New 408 build finally started

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Ok still in the shop but I’m done for the night with some progress after more grinding. I now have clearance with under .170 shims, down from .283 earlier. There is usually a shim between the rocker and stand so that accounts for some of that shim pac.
 
Well another thread that says i'm watching...... but was 3 pages behind and no notification:rolleyes:

AnyHoo
Would a "offset lifter" help the situation? The ones that the cup in the lifter is pushed to the edge of the lifter. don't know if it for a flat tappet or a roller lifter but i have seen pictures somewhere of them.
Would also help on your pushrod angle as well.............

EDIT: Wouldn't work with a flat tappet lifter:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::rofl:
 
View attachment 1715499159 View attachment 1715499160 Ya I’m at 1.300. Would I have had to go that far? No but it sure let me do nice things to the curved wall. Checking with some shims and the lockring I moved the rocker over .283. Minus the .050 shim I usually have in there for adjusting app .230 needed. That’s where I started and now I will back it down to see how tight I can go before rubbing. There is still room to grind more out especially on the bottom because it’s out of the port window. I gotta see if I can get my sonic checker to repeat so I can trust it. It’s not like I couldn’t repair a hole, I just don’t want to have to. I want to check actual valve lift now to see where I’m at.
OK so that is suppose to be corrected geometry?
Those pic's are amazing
Looks like a lot of work, beyond me.
Keep posting it's great.
 
Well another thread that says i'm watching...... but was 3 pages behind and no notification:rolleyes:

AnyHoo
Would a "offset lifter" help the situation? The ones that the cup in the lifter is pushed to the edge of the lifter. don't know if it for a flat tappet or a roller lifter but i have seen pictures somewhere of them.
Would also help on your pushrod angle as well.............

EDIT: Wouldn't work with a flat tappet lifter:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::rofl:


With the short deck height of a small block a little bit could be gained but have you priced roller lifters lately. Aaaaa noway is that in my budget.
 
True, expensive, but there is an off set lifter available to help straighten out the pushrod with the off set rockers.
 
on the needle bearings
it depends on the rockers
those look like they have lots of area
so just look up the shaft dia

sohuld be many od and width with the hard flat "races"- = hard shims
 
View attachment 1715499300 View attachment 1715499301 View attachment 1715499302 View attachment 1715499303 View attachment 1715499304 Ok still in the shop but I’m done for the night with some progress after more grinding. I now have clearance with under .170 shims, down from .283 earlier. There is usually a shim between the rocker and stand so that accounts for some of that shim pac.

Who thinks Trick Flow will release a race version small block head in about two years with this general port arrangement and Harland Sharp rocker arms with an offset really close to this? Pittsburghracer should get royalties if that happens.
 
Who thinks Trick Flow will release a race version small block head in about two years with this general port arrangement and Harland Sharp rocker arms with an offset really close to this? Pittsburghracer should get royalties if that happens.


Other people have been doing this for years but I’m just not seeing the horsepower (ET numbers) that one would expect. Hopefully time will tell.
 
Well another thread that says i'm watching...... but was 3 pages behind and no notification:rolleyes:

AnyHoo
Would a "offset lifter" help the situation? The ones that the cup in the lifter is pushed to the edge of the lifter. don't know if it for a flat tappet or a roller lifter but i have seen pictures somewhere of them.
Would also help on your pushrod angle as well.............

EDIT: Wouldn't work with a flat tappet lifter:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::rofl:
Brian Imm used to make lifters with the offset holes.
 
Who thinks Trick Flow will release a race version small block head in about two years with this general port arrangement and Harland Sharp rocker arms with an offset really close to this? Pittsburghracer should get royalties if that happens.
I don't think we will ever see any new small block mopar heads released again...I just don't see the market for them going forward... plus there are lots of W8 and 9 heads floating around we just need a decent block to work off..
 
Other people have been doing this for years but I’m just not seeing the horsepower (ET numbers) that one would expect. Hopefully time will tell.

True. I am just poking the fire a little. And I like how you pointed out the ET numbers, not just the horsepower.

Your last photo looks way better than I imagined it would. Much less angle than I thought it would be on. I am glad you did not give up on it.
 
I don't think we will ever see any new small block mopar heads released again...I just don't see the market for them going forward... plus there are lots of W8 and 9 heads floating around we just need a decent block to work off..


I would take that bet as there are way more guys looking for a more racier TrickFlow Head. The costs involved in running a W8-W9 head and high rpm gets expensive real fast. I see those guys spending 1000’s of dollars just getting the right convertor in the car. Way overboard for street, street strip budget racers. TrickFlow made the smart move releasing the head they did.
 
Something that is bouncing around in my head is that when I do call Harlan Sharp I may ask them their thoughts on moving up to s 1.7 intake rocker. These heads are really working nice from .450 up so I might be a good idea to take advantage of that. Sometimes I have to rein myself back in telling myself hey this is a “bracket racing engine” but honestly this still wouldn’t be a big cam and I would gain back some angle loses.
 
Something that is bouncing around in my head is that when I do call Harlan Sharp I may ask them their thoughts on moving up to s 1.7 intake rocker. These heads are really working nice from .450 up so I might be a good idea to take advantage of that. Sometimes I have to rein myself back in telling myself hey this is a “bracket racing engine” but honestly this still wouldn’t be a big cam and I would gain back some angle loses.

The only issue with a 1.7 rocker is the rocker is already so short that when you move the adjuster towards the shaft to get there you are killing the pushrod side geometry.

I tried years ago to get a 1.7 rocker on these shafts for the extra lift but couldn’t do it. IIRC T&D will do it because of the smaller diameter shafts, but that is still a really short rocker to get that ratio.
 
The only issue with a 1.7 rocker is the rocker is already so short that when you move the adjuster towards the shaft to get there you are killing the pushrod side geometry.

I tried years ago to get a 1.7 rocker on these shafts for the extra lift but couldn’t do it. IIRC T&D will do it because of the smaller diameter shafts, but that is still a really short rocker to get that ratio.

I was going o say the stock shaft is large and the P-rod needs to move in real close. I figured that was the issue and the reason no body makes it. I never measured. For the most part, between the 1.6 rocker and a high lift cam, you can pretty much get what you need unless the head is an extreme high flow high lift head.

Pittsburg is right. Once you get past trick flow or trick ported Edelbrock heads or the chink stuff, the expense jumps and the cost of faster becomes expensive. I don’t know if TF will release a head above there 190. What’s above the 190 on the performance ladder? The Victor head is new but I don’t see anyone building an engine with them on line. I also have no idea if there total expense as well as against a W9.

Brian Imm used to make lifters with the offset holes.
He got the lifters from BAM who got the lifters elsewhere.
 
I would take that bet as there are way more guys looking for a more racier TrickFlow Head. The costs involved in running a W8-W9 head and high rpm gets expensive real fast. I see those guys spending 1000’s of dollars just getting the right convertor in the car. Way overboard for street, street strip budget racers. TrickFlow made the smart move releasing the head they did.
I agree they released a good head and it can make the kind of power that is suitable for stock block builds...I just personal just don't see them going any further into the SBM world, most of the people building these engines don't seem interested with the extra costs/hassles of offset rockers and maybe porting an intake to match.
I would still be really curious as to how many sets of heads they have sold to date for the SBM...I personal still have yet to lay eyes on a set
 
I agree they released a good head and it can make the kind of power that is suitable for stock block builds...I just personal just don't see them going any further into the SBM world, most of the people building these engines don't seem interested with the extra costs/hassles of offset rockers and maybe porting an intake to match.
I would still be really curious as to how many sets of heads they have sold to date for the SBM...I personal still have yet to lay eyes on a set
 
Well, I don’t know what happened above, so I’ll try again.

I’d love to see TF just COPY the W5 head and do nothing but fix the casting issues. Release a CNC version for guys that want it, but also have an unported casting for those of us who want that.

Then there would be no reason for the Stroker guys to buy anything else. It would cover 90% at least PF the builds happening.

And they need to raise the valuable spring pocket up .200 so you can raise the port without welding.

Do that and TF would have 99% of the market covered.
 
I’ll second that right there. A good W5 that can be fully race ported can flow some really nice numbers and make a good bit of power. The crap casting is what held that head back and down.

Id love it if TF did what YR said. Just the way he said!
 
The lobe lift of the cam is .415??

If so, and you got .640 gross lift at zero lash, the net overall RR is 1.54...... which sounds pretty good for a 59* combo with offset 1.6 rockers.
 
Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.
 
Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.
Dam the luck!
 
Dam the luck!


Ohhh well I have everything needed to use the other heads except the Cometic Head gaskets so that’s one good thing. Sure wish my income tax money would show up. I did direct deposit and it’s been 6.5 weeks now. Hopefully I’m not getting audited.
 
Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.

That's a shitty turn. But sometimes it's good to walk away and come back when you're not so frustrated with the whole thing. Press the tube out maybe, a quick heat with a mapp gas torch or some propane around the plug and push it out quickly.
 
Ohhh well guys I screwed myself in about 100 different ways today. I took out some shims and was down to .130 and had a small rub so I blued the pushrod hoping I could see where it was rubbing. It worked and and I checked it with my sonic checker and hoping it was just a high spot addressed it. When I flipped the head over to sonic check it again I could see a soft spot so I grabbed my pick and bingo, I got a hole. Time for me to throw these on a shelf, grab my other set, do a valve job and check the springs, and finish this damn engine up. It’s going to be fun getting that aborted aluminum tube out of that hole and a new one epoxied in. Not looking forward to that job. Sounds like a winter project.
What a shame, I was looking forward to seeing this finished.
There sure is a lot of work relocating the pushrods. I don't think the money/time spent was worth the gain for me but we didn't go overboard with porting as mine is a streeter that will occasionally see the track.
Really enjoy your threads. Best of luck.
 
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