FiTech EFI system

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I did notice that was mentioned very specifically about 100 times in the instructions....
 
Does anybody know what the thoughts are for welding once this is installed? I want to weld an O2 bung in to my exhaust, am I ok to just disconnect battery ground like on newer vehicles? And I shouldn't loose what it has self learned based on what the manual says.
 
I haven't installed one yet, but I have several friends that have used the clamp on bungs on other projects with zero issues, your call though
 
JoeSBP said:
I did notice that was mentioned very specifically about 100 times in the instructions....
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Lol...just like the phasable rotor that guys still try to get around using? You can lead a horse to EFI...but cant make it read the instructions....or something like that ;)
 
Johnny Pace said:
Yes, they are just sold by size. Many Accel pn's are in the process of going discontinued after the msd acquisition....which was followed immediately by the holley acquisition. But I can see if they have any left. I think they were more money though.
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FYI this is the wiring diagram that I followed for the timing control setup. Currently the coil neg is connected to the black wire on the fitech unit and then the distributor is plugged into the Fitech (green/purple) plug. The only thing connecting the coil to distributor is the main wire.

IMG_9400.JPG
 
72Duster440 said:
I got mine installed the other day, I replaced the dizzy as well and I still need to set the timing. While it is at an idle, it doesn't sound like it's firing on all 8, although checking the temp of the primaries they all we're the same temp so I think it's loading up. While it was idling it only took about 30 seconds until my eyes were burning so bad I had to shut it off. The A/F read correctly, my thoughts are I have an exhaust leak and it's sucking in some air, causing the computer to throw more fuel at it. Does this sound possible?
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I had a similar issue with my loading up, in fact the plugs are black when pulled them out. Did you try leaning out the AFR at idle? I have mine set at 15 right now and according to FI Tech I can go as high as 16.
 
Johnny Pace said:
I want to make a statement real quick that the vent line on the FCC NEEDS to be ran to a WORKING vent. and INTO THE TANK. THe vent is not OPTIONAL, and not to be ran to a charcoal canister. It 100% needs ran to the tank, and to be a vented system.

another replaced the tank vent line, with the FCC vent. this does NOT make it a vented system...you're pushing fumes into a completely sealed tank at that point unless by mere chance, it vents through the cap. which is NOT adequate.

thats my public service announcement for the day. :)
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Johnny, first of all, thanks for all your help and support. I recently finished installing the FiTech in my Coronet, posted the install over on the B Body side, starting at #70. I have a question about your statements on the venting. The Coronet has two vent lines coming out of the sending unit in the tank. I plumbed the vent line from the FCC directly into one of the vents; the other line vents normally. Now I'm wondering if the tank is still properly vented, what are your thoughts? To your point above, it's a non-vented gas cap.
FiTech efi

BTW, the battery is in the trunk and the power lead from the ECU is terminated at the + side of the solenoid switch in the trunk. The system fired up first time, no issues. Only have about 100 miles on the FI, and the car for that matter, just finished a 2 year resto.
 
RBConvert said:
Johnny, first of all, thanks for all your help and support. I recently finished installing the FiTech in my Coronet, posted the install over on the B Body side, starting at #70. I have a question about your statements on the venting. The Coronet has two vent lines coming out of the sending unit in the tank. I plumbed the vent line from the FCC directly into one of the vents; the other line vents normally. Now I'm wondering if the tank is still properly vented, what are your thoughts? To your point above, it's a non-vented gas cap.
FiTech efi

BTW, the battery is in the trunk and the power lead from the ECU is terminated at the + side of the solenoid switch in the trunk. The system fired up first time, no issues. Only have about 100 miles on the FI, and the car for that matter, just finished a 2 year resto.
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Glad the install was smooth. Hopefully you got it from us.lol. sounds to me like your setup is just fine. Especislly if you have some miles on it with no issues. You actuslly have the perfect setup...you luckily had one vent to re-use. And another to vent the tank still. After a nice long cruise you can crack the cap and listen for the typical "whoosh" of a vapor lock, but I highly doubt that you will have that, unless a line is clogged.
 
If your FCC stops working you my want to CK the 6pin
connecter and see if the power wire to the FCC has not melted
as mine did..
Bypassed it on the road (parking lot) all is good now...
 
Johnny Pace said:
Glad the install was smooth. Hopefully you got it from us.lol. sounds to me like your setup is just fine. Especislly if you have some miles on it with no issues. You actuslly have the perfect setup...you luckily had one vent to re-use. And another to vent the tank still. After a nice long cruise you can crack the cap and listen for the typical "whoosh" of a vapor lock, but I highly doubt that you will have that, unless a line is clogged.
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Thanks for the quick response. I've gassed up twice, and no "whoosh". And I bought the unit last July/Aug direct from FiTech before I know about you and Pace, in fact I don't believe they had any distribution network yet. When I convert the Dart I will certainly patronize your company.
 
If anyone has to replace the O2 sensor, it is Bosch part # 17014. Fitech didn't have a part number, just that it came from a volkswagen GTI 2003, 1.8 litre.

I thought I was having a moisture issue with mine, causing the sensor to read a solid 14.4 intermittently... Found out the expensive way that I hurt the harness wires with a plastic tie wrap ( too tight) .. Once moisture got near the damaged wires, the damage allowed it to malfunction, throwing codes 134 and 105. replaced with this Bosch Part number, Canadian price taxes in, 182 dollars.

The new one has a longer wiring harness, if anyone needs. It allowed me to get the harness connector further up away from road spray.
 
Does anyone know if you can parallel the tach terminal off an MSD box for the FiTech and a tach gauge simultaneously or does the FiTech need a clean uninterrupted connection?

Thanks.
 
SalC said:
Does anyone know if you can parallel the tach terminal off an MSD box for the FiTech and a tach gauge simultaneously or does the FiTech need a clean uninterrupted connection?

Thanks.
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Prior to changing it to timing control, I ran mine that way off my MSD6 and it worked fine.
 
Received my FiTech unit today (thanks Johnny!). Has a little smell of fuel to it, I'm guessing it was tested for quality :)

Question for some of you guys that have yours up and running. Maybe this depends on individual applications but are any defaults parameters that should be changed to start with? I'm not planning on doing the timing control off the bat, just want to get it up and running.

If it helps my Barracuda is a 383 with a Edlebrock 7194 cam, manual shift automatic, 2800 stall, 4:11 gear. MSD6 box with MSD Billet distributor. Currently running a Edelbrock 750cfm Performer 1407 carb.
 
SalC said:
Received my FiTech unit today (thanks Johnny!). Has a little smell of fuel to it, I'm guessing it was tested for quality :)

Question for some of you guys that have yours up and running. Maybe this depends on individual applications but are any defaults parameters that should be changed to start with? I'm not planning on doing the timing control off the bat, just want to get it up and running.

If it helps my Barracuda is a 383 with a Edlebrock 7194 cam, manual shift automatic, 2800 stall, 4:11 gear. MSD6 box with MSD Billet distributor. Currently running a Edelbrock 750cfm Performer 1407 carb.
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Just input your basics and fire it up. On the cam selection (1-4), go with a more conservative estimate. Unless you really have a radical cam or race oriented setup, either 1 or 2 should work in most cases.
 
would a Comp Cams XR292HR-10 be a 1 or a 2?
 
Once the FiTech is fitted, thats exactly what I'm hoping for..

..my Valiant will go to 11.

One Louder.
 
For those who asked about the Rev-N-Nator ECU and Firecore distributor, it SOUNDS like it will work. The distributor is phasable and can be locked out per the manufacturer. And also on the back of the ECU, there is a tach signal wire that I imagine will work. ( REV-N-NATOR Rides - Mopar Restoration and Performance Services in Belle Plaine, MN ) Unfortunately my fresh build has a fresh knock to it :(. Once I figure it out, I'll be attempting to install my meanstreet EFI. I have a new return line that I need to put in, put in O2 sensor, the fcc will go in front of the radiator support hopefully. Hoping to have it ready to race at the mopar Nats in the stick class. :)
 
Does anyone know if you can extend the O2 sensor wiring? Mine looks like it's going to be pretty tight, have to go beyond the header collector (ceramic coated).
 
SalC said:
Does anyone know if you can extend the O2 sensor wiring? Mine looks like it's going to be pretty tight, have to go beyond the header collector (ceramic coated).
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I had to extend mine about 15" and have had no issues.
 
SalC said:
Does anyone know if you can extend the O2 sensor wiring? Mine looks like it's going to be pretty tight, have to go beyond the header collector (ceramic coated).
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Bosch O2 sensor part number is 17014 and the wiring harness is longer

Larry
 
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