I think I would just do the stock stuff.
I need a hydraulic clutch
- Thread starter Dne007
- Start date
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Well, I have the clutch stuff~ I actually could go ahead and install it, install the engine/trans and put my mind at ease
I'm just going to watch some stupid Tv show 
start tomorrow with fresh ideas
start tomorrow with fresh ideas
Dave999
Well-Known Member
always thought this clutch master looked like it would work
first year chevy s10 truck
For Chevy S10 Blazer & GMC S15 Jimmy Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder CSW | eBay
may as well get the fluid bottle as well.....
all of the aftermarmarket ones are straight mount with a milled adapter. this one already has the 45* mounting for the curved bulkhead position . and without having to fit a milled adapter pushing the whole lot an inch or so forward, in theory the end of the cylinder won't be pressing against the shock tower when installed...
you'd need to cut off the rod half way up, thread it and use a balljoint of some kind to attach to the peddle under the dash .
at the trans end
pusher piston from a 3 series BMW
Clutch Slave Cylinder Fits BMW 3 Series E21 E30 5 E12 E28 6 E24 Z1 E3 Febi 01000 | eBay?
again you need to thread it and fit your current washer and insulator, or a truck steel ball so it can push your original clutch arm
mounting bracket on the original stud mounting for the z bar can be made from hardware store angle iron.
if you don't like that the chevy S10 t5 slave might work
(i personally want the bit most likely to fo wrong on the outside not in the bellhousing )
Depends on its bore.... i know that a big block or dodge dakota manual clutch release bearing fits a T5....the S10 used a T5 so it makes some sense to believe that the concentric slave fits a T5 and therefore would fit a dakota or a big block trans... its a risk... junk yard part to test, i'd guess would be the best bet before investing, or take an Input bearing retainer to a chevy dealer and ask to see if it fits.. sometimes you find the tech who is intrigued by your plan.... rather than the one who says year and plate and won't sell you anything if the computer says no...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cylinder-Chevrolet-Suburban-Silverado-1996-2003/dp/B07WCCPNQH?tag=fabo03-20
even so its only £50.... better than $800
you'd just use a stud instead of a bolt for one of your IBR bolts to act as an anti rotation stopper, may need some chunk of ally as a stand...do you know someone with a lathe?
my thinking is brand X OEM parts means spares access, easy.... off rockauto, and tested to destruction by millions of customers over trillions of miles .
Aftermarket, NOT OEM parts, means spares until the supplier goes bust...at elevated prices, and tested by the owner of the company and a few of us.... 100s or 1000s, Not Millions.... on weekend cruisers and race cars that don't do trillions of miles
i'm a cheapskate at heart, or as the Australians would say, a TAVO..... Tight *** valiant owner.
Dave
first year chevy s10 truck
For Chevy S10 Blazer & GMC S15 Jimmy Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder CSW | eBay
may as well get the fluid bottle as well.....
all of the aftermarmarket ones are straight mount with a milled adapter. this one already has the 45* mounting for the curved bulkhead position . and without having to fit a milled adapter pushing the whole lot an inch or so forward, in theory the end of the cylinder won't be pressing against the shock tower when installed...
you'd need to cut off the rod half way up, thread it and use a balljoint of some kind to attach to the peddle under the dash .
at the trans end
pusher piston from a 3 series BMW
Clutch Slave Cylinder Fits BMW 3 Series E21 E30 5 E12 E28 6 E24 Z1 E3 Febi 01000 | eBay?
again you need to thread it and fit your current washer and insulator, or a truck steel ball so it can push your original clutch arm
mounting bracket on the original stud mounting for the z bar can be made from hardware store angle iron.
if you don't like that the chevy S10 t5 slave might work
(i personally want the bit most likely to fo wrong on the outside not in the bellhousing )
Depends on its bore.... i know that a big block or dodge dakota manual clutch release bearing fits a T5....the S10 used a T5 so it makes some sense to believe that the concentric slave fits a T5 and therefore would fit a dakota or a big block trans... its a risk... junk yard part to test, i'd guess would be the best bet before investing, or take an Input bearing retainer to a chevy dealer and ask to see if it fits.. sometimes you find the tech who is intrigued by your plan.... rather than the one who says year and plate and won't sell you anything if the computer says no...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cylinder-Chevrolet-Suburban-Silverado-1996-2003/dp/B07WCCPNQH?tag=fabo03-20
even so its only £50.... better than $800
you'd just use a stud instead of a bolt for one of your IBR bolts to act as an anti rotation stopper, may need some chunk of ally as a stand...do you know someone with a lathe?
my thinking is brand X OEM parts means spares access, easy.... off rockauto, and tested to destruction by millions of customers over trillions of miles .
Aftermarket, NOT OEM parts, means spares until the supplier goes bust...at elevated prices, and tested by the owner of the company and a few of us.... 100s or 1000s, Not Millions.... on weekend cruisers and race cars that don't do trillions of miles
i'm a cheapskate at heart, or as the Australians would say, a TAVO..... Tight *** valiant owner.
Dave
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Wow Dave, that's quite a write-up! 
However, I chose the path of least resistance and am going with the stock mechanical clutch.
However, I chose the path of least resistance and am going with the stock mechanical clutch.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
yeah so did I 
but still had my head full of what if what if....
its empty now
Dave
but still had my head full of what if what if....its empty now
Dave
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
Looking good there DNE...You are incredibly color coordinated. Nice pressure plate...Good choice. I see you went with the KISS philosophy. Keep up the good work. Forgive me if I'm behind here. Is that engine compartment color green the original color for the car?
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
The hot ticket is to use a diaphragm clutch instead of the borg and beck. Then there is no need for the pedal overcenter spring. When you push the pedal in with this set up, its like butter.
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yikes, well, Im' not pulling it back apart~ I'll just have to start doing leg squats
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Yep....You will.yikes, well, Im' not pulling it back apart~ I'll just have to start doing leg squats
At least you are not going with a Chivy, BMW, Audi, Suburu, Foad, Toyota, Porshe, Hyundai clutch.
Ok, here's where I'm at with this~ I've been talking with Jeff at Performance parts warehouse, or www.racetuning.com, it's been several years since we spoke, but he remembered me;) Of course he remembers me, not many cute women call him up on car stuff.
So, I've decided to go with the Mcleod throw out bearing, but am changing out the fingered clutch for a diaphram, finally found one and should be here some day. But I'd like to get the T.O. so I can re-install the transmission. Jeff will give me 10% off(wupee), but I'm waiting for some reason before ordering.
For the clutch mc, I've taking George Jets idea of using the Bronco II mc . It should fit in the space between the firewall and fender well, I hope it will fit. Making the connection between t he clutch "nub" and the master might be a little challenging) I have the mc coming, (dirt cheap), if it doesn't pan out, then go onto the next idea, and Jeff agrees to try it.
It would be so cool if it works! I think I've found the adapter go from the squirrelly "fitting" to threaded fitting.
Just to the right of the steering shaft is the hole where the mc should go, and there's about 4.5" of room~ that's it. But generally there's a strengthening plate that may have to go there to give strength, another 5/16 in an already tight place.
Darn, that time again~ the days are going by way tooooo fast
So, I've decided to go with the Mcleod throw out bearing, but am changing out the fingered clutch for a diaphram, finally found one and should be here some day. But I'd like to get the T.O. so I can re-install the transmission. Jeff will give me 10% off(wupee), but I'm waiting for some reason before ordering.
For the clutch mc, I've taking George Jets idea of using the Bronco II mc
. It should fit in the space between the firewall and fender well, I hope it will fit. Making the connection between t he clutch "nub" and the master might be a little challenging) I have the mc coming, (dirt cheap), if it doesn't pan out, then go onto the next idea, and Jeff agrees to try it.It would be so cool if it works! I think I've found the adapter go from the squirrelly "fitting" to threaded fitting.
Just to the right of the steering shaft is the hole where the mc should go, and there's about 4.5" of room~ that's it. But generally there's a strengthening plate that may have to go there to give strength, another 5/16 in an already tight place.
Darn, that time again~ the days are going by way tooooo fast
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
I got 1 question.....Why in the world would you put a Ford Bronco m/c in your Dart ?
That makes absolutely zero sense. Ugh.
You know there is Chrysler parts designed for your car that will bolt right on, right ?
I just don't get it. Rant Over !!!!
That makes absolutely zero sense. Ugh.
You know there is Chrysler parts designed for your car that will bolt right on, right ?
I just don't get it. Rant Over !!!!
When I post outside my build thread it’s generally a plea for advice. If you know of a “Chrysler “ part that will bolt right on, give me a part number;). However this tiny Ford part may save the day or not, then I just go onto the next idea. Just having fun with different ideas and problem solving
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Do you have drum brakes or disc brakes ?
Are your brakes original to the car ?
What year car are we working on 63 Dart ?
If drum, do you plan on upgrading to disc ?
Bolting Ford parts onto your Dodge is not problem solving, actually would be the opposite.
Stick with the KISS program and you will be better off.
Are your brakes original to the car ?
What year car are we working on 63 Dart ?
If drum, do you plan on upgrading to disc ?
Bolting Ford parts onto your Dodge is not problem solving, actually would be the opposite.
Stick with the KISS program and you will be better off.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
You might ought to ease back to the top and read the thread title to lower your blood pressure a little. She isn't building brakes. She wants to install a hydraulic CLUTCH master cylinder. She can't run right down to the local Dodge dealer and get a clutch master cylinder for a 63 Dart. If the part she needs to make the hydraulic clutch release work happens to have been designed for a Ford, why does it matter as long as it works?
Thank you JD
I feel I can continue with this thread, I'm actually having fun with this. Got the part yesterday and quite excited that I'm sure this will work. Yes, there will be modifications, that's the challenge. I'm not waiting for the Mcleod adapter for the little clutch mc, one step at a time.
the 63 dart has little room between the fender and firewall limiting choices of master cylinders. I'm sure Red Roberts at Modern Driveline could figure it out, but I'm doing ok.
grr, Gary's bugging me to help trim trees, then change oil on the generac~ I can't have any fun
the cardboard represents the strengtheing plate and the mc will bolt to that. I'll either have to fabricate that myself or beg Red at Modern driveline to make one for me.
I need to modify the plate a little bit adding material by a tad.
I'll eventually put this on the bench to test for adequate travel. I believe the Bronco has a little more travel, I can solve this
I feel I can continue with this thread, I'm actually having fun with this. Got the part yesterday and quite excited that I'm sure this will work. Yes, there will be modifications, that's the challenge. I'm not waiting for the Mcleod adapter for the little clutch mc, one step at a time.
the 63 dart has little room between the fender and firewall limiting choices of master cylinders. I'm sure Red Roberts at Modern Driveline could figure it out, but I'm doing ok.
grr, Gary's bugging me to help trim trees, then change oil on the generac~ I can't have any fun
the cardboard represents the strengtheing plate and the mc will bolt to that. I'll either have to fabricate that myself or beg Red at Modern driveline to make one for me.
I need to modify the plate a little bit adding material by a tad.
I'll eventually put this on the bench to test for adequate travel. I believe the Bronco has a little more travel, I can solve this
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Looking forward to your progress! You may be able to find someone local with a water jet cutter to cut the plate out for you. I don't know if it would give you any room in a place you would need it, but you can shorten that red outer steering column tube up a few inches and move the seal/ spacer up towards the firewall. Hang onto those templates....I'm more than likely gonna do a hydraulic clutch for my 65 Barracuda. Are you going to use a slave cylinder, or a hydraulic throwout bearing?
Hey JD~ the steering column "interference" is misleading~ the hydraulic line would go easily below that, but they make an 90 degree adapter to the other adapter which will put the line against the firewall. Since I have the transmission out, I'm going with the hydraulic throw out bearing. When I pass this by Red at Modern driveline, he may make the plate for me, he's always seeking to dominate the market in clutch adapters. But I don't know how he would respond to using the Bronco MC in his line up due to patent issues? I'll write him tomorrow and see what he says, but I'm still waiting for other miniscule parts. I would hope to make a decent contribution when this works out. But cudos goes to George Jets for pointing out the Bronco stuff. There could be other MC's out there that could work even better, I wouldn't know where to even begin to look~
dne' ;)
Red at Drivelines idea is to make the units adaptable without drilling and should be able to be installed with mere hand tools. (less the internal throwout bearing) I'm trying to figure this out so it can be reproduced to achieve the same idea.
dne' ;)
Red at Drivelines idea is to make the units adaptable without drilling and should be able to be installed with mere hand tools. (less the internal throwout bearing) I'm trying to figure this out so it can be reproduced to achieve the same idea.
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This is my blog on the 67-68 Mustang Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch intallation. Also shows how the slave cylinder works. I've been having problems with my Classic cars and tools. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
That's news to me, and my blood pressure is fine, thanks for asking. Maybe you should read post 82 where she stated she was "Taking the path of least resistance, and staying with a stock clutch". We have messaged each other, and that's where we left off. It really doesn't matter to me what she wants to do with her car, its her car after all. You think Ford parts are the hot ticket for her car, and I don't. So there you go. I wish her luck with her build.
"I Need to Modify" >
SHE CAN DO.....
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SHE CAN DO.....
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