grimreaper
Cross Member
Pretty sure it's $4, 495
Passon 5-speed
- Thread starter WEBBY
- Start date
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jbc426
Well-Known Member
UPDATE:
I got the McLeod Street Twin back. It's all rebuilt and looks brand new. they changed virtually all the hard parts, and Blanchard ground the flywheel and center plate. They are a great company to deal with, and even saved me some money on shipping by letting me buy a UPS label from them to get it down there. The cost is about double for me as a private, non-business entity to ship it.
Backtracking the oil downward and back, I found that the 3 small bolts that hold down the back of the Valley Pan on the China Rail were all over a turn and a half plus loose. I cinched them down tightly and hope that solved my mystery oil leak. The oil was mixing with the clutch dust and making it more viscous and black, which made it harder for me to tell it was motor oil.
I also ran a bead of black Permatex Ultra Seal along the back of the block and along the face of the block-saver, so any oil would go around the scattershield instead of down onto the clutch.....just in case. The scattershield does make the install a bit harder, but if you are running a stick shift of any kind on other than a bone stock motor, you should invest in one. I've seen pictures of cars where the flywheel let go at high rpm. It was like a bomb went off right next to your feet and lower legs.
I snapped the Z-bar ball stud that bolts to the chassis on Friday night, and was on the phone with Summit by 5:15pm trying to get the z-bar rebuild kit. They said even though they had one in Reno(about four and a half hours from me) They could not get me on Fed Ex'd next day air. Fed Ex is one of the few that deliver on Saturday. They said the earliest I could get it would be Monday or Tuesday. Hmmm?
I called Jegs in Columbus, Ohio just before 6 pm. They had the kit, I paid the extra $42 and it was at my door before 11 am Saturday morning. Amazing job, Jeg's!
Anyway, I finished installing the clutch, the scattershield, part of the Z-bar and my reverse lock-out rod bar by 1:30am.
With all the parts I needed I finished putting in the Passon 5 speed, I stuffed it up into it's new home. It's a bit lighter than the A-833, but working alone, I still had to use a floor jack and balance it carefully. It went right in. I bolted it up, put on the speedometer drive with new seals and hooked up and replaced the new-longer speedometer cable that comes with the kit.
I need to pick-up some heat insulating sleeve and cover the Speedometer cable for about a foot and a half where it comes out of the transmission, as it is at too sharp of a bend right there. Moving in to straighten it out will bring it very close to my right exhaust collector, so it will need some heat protection. Other than that, the cable is routed up over the transmission near the scattershield and then resumes it's normal path to the speedo.
I installed the cross-member and rear trans mount bolts and removed the jack. I then carefully installed the shifter and shift rods making sure that everything stayed lined up using a home-made too to keep the levers aligned. Jamie had it all set-up before hand, and I just verified the alignment and bolted it on. As most of you know, Mopars like their shift rods and clutch Z-bar linkages angled and adjusted perfectly. I used Synthetic Disc Brake Grease on all my clutch linkage connections, because there is really nothing out there that is better.
The only thing I noticed was that the little extension for the Reverse Lock-out Rod was not on the reverse linkage. It's apain, but it does keep people from being able to shift your car out of reverse when the steering is locked. I didn't want to use my original part, so I ordered another one from Brewsters, the only place I could find one. I hope the threaded rod portion is the same as on the Passon unit. Since the rod was just just hanging down without it, I pulled the pin on the opposite side of the rod, and removed the it until the replacement part shows up.
I finished up the day by putting in the driveshaft, bolted up, and installed my exhaust cross over with electric cutouts using fresh Remflex collector gaskets. Those things are awesome!
I have a full TTI 3" exhaust with crossover and stainless 1970 through the rear valance tips. Since putting Hooker Aero Chambers on my '68, I fell in love with how they sound, so I'm switching from the TTI supplied Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers to the little bit shorter Hooker Aero Chambers. I had to buy a short 3" by 12" extension I'll have to cut down to a few inches to get the exhaust to fit right.
I'm hoping this will stop my car from pulling the driver's side tip back into the valence every few weeks. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the motor leaning over to the passenger side when I hit the go peddle for some reason...:thumleft:
Ok, I'm out to hook up the exhaust, touch up the new mufflers and extension black VHT High Heat paint I used on my full exhaust system, and hopefully take her out for a test drive this afternoon.
I have to break the clutch and gears in for 500 miles and the trans for a touch over 720 miles. I figure I'll change all the fluids at 500 miles and again at 720 miles, just to be over cautious.
I got the McLeod Street Twin back. It's all rebuilt and looks brand new. they changed virtually all the hard parts, and Blanchard ground the flywheel and center plate. They are a great company to deal with, and even saved me some money on shipping by letting me buy a UPS label from them to get it down there. The cost is about double for me as a private, non-business entity to ship it.
Backtracking the oil downward and back, I found that the 3 small bolts that hold down the back of the Valley Pan on the China Rail were all over a turn and a half plus loose. I cinched them down tightly and hope that solved my mystery oil leak. The oil was mixing with the clutch dust and making it more viscous and black, which made it harder for me to tell it was motor oil.
I also ran a bead of black Permatex Ultra Seal along the back of the block and along the face of the block-saver, so any oil would go around the scattershield instead of down onto the clutch.....just in case. The scattershield does make the install a bit harder, but if you are running a stick shift of any kind on other than a bone stock motor, you should invest in one. I've seen pictures of cars where the flywheel let go at high rpm. It was like a bomb went off right next to your feet and lower legs.
I snapped the Z-bar ball stud that bolts to the chassis on Friday night, and was on the phone with Summit by 5:15pm trying to get the z-bar rebuild kit. They said even though they had one in Reno(about four and a half hours from me) They could not get me on Fed Ex'd next day air. Fed Ex is one of the few that deliver on Saturday. They said the earliest I could get it would be Monday or Tuesday. Hmmm?
I called Jegs in Columbus, Ohio just before 6 pm. They had the kit, I paid the extra $42 and it was at my door before 11 am Saturday morning. Amazing job, Jeg's!
Anyway, I finished installing the clutch, the scattershield, part of the Z-bar and my reverse lock-out rod bar by 1:30am.
With all the parts I needed I finished putting in the Passon 5 speed, I stuffed it up into it's new home. It's a bit lighter than the A-833, but working alone, I still had to use a floor jack and balance it carefully. It went right in. I bolted it up, put on the speedometer drive with new seals and hooked up and replaced the new-longer speedometer cable that comes with the kit.
I need to pick-up some heat insulating sleeve and cover the Speedometer cable for about a foot and a half where it comes out of the transmission, as it is at too sharp of a bend right there. Moving in to straighten it out will bring it very close to my right exhaust collector, so it will need some heat protection. Other than that, the cable is routed up over the transmission near the scattershield and then resumes it's normal path to the speedo.
I installed the cross-member and rear trans mount bolts and removed the jack. I then carefully installed the shifter and shift rods making sure that everything stayed lined up using a home-made too to keep the levers aligned. Jamie had it all set-up before hand, and I just verified the alignment and bolted it on. As most of you know, Mopars like their shift rods and clutch Z-bar linkages angled and adjusted perfectly. I used Synthetic Disc Brake Grease on all my clutch linkage connections, because there is really nothing out there that is better.
The only thing I noticed was that the little extension for the Reverse Lock-out Rod was not on the reverse linkage. It's apain, but it does keep people from being able to shift your car out of reverse when the steering is locked. I didn't want to use my original part, so I ordered another one from Brewsters, the only place I could find one. I hope the threaded rod portion is the same as on the Passon unit. Since the rod was just just hanging down without it, I pulled the pin on the opposite side of the rod, and removed the it until the replacement part shows up.
I finished up the day by putting in the driveshaft, bolted up, and installed my exhaust cross over with electric cutouts using fresh Remflex collector gaskets. Those things are awesome!
I have a full TTI 3" exhaust with crossover and stainless 1970 through the rear valance tips. Since putting Hooker Aero Chambers on my '68, I fell in love with how they sound, so I'm switching from the TTI supplied Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers to the little bit shorter Hooker Aero Chambers. I had to buy a short 3" by 12" extension I'll have to cut down to a few inches to get the exhaust to fit right.
I'm hoping this will stop my car from pulling the driver's side tip back into the valence every few weeks. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the motor leaning over to the passenger side when I hit the go peddle for some reason...:thumleft:
Ok, I'm out to hook up the exhaust, touch up the new mufflers and extension black VHT High Heat paint I used on my full exhaust system, and hopefully take her out for a test drive this afternoon.
I have to break the clutch and gears in for 500 miles and the trans for a touch over 720 miles. I figure I'll change all the fluids at 500 miles and again at 720 miles, just to be over cautious.
chasduster
Well-Known Member
Thank you
grimreaper
Cross Member
Love those photos. Can't wait for the report in action. Thanks!
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I'm struggling with my exhaust system. I never had it fitted exactly right. I also just switched to Hooker Aero Chambers and they are a little shorter. No big deal, just time consuming to assemble make little cuts here and there, so it fits just right and my exhaust tips stick out level, even add just the right distance from the rear valance.
What makes it even harder is that it is bolt together not welded, so it can be taken apart to get to the transmission without cutting and re-welding etc. Some of the joints have been together for a few years and are stubborn to take apart.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
UPDATE: I have 2 " headpipe TTI's with 3 1/2 " collectors going to a full 3" x-pipe exhaust all the way out the back with the '70 through the valance tips.
I discovered that the reverse rod was sitting on top of the driver's side exhaust pretty hard in fact. I'd say it needed an additional inch of clearance to not touch it, or I could move it inward to the centerline of the car an inch and clear the exhaust pipe. The 3 inch pipes are BIG, and having an "X" pipe didn't help matters as it starts heading towards the center of the car. Stock or other smaller types of exhaust and engine /header combo's likely won't not have this problem. It's those darn aftermarket parts!
I called Jamie and explained the situation, and asked him if it would be ok to heat the rod to bend it towards the center of the car enough to hang freely. He said go for it, so I did. I studied the part, chose my location for the bend and heated it up nice and red along about a 3/4" to 1" section a few inches down from where it connects on the shift mechanism, off the car of course. I carefully and slowly made my adjustment, let it cool down slowly and now it fits perfectly.
Remember, on this transmission the reverse gear lever is also the 5th gear lever, so it has to be right, and proper adjustment of all the rods on all Mopars is critical for smooth shifts and long component life.
I also have the 1970 reverse lock-out in my car and ordered an additional adjuster for the reverse rod from Brewer's, so I can hook it back up. The Passon unit does not have that feature as an integral part of the lever adjusting "pin", but it is easily added if you want it.
Most guys unhook it, because it likes to be adjusted just right too. I will have the part today and post some more pics of the above mentioned items. I wanted to keep the stock rods and adjusters with my transmission, as it matches the numbers on the block and can now safely rest in my basement with the original numbers block while I enjoy the car. I like power, and never felt the stock sixpack motors had enough for my tastes, besides, I didn't want to take a chance on hurting the numbers block.
These A-833's are a tough transmission! It held up to over 700 ft lbs of torque for several years with 325 50 15R Drag Radials and a McLeod Street Twin. That sure says something for Mother Mopar!
Aside from those two issues, the trans bolted in just as easy as a stocker. The speedo cable runs out the passenger-side, up over the top of the transmission near the scattershield and then follows the regular path. The reverse lockout light is in a perfect place. The fit and finish is impeccable! This is a first class unit!
As soon as I finish up some other chores, (I'm pulling a 3.23 Sure Grip out of my '48 and shipping it to Colorado, and installing a Dr Diff built 489 case 3.91's with TrueTra in preparation for a drive-line upgrade in that car)I will have my exhaust bolted up, rear valance installed and start breaking in the rear end gears, the rebuilt Street Twin and the Passon 5 speed. This is going to be good!
Treblig
Well-Known Member
jbc426
Well-Known Member
LOL, I'll get some tomorrow morning. Exhaustion was setting in. Plus, I actually had to concentrate to bend the rod just right, and didn't want to get distracted.
It's taken me longer to get my exhaust more perfectly lined up than to put in the clutch, scattershield, linkage and transmission in. It was lose, but it was never just quite right. Besides, I also changed from Dynomax Super Turbos to Hooker Aero Chambers, which are a bit shorter an needed and extension welded on them. Being a touch smaller, they do fit under the car better.
Shifting gears to my '68, Sold my 3.23's and got them shipped out to a good guy in Idaho yesterday. I installed the Dr. Diff build 489 case 3.91's with TrueTrac and found a conversion u-joint , so I can run the car with the 1310 u-joint mated to the 1350 u-joint until my drive train is ready for install. I've got about 30 miles on the 3.91's(two short trips with about an 8.5 hour cool down in between) Today, the same thing for break-in mileage. It's like I'm driving around in second gear on the freeway though. I can't wait for a 2.76 to 1 first and a .67 to 1 overdrive with a lock-up clutch and about twice the power with the stroked, bored ,ported Eddie headed and injected 408" Magnum. The car is going to be scary fast!
OK,OK, out to take some pictures and install the exhaust rod before work.
It's taken me longer to get my exhaust more perfectly lined up than to put in the clutch, scattershield, linkage and transmission in. It was lose, but it was never just quite right. Besides, I also changed from Dynomax Super Turbos to Hooker Aero Chambers, which are a bit shorter an needed and extension welded on them. Being a touch smaller, they do fit under the car better.
Shifting gears to my '68, Sold my 3.23's and got them shipped out to a good guy in Idaho yesterday. I installed the Dr. Diff build 489 case 3.91's with TrueTrac and found a conversion u-joint , so I can run the car with the 1310 u-joint mated to the 1350 u-joint until my drive train is ready for install. I've got about 30 miles on the 3.91's(two short trips with about an 8.5 hour cool down in between) Today, the same thing for break-in mileage. It's like I'm driving around in second gear on the freeway though. I can't wait for a 2.76 to 1 first and a .67 to 1 overdrive with a lock-up clutch and about twice the power with the stroked, bored ,ported Eddie headed and injected 408" Magnum. The car is going to be scary fast!
OK,OK, out to take some pictures and install the exhaust rod before work.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I got the reverse rod adjusted to clear my 3" TTI x-pipe. I used the oxy/acetylene to make sure it was pliable enough and bright red. I few minor tweaks and careful test fittings with the rod still hot gave me the clearance I needed.
After I put on the double sided swivel for the reverse lock-out rod, I realized I couldn't use it with the 5 speed, as the reverse lever is also the 5th gear lever. I removed the lock-out rod and called it good. It was annoying anyway, but I retained all the stock parts for some future museum display that never gets driven and enjoyed the way these cars were meant to be enjoyed.
Well, maybe even a little bit more with 700+ hp, 3.73's and a 5 speed!
I spent the better part of the night running a 2 gauge dedicated ground from my starter to the battery in the trunk. I still have to route it up into the trunk. There's not much room around the scattershield when the z-bar is in there and hooked up.
I also have a CS 144 that's rewound. It has a voltage sensing wire that I currently have hooked up to my electrical distribution block in the front of the car. I'm going to route that directly to the battery in the trunk to help stabilize the fuel pump voltage. It sucks a lot of amps.
Next winter, I'm going to redo my fuel system using high volume OEM quality in-tank EFI pumps, a surge tank with an internal EFI pump and two pressure regulators. It will be nearly silent and flow enough fuel for 1350 normally aspirated horsepower. It will also have the 4 pick-up fuel screens that they use in road racing. The ones that automatically and instantly shut when the fuel sloshes away from it, sucking fuel only from the pick-ups that are covered with fuel. It's a pretty cool set-up allowing you to run your tank nearly empty and still have maximum fuel flow.
After I put on the double sided swivel for the reverse lock-out rod, I realized I couldn't use it with the 5 speed, as the reverse lever is also the 5th gear lever. I removed the lock-out rod and called it good. It was annoying anyway, but I retained all the stock parts for some future museum display that never gets driven and enjoyed the way these cars were meant to be enjoyed.
Well, maybe even a little bit more with 700+ hp, 3.73's and a 5 speed!
I spent the better part of the night running a 2 gauge dedicated ground from my starter to the battery in the trunk. I still have to route it up into the trunk. There's not much room around the scattershield when the z-bar is in there and hooked up.
I also have a CS 144 that's rewound. It has a voltage sensing wire that I currently have hooked up to my electrical distribution block in the front of the car. I'm going to route that directly to the battery in the trunk to help stabilize the fuel pump voltage. It sucks a lot of amps.
Next winter, I'm going to redo my fuel system using high volume OEM quality in-tank EFI pumps, a surge tank with an internal EFI pump and two pressure regulators. It will be nearly silent and flow enough fuel for 1350 normally aspirated horsepower. It will also have the 4 pick-up fuel screens that they use in road racing. The ones that automatically and instantly shut when the fuel sloshes away from it, sucking fuel only from the pick-ups that are covered with fuel. It's a pretty cool set-up allowing you to run your tank nearly empty and still have maximum fuel flow.
grimreaper
Cross Member
Would someone stop by and visit with Jamie at his booth in Carlisle to get us an update on progress? Like, how many units have shipped and what list number he's on.....Thanks!
grimreaper
Cross Member
I talked with a guy last night who claims to be number "twenty something" on Jamie's list. He has talked to Jamie and is told that Jamie is building trannies for customers who are in the low thirties on the list. His particular transmission is not built as Jamie is building as he has components available and not everything was on hand to build his yet, but will be soon. Jamie has been extremely busy with regular four speed business and shows but expects to get more active in the five speeds soon.
I'm still waiting patiently to shift to fifth.....
I'm still waiting patiently to shift to fifth.....
Geo4K
Just your average Gearhead.
Traded a few emails and answered Jamie's questions and am "now on The List."
:cool:
:cool:
illcuda65
Well-Known Member
What is your # on the list?/ETA?
Geo4K
Just your average Gearhead.
Sorry - I just asked what my "line number" was today; I am # 376.
I went on the list 8/28/14.
I'm a patient guy. :happy1:
I went on the list 8/28/14.
I'm a patient guy. :happy1:
hemitheus
19? Plymouth Scampenstein
#376? holy crap he is selling a lot of these.
I ordered mine December 2014.Talked to Jamie a couple weeks ago and was told I am 276 on the list and can expect mid 2015 to get to mine. I guess I will just have to be patient.Been considering other options but I dont want to cut up my car to put a transmision in it. Should be worth the wait though!!
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
How much work would a T56 swap be?
hemisedan
Well-Known Member
Contact Todrod on that. There's considerable work to be done, that's why so many are interested in the Passon even though its a 5-speed. The Tremec six speed is bigger, wider and takes up more space, period, but when finished, it's a very nice transmission.
hemisedan
Well-Known Member
What's the deal? I see that NOBODY has commented on the Passon A-855 lately. The posts seem to have ended in late November, hasn't there been any more A-855's sent out? Just curious.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Maybe nobody with an A-Body has gotten one, but plenty of E-Body and B-Body people are getting them? Heck, the only one that I've seen installed is in a E-Body.
I have been curious, too, but haven't checked any other forums to see if there is activity. Not like I am likely to get one, I'm more just hoping that lots of them end up on the street so I can buy a used one in 5 or 10 years. ;-)
I have been curious, too, but haven't checked any other forums to see if there is activity. Not like I am likely to get one, I'm more just hoping that lots of them end up on the street so I can buy a used one in 5 or 10 years. ;-)
LIME TWIST DART
Well-Known Member
I just looked through a few threads and saw that orders were at least close to 400. I'm sure higher by now. I couldn't help but think some used or uninstalled units will hit the secondary market before most of those orders are filled. Interested to see if they bring more or less $ due to the demand.
grimreaper
Cross Member
I talked to Jamie before Christmas and he told me the situation was a bad news/good news ordeal. Because of demand he has realized he can't produce at the rate of demand and will have to modify his production system. The bad news is that during the production modification output of units will be very slow, but the good news is that once he has the new production underway he will be able to get units out a lot faster and much higher volume. I'm in the low 180s on the list and he says I'm realistically looking at around September for delivery.
hemisedan
Well-Known Member
Wow, still that long of wait. I think that my number is in the 270's somewhere. Hey, maybe I'll be able to pay for one when my number comes up. Otherwise, TKO 600.
You know it sure is funny with these companies. Take Keisler for instance. I know they are out of business now, but look at The Green Brick. It had one in it what.......10 years ago? Longer? That sure is funny ain't it? Who all has a Passon transmission? Who got the first few? "Special folk" like Rick Ehrenberg, I bet. My money says Passon will fold under the pressure. I hope not, but I bet he does.
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