OK so that is suppose to be corrected geometry?View attachment 1715499159 View attachment 1715499160 Ya I’m at 1.300. Would I have had to go that far? No but it sure let me do nice things to the curved wall. Checking with some shims and the lockring I moved the rocker over .283. Minus the .050 shim I usually have in there for adjusting app .230 needed. That’s where I started and now I will back it down to see how tight I can go before rubbing. There is still room to grind more out especially on the bottom because it’s out of the port window. I gotta see if I can get my sonic checker to repeat so I can trust it. It’s not like I couldn’t repair a hole, I just don’t want to have to. I want to check actual valve lift now to see where I’m at.
Well another thread that says i'm watching...... but was 3 pages behind and no notification
AnyHoo
Would a "offset lifter" help the situation? The ones that the cup in the lifter is pushed to the edge of the lifter. don't know if it for a flat tappet or a roller lifter but i have seen pictures somewhere of them.
Would also help on your pushrod angle as well.............
EDIT: Wouldn't work with a flat tappet lifter
View attachment 1715499300 View attachment 1715499301 View attachment 1715499302 View attachment 1715499303 View attachment 1715499304 Ok still in the shop but I’m done for the night with some progress after more grinding. I now have clearance with under .170 shims, down from .283 earlier. There is usually a shim between the rocker and stand so that accounts for some of that shim pac.
Who thinks Trick Flow will release a race version small block head in about two years with this general port arrangement and Harland Sharp rocker arms with an offset really close to this? Pittsburghracer should get royalties if that happens.
Brian Imm used to make lifters with the offset holes.Well another thread that says i'm watching...... but was 3 pages behind and no notification
AnyHoo
Would a "offset lifter" help the situation? The ones that the cup in the lifter is pushed to the edge of the lifter. don't know if it for a flat tappet or a roller lifter but i have seen pictures somewhere of them.
Would also help on your pushrod angle as well.............
EDIT: Wouldn't work with a flat tappet lifter
I don't think we will ever see any new small block mopar heads released again...I just don't see the market for them going forward... plus there are lots of W8 and 9 heads floating around we just need a decent block to work off..Who thinks Trick Flow will release a race version small block head in about two years with this general port arrangement and Harland Sharp rocker arms with an offset really close to this? Pittsburghracer should get royalties if that happens.
Other people have been doing this for years but I’m just not seeing the horsepower (ET numbers) that one would expect. Hopefully time will tell.
I don't think we will ever see any new small block mopar heads released again...I just don't see the market for them going forward... plus there are lots of W8 and 9 heads floating around we just need a decent block to work off..
Something that is bouncing around in my head is that when I do call Harlan Sharp I may ask them their thoughts on moving up to s 1.7 intake rocker. These heads are really working nice from .450 up so I might be a good idea to take advantage of that. Sometimes I have to rein myself back in telling myself hey this is a “bracket racing engine” but honestly this still wouldn’t be a big cam and I would gain back some angle loses.
The only issue with a 1.7 rocker is the rocker is already so short that when you move the adjuster towards the shaft to get there you are killing the pushrod side geometry.
I tried years ago to get a 1.7 rocker on these shafts for the extra lift but couldn’t do it. IIRC T&D will do it because of the smaller diameter shafts, but that is still a really short rocker to get that ratio.
He got the lifters from BAM who got the lifters elsewhere.Brian Imm used to make lifters with the offset holes.
I agree they released a good head and it can make the kind of power that is suitable for stock block builds...I just personal just don't see them going any further into the SBM world, most of the people building these engines don't seem interested with the extra costs/hassles of offset rockers and maybe porting an intake to match.I would take that bet as there are way more guys looking for a more racier TrickFlow Head. The costs involved in running a W8-W9 head and high rpm gets expensive real fast. I see those guys spending 1000’s of dollars just getting the right convertor in the car. Way overboard for street, street strip budget racers. TrickFlow made the smart move releasing the head they did.
I agree they released a good head and it can make the kind of power that is suitable for stock block builds...I just personal just don't see them going any further into the SBM world, most of the people building these engines don't seem interested with the extra costs/hassles of offset rockers and maybe porting an intake to match.
I would still be really curious as to how many sets of heads they have sold to date for the SBM...I personal still have yet to lay eyes on a set
Dam the luck!Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.
Dam the luck!
Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.
What a shame, I was looking forward to seeing this finished.Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.