idle screw adjustment . I would recommend everyone do this before the initial fire. after I did this adjustment the car fired and ran. The idle was erratic and would go from 900 to 2000 to 1500 and settled at the 1000 that I had input . So at that point I was tired and went to bed. This morning I went out and hit the key and it fired instantly and idle was perfect after warm up I hit the accelerator and it took awhile for the rev to come back to normal. I expect it may be still be learning. On the control it says its trying to hit a 13.80 afr is that would it should be ? I'm loving it though there was no holding the throttle till warm up to get it to idle just hit the key and wham bam thank you mam she fired and idle perfect. Until I hit it and it still take awhile to get back to normal idle. Any input ?
 
Takes a while to learn and you still need to adjust it plenty.

Check the "dashboard", your IAC count should be 5-15 at warm idle. With the key off, adjust the idle screw to be plenty open, fire it up and then slowly close the idle screw until the IAC count falls in that range.

The rest is a matter of driving and tuning. Go to their tech page and download the definitions pdf. To get a good idle, I reduced my idle fuel learning to less than 10 after giving it a few minutes to learn the trim.
 
Phreakish said:
Takes a while to learn and you still need to adjust it plenty.

Check the "dashboard", your IAC count should be 5-15 at warm idle. With the key off, adjust the idle screw to be plenty open, fire it up and then slowly close the idle screw until the IAC count falls in that range.

The rest is a matter of driving and tuning. Go to their tech page and download the definitions pdf. To get a good idle, I reduced my idle fuel learning to less than 10 after giving it a few minutes to learn the trim.
Click to expand...

sounds like a carb...need to adjust..
 
70aarcuda said:
sounds like a carb...need to adjust..
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but far easier - push a button, not "disassemble and hope there's no crud in a tiny hole some place" ;)

I've put quite a few miles on mine so far, and I'm pleased. The idle adjustment is quick, but is sensitive to idle timing and desired RPM.

I did a bunch of tweaking to get it just how I wanted, but even just leaving it alone was 100% better than the carb it replaced.

The fact that it will fire on the first turn of the key after parking it hot says it all (I know some don't have this issue, it plagued me something fierce).
 
Phreakish said:
but far easier - push a button, not "disassemble and hope there's no crud in a tiny hole some place" ;)

I've put quite a few miles on mine so far, and I'm pleased. The idle adjustment is quick, but is sensitive to idle timing and desired RPM.

I did a bunch of tweaking to get it just how I wanted, but even just leaving it alone was 100% better than the carb it replaced.

The fact that it will fire on the first turn of the key after parking it hot says it all (I know some don't have this issue, it plagued me something fierce).
Click to expand...

Can you post your values that you have? I still have a off idle stumble/extreme lean situation. I can be coasting at 45 mph, TPS is 0.0, I tip in to say 5-7% TPS and I go to 20.0 AFR for a half second or longer and it just falls on its face unless I stomp on the gas pedal.
 
rednesss said:
Can you post your values that you have? I still have a off idle stumble/extreme lean situation. I can be coasting at 45 mph, TPS is 0.0, I tip in to say 5-7% TPS and I go to 20.0 AFR for a half second or longer and it just falls on its face unless I stomp on the gas pedal.
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I still have that too. I'll have to pull up some values and share them.

My stumble comes in only at medium revs (3k or so), with very very very light cruise throttle input. If I just 'ease' into it, say for a hill or wind gust, etc, it will shoot up to 18~20 and stall, then come back. Quite annoying.

I've tried running cruise target AFR of 12.9 to 15, and it's always there to some extent. It seems to be related to the 'tipout' values that are listed in the definitions, but not accessible on my handheld. The 'tipout' reduces fuel input so that the engine doesn't go rich as it digests the fuel off the intake manifold walls - which means if you tip out and then back in, you catch the computer with it's pants down. It's pulling fuel right when you give it a big gulp of air and *boooooooooooog*

I've tried playing with the accel pump settings, and it helps to some degree. But the problem is that once I set the gain on the accel pump high enough to address it, a WOT stab at 3k on the freeway causes my AFR to drop to 10.2 or 10.0 and won't climb back into the 12's until I'm waAAAAAaay beyond legal speeds. I've been meaning to reset my fuel learning and setting the gain higher again to see if I can 'train' it to respond properly and without the lean spike on tip-in, but haven't gotten to that yet. It just drives so nice everywhere else.
 
I've tried the same. I'd prefer not to have to set the accel pump setting that high too, because I get the same thing. It goes pig rich.
 
Just finished installing my Go EFI 4 600HP unit on 67 barracuda with 273 motor. I am using the inline pump supplied by Fitech. When I start it up, it goes 3000rpm+ and stays there, even after it warms up. I cannot adjust the idle screw any lower.

any ideas?
 
cuda_roller said:
Just finished installing my Go EFI 4 600HP unit on 67 barracuda with 273 motor. I am using the inline pump supplied by Fitech. When I start it up, it goes 3000rpm+ and stays there, even after it warms up. I cannot adjust the idle screw any lower.

any ideas?
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What did you set idle as on the handheld?
 
I will check for leaks tomorrow and change the gasket for good measure. Yes, it was running on a carter afb carb.
 
Ran fine on the carb?

If it did I'd suspect a vacuum leak under the throttle body. Did you torque the nuts down?
 
ran fine on carb, I just changed out the intake manifold gasket and tightened the fitech down. I cannot find any vacuum leaks. also tightened down the intake manifold. it's around 2krpm now. I let it run for a few minutes and it dipped below 2k. Maybe t needs to be driven for it to learn?
 
cuda_roller said:
ran fine on carb, I just changed out the intake manifold gasket and tightened the fitech down. I cannot find any vacuum leaks. also tightened down the intake manifold. it's around 2krpm now. I let it run for a few minutes and it dipped below 2k. Maybe t needs to be driven for it to learn?
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If I were you, I'd start a new thread and we can help you there in detail.
Once you start that thread, do this:

Go to the 'dashboard' and tell us what it's showing.
List the values for 'MAP', 'TPS', 'Target RPM', 'IAC Steps', 'IAC Learn', 'Run State', and tell us if anything is found under Fault1, Fault2, Fault3, or Fault4.

With those, we can help you troubleshoot - or call FiTech and see if they can help.
 
rednesss said:
I've tried the same. I'd prefer not to have to set the accel pump setting that high too, because I get the same thing. It goes pig rich.
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I began reading through the definitions some more.
Under PRO TUNING, and then under 6. REV LIMIT DECEL CUT, there are values labelled Dfco. These are Decel Fuel Cut Off. Basically, when the throttle is closed or closing it will turn off the fuel below a certain MAP value, and then add the fuel back once above it again.

My default settings for cut map (03) is 28.00, and the return value (04) is 30.00

Looking at some logs, my car is cruising at 26-35 depending on the grade of the road with the TPS between 5 and 12. When my TPS drops below 5, my MAP value will drop to 12-22.

So what I'm going to do is set my cut MAP (03) to 19 or 20, and the return value (04) to 22 and see if that helps.

The Dfco Return Fuel (05) is the amount of fuel it adds back when the MAP reaches the trigger point (30 default, and I'll be setting it to 22). This should be tuned so that when you go from very low or closed throttle (Coast) to slightly open, the AFR shouldn't go rich, but should return to a normal range rapidly.

Probably take me a few days to get some miles on it to test this theory, but looking at the logs I'd bet that's what's happening.
 
Thanks Phreakish! I will look at my settings. I will create a new thread if I have further issues.
 
I have adjusted down the " rev limit decel cut" as well and it reduced the amount of backfiring I used to get when I got off the gas from a cruising rpm.
 
ken5124 said:
I have adjusted down the " rev limit decel cut" as well and it reduced the amount of backfiring I used to get when I got off the gas from a cruising rpm.
Click to expand...

Luckily, I barely have that issue. I get a decent rumble and the occasional 'poof', but it doesn't shoot ducks the way my bike does!

I'm planning to log another 50 miles today and tomorrow - we'll have to see if the dfco helps with the part throttle tip-in bog.
 
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