having a little issue...

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broken ring...in many pieces.... well duder, it detonated.

lol..you fk'd up somewhere in the tune/timing area cause the dynamic is where 87 octane lives.
thats straight.

did you ever feel a surge?

you need to get a real convertor, not one the drags rpm down at idle.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
broken ring...in many pieces.... well duder, it detonated.

lol..you fk'd up somewhere in the tune/timing area cause the dynamic is where 87 octane lives.
thats straight.

did you ever feel a surge?

you need to get a real convertor, not one the drags rpm down at idle.
Click to expand...

i know i need the converter... as for a surge no
 
805moparkid said:
yea the slant has got to stay but thank u! im gonna need help putting it back in... there a *****, 1 hr to take out 4 hrs to put back in... i mean.... i just need an extra set of hands it easy!! haha
Click to expand...
let me know and I'll give you a hand. I'm busy until the 20th of nov, goaat a few hemi trucks wanting cams. So until that is done I gotta keep working on them. But anytime after that is cool. Besides what is 4 hours? That's nothing. After all we would be turning wrenches on a mopar lol
 
03ramit1 said:
let me know and I'll give you a hand. I'm busy until the 20th of nov, goaat a few hemi trucks wanting cams. So until that is done I gotta keep working on them. But anytime after that is cool. Besides what is 4 hours? That's nothing. After all we would be turning wrenches on a mopar lol
Click to expand...

i ahvn't even meet u and i like u! haha
 
lol and I live around the corner too lol if you need help during the week let me know I'm bassically available anytime after 4
 
03ramit1 said:
lol and I live around the corner too lol if you need help during the week let me know I'm bassically available anytime after 4
Click to expand...

sweet! i get off around 5.30 so when its time to start assembly again i'll give u a ring
 
805moparkid said:
28int 36 total, factory curve, i bought the light springs so i can put those on to
Click to expand...

Most slant six engines like less then 30 degrees total timing without vacumm connected. Then add the vac, to that.
It is not possible to have 28 initial and 36 total with a factory curve in the dist. That would be only 8 degrees centrifical advance in the distributer.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Most slant six engines like less then 30 degrees total timing without vacumm connected. Then add the vac, to that.
It is not possible to have 28 initial and 36 total with a factory curve in the dist. That would be only 8 degrees centrifical advance in the distributer.
Click to expand...

I ran 32-34* total in my slant with best results, it's all relative to the combo.

I wondered about the timing #'s too, but assumed he welded up the slot yet left the factory springs in.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Most slant six engines like less then 30 degrees total timing without vacumm connected. Then add the vac, to that.
It is not possible to have 28 initial and 36 total with a factory curve in the dist. That would be only 8 degrees centrifical advance in the distributer.
Click to expand...
im not running a vac adv. as for the timing i had it at 25 the last time i checked and it went to 34-35 so you were right 10* mechanical. sry.

i dont even think it would run with that little of timing
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I ran 32-34* total in my slant with best results, it's all relative to the combo.
Click to expand...
Very true, notice I said "most".
I wondered about the timing #'s too, but assumed he welded up the slot yet left the factory springs in.
Click to expand...

If he welded the slots, then it would not be the "stock" curve. With a performance modified slant, it is almost mandatory to weld the slots and run more initial, and limit total advance,
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
so what are gonna do, and whats your idea of what happened?
Click to expand...

home the block, new rings, recurve the dizzy and my dad might help me spring for a converter.

for the dizzy curve u think 25int 34 total so 9* mech advance and it should be all in at like 2000K or lower?

thx guys
 
Charrlie_S said:
Very true, notice I said "most".


If he welded the slots, then it would not be the "stock" curve. With a performance modified slant, it is almost mandatory to weld the slots and run more initial, and limit total advance,
Click to expand...

stock dizzy with petratronix #2 ignitor
 
pulled the rest of the bottom end out. 2 other pistons had a broken top ring, the rest were fine. timing chain sounds kinda noisy tho when just spining the motor over
 
Your timing set should NOT be noisy this soon. What set is it? I usually spring for a double row set. You can get one for less than 100 and its cheap insurance.
Frank
 
was the cam degreed in?

generally, as the chain wears it retards the cam timing.
but as it wears, upon loading and unloading.. the cam timing can jump all over the place both ways.
 
66aCUDA said:
Your timing set should NOT be noisy this soon. What set is it? I usually spring for a double row set. You can get one for less than 100 and its cheap insurance.
Frank
Click to expand...

1wild&crazyguy said:
was the cam degreed in?

generally, as the chain wears it retards the cam timing.
but as it wears, upon loading and unloading.. the cam timing can jump all over the place both ways.
Click to expand...

i think i went double roller but i'll have to see when i get the dampner off. and no the cam was installed striaght up. can i get a key for 4* adv??
 
most of the time, in my experience, when you stab it 'dot to dot' it ends up advanced, sometimes way advanced.

I have mine in 6* retarded to get 4* advance.
All my motors have been that way with after market stuff even using billet chain sets

the days of just lining it up are way done for me.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
most of the time, in my experience, when you stab it 'dot to dot' it ends up advanced, sometimes way advanced.

I have mine in 6* retarded to get 4* advance.
All my motors have been that way with after market stuff even using billet chain sets

the days of just lining it up are way done for me.
Click to expand...

ah geeze!!! well i dont have a degree wheel and piston tdc stopper, i know how to do it just don't have those tools
 
let me know I have the stuff to degree a cam. And can teach you how it's fairly easy. All you ned are a dial indicator and a degree wheel. Finding tdc is not a big deal and can be done without a piston stop. A dial indicator can find tdc I have done it many many times. So let me know and I'll help ya with it.
 
03ramit1 said:
let me know I have the stuff to degree a cam. And can teach you how it's fairly easy. All you ned are a dial indicator and a degree wheel. Finding tdc is not a big deal and can be done without a piston stop. A dial indicator can find tdc I have done it many many times. So let me know and I'll help ya with it.
Click to expand...

sweet, im going up to my bosses this morn to get a dampner puller, so i can get the rest of the block tore down, left messages and emails for rings, machining, and tq on saturday so will see how much i need monday.

want to deck the block for 9.8:1 comp, and loking at a 3200 stall converter. and slant guys have opinions on converter? thinking 3200 stall 10 or 9.5" A-1 or edge
 
I have had good luck with edge converters behind modern hemi's. And am planning on one for my duster. But I'm not a slant 6 guy.
 
ok broke it down the rest of the way... that double timing chain it way to loose! grr so i need a good roller one. any ideas??

and also i hear there is a cam button for these?

figure i should also do all the oiling mods to...

thx guys
 
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