having a little issue...

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805moparkid said:
ok broke it down the rest of the way... that double timing chain it way to loose! grr so i need a good roller one. any ideas??

and also i hear there is a cam button for these?

figure i should also do all the oiling mods to...

thx guys
Click to expand...

Ed
Who made the double row timing set? Make your own cam stop. Oil mods are a GREAT thing. Groove your cam or cam bearing while you have it apart. Did I read somewhere you have roller rockers, and broke one?
Frank
 
If automatic car, cross drill the crankshaft.

you'll have full time oiling to the bottom end, Thats what I did.

I had to weld a small freeze plug into the back of the crank pilot.

But I could wing ding the motor all decade.
 
66aCUDA said:
Ed
Who made the double row timing set? Make your own cam stop. Oil mods are a GREAT thing. Groove your cam or cam bearing while you have it apart. Did I read somewhere you have roller rockers, and broke one?
Frank
Click to expand...

haha no slant six rocker shafts are the same size as small blocks and bb so i was looking to to some testing...
 
66aCUDA said:
Ed
Who made the double row timing set? Make your own cam stop. Oil mods are a GREAT thing. Groove your cam or cam bearing while you have it apart. Did I read somewhere you have roller rockers, and broke one?
Frank
Click to expand...

it was from autozone, timing chain double row

i am gonna grind the cam a bit to increase oil to the top end, and i already opened the block hole up to match the head gasket but the one in the head is half that size. do i need to go half way from the deck surface and half way thru the rocket stand? how big of a drill should i go up to?

i can't find the oil mod page where it shows what drill to use where.

thx
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
If automatic car, cross drill the crankshaft.

you'll have full time oiling to the bottom end, Thats what I did.

I had to weld a small freeze plug into the back of the crank pilot.

But I could wing ding the motor all decade.
Click to expand...

:dontknow: haha what?
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
loss of pressure at the last main/rods, when you cross drill the crank...you connect all oil feeds from one end o the other.
Click to expand...

interesting! ok so today i ordered the rings from total seal, talked to A1 and they are gonna set me up with a loose 10" converter set at about 3200 flash

still trying to get ahold of the guys at jp for the timing chain
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
loss of pressure at the last main/rods, when you cross drill the crank...you connect all oil feeds from one end o the other.
Click to expand...

My opinion: Cross drilling is a lot of work, and weakens the crank. Using full groove main bearings will get the same results.
PS: what difference does it make if an auto trans or not?

As for upper engine oiling. It is not necessary to drill the oil passage larger. Just cut a small groove all the way around the rear cam journal (on the cam). This will give full flow oil to the top end, instead of "pulse" oil. Don't make the groove very deep or wide. It doesn't take much.
 
Charrlie_S said:
My opinion: Cross drilling is a lot of work, and weakens the crank. Using full groove main bearings will get the same results.
PS: what difference does it make if an auto trans or not?

As for upper engine oiling. It is not necessary to drill the oil passage larger. Just cut a small groove all the way around the rear cam journal (on the cam). This will give full flow oil to the top end, instead of "pulse" oil. Don't make the groove very deep or wide. It doesn't take much.
Click to expand...

like a .030 groove?? on the block the oil hole is matched the the head gasket but the head is small. how but of a drill should i go to clean up the oil galley in the head?? and go half way from the bottom and the other half from the top? thx

1wild&crazyguy said:
It ran cooler too, and besides....it's a 85 lb crank, ''weaken it'', are you serious??

yeah, sure. lol
Click to expand...

hahaha really
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
It ran cooler too, and besides....it's a 85 lb crank, ''weaken it'', are you serious??

yeah, sure. lol
Click to expand...

From slant six.org
not bringing the truck the crank broke and split my trans !! I found a main bolt in the road on my walk back home.Well at least I didn't cause a oil down. I'll post pictures of the carnage in a little bit when my truck gets towed home
Click to expand...
go to this thread, first post on this page for pic. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41905&start=15
 
805moparkid said:
like a .030 groove?? on the block the oil hole is matched the the head gasket but the head is small. how but of a drill should i go to clean up the oil galley in the head?? and go half way from the bottom and the other half from the top? thx
Click to expand...

I don't open up the oil passage in the head, or block. I just use a "cutoff wheel" in a die grinder, and grind a groove, the width of the wheel and about .030 should be good, on the cam. The first one I did, I went too big on the groove, and was flooding the valve train. So I just removed the rocker shaft, and drilled/tapped the oil passage in the rocker stand, for a "allen" pipe plug, with a hole drilled in it for a meetering orifice. Now I drill/tap all my heads, while prepping them, just in case.
 
I do the same trick on the cam as Charrlie. I use my Dremel tool with the reinforced cut-off wheel. I have also done the rear cam journal (cam its self) and that has worked well. I also camfor all the oil holes in the block head and crank. I also cut the head where the oil wont run out where the stands meet the gasket area. I do all this BEFORE it goes to the machine shop.
Frank
 
That crank wasn't broken from cross drilling it.
It was broken due to builder error and or ??


skin yer cat how even you deem fit but know it ain't the final word on this.

.org guys are the most ''my way or the highway'' guys out there, you all seem to do sht the same too.

Not a bash, just an observation.
 
" I also cut the head where the oil wont run out where the stands meet the gasket area."

i understood everything but this frank
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
That crank wasn't broken from cross drilling it.
It was broken due to builder error and or ??


skin yer cat how even you deem fit but know it ain't the final word on this.

.org guys are the most ''my way or the highway'' guys out there, you all seem to do sht the same too.

Not a bash, just an observation.
Click to expand...

I never said it broke from cross drilling. I just made the observation that slant cranks do break, after you made the observation (I thought) that since they are 85 lbs, cross drilling will not weaken it.

That engine was in a 3700 lb street driver truck that runs mid 11's in the 1/4 mile.

As far as "my way or the hiway", anything I post is my "opinion". I am posting what I have done, or what others have done, that I know works. Nothing I post is to be taken as "gospell". It is suggestions. Do your own research. Consider everything, trust nothing.
The reason many slanters do the same thing, is that it works. We take advantage of the research of others.

Many years ago (about 30+) I had problems with failed rod bearings, in my slant race car. I went to full groove main bearings and some minor oil galley mods, and have never had a bearing failure since. Inexpensive, simple, effective. That is why most slanters use full groove mains.

Not trying to start a pi$$ing match, here. Just explaining my thinking/motives. I make suggestions, sometimes with the reasoning, and you can use them or not. Many times myself or others have already "been there, done that", and we pass on our experiance.
 
Charrlie_S said:
I never said it broke from cross drilling. I just made the observation that slant cranks do break, after you made the observation (I thought) that since they are 85 lbs, cross drilling will not weaken it.

That engine was in a 3700 lb street driver truck that runs mid 11's in the 1/4 mile.

As far as "my way or the hiway", anything I post is my "opinion". I am posting what I have done, or what others have done, that I know works. Nothing I post is to be taken as "gospell". It is suggestions. Do your own research. Consider everything, trust nothing.
The reason many slanters do the same thing, is that it works. We take advantage of the research of others.

Many years ago (about 30+) I had problems with failed rod bearings, in my slant race car. I went to full groove main bearings and some minor oil galley mods, and have never had a bearing failure since. Inexpensive, simple, effective. That is why most slanters use full groove mains.

Not trying to start a pi$$ing match, here. Just explaining my thinking/motives. I make suggestions, sometimes with the reasoning, and you can use them or not. Many times myself or others have already "been there, done that", and we pass on our experiance.
Click to expand...

even tho u got going a little bit there is still alot of good info in here! thank , cuz i didn't know about the full groove mains
 
I wish I new how to post pictures. Wife does all that. Any way I cut a small channel where the valve cover gasket area meets the rocker stands so that it is hard for oil to run out when you do any valve adjustments. Remember I have increased oil to the top end from grooving the cam/bearing. This way the oil doesnt run out by the rocker stand areas.
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
I wish I new how to post pictures. Wife does all that. Any way I cut a small channel where the valve cover gasket area meets the rocker stands so that it is hard for oil to run out when you do any valve adjustments. Remember I have increased oil to the top end from grooving the cam/bearing. This way the oil doesnt run out by the rocker stand areas.
Frank
Click to expand...

email me the pictures, and I will post them:

myersz -at- everestkc -dot- net
@ .
 
ok so i want to send it out to deck the block like .020 cut off for a 9.8:1 comp so that when they drop another point it will still run... but anyways im trying to figure out piston to valve clearance. so by putting the piston at tdc (.180 down) thw valve will open .345" till it hits the piston! so i freaked until i pulled my head out of my :bootysha: and realized that the pisont wouldn't be at TDC. so now my question is that do i have to put it all back together to chk it, ie a piston, cam, t lifters, pushrods etc. and spin the motor over to "x" degree crank timing and push the valve down till it hits and then -.100" for clearance??

thx ed

and why is fabo being so slow?:wack:
 
ok so have all my parts and just waiting on the block to get back!

but there were some worries about the valve seats so i pulled the exhayst valves out and there were no burnt ones. so no issues there!

seemed like excessive carbon in the exhaust port tho so im going to back it down to a 67 from a 68. or should i wait till after the engine is runnnig becasue of degreed cam (increase cyl pressure) and new comp, from 9.2 to 9.8.

and why are pv needed? i thought thats what the jets were for??

thx
 
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