Rally dash redo

[Mattax]

See if this helps.
Damaged but original 67 Headlight connector.

Here's one of my cheat sheets

So it looks to me like
B1 gets power from main splice. 16 awg Black with white tracer. (L1 on the 68 diagram)
P is not used
B2 gets power from a fuse thats always hot. 18 awg Pink (L8 on 68). Same terminal is used as junction for power to dome light(s) (Junction relocated in 68)
D is Dome light return (ground side). Terminal with two Yellow 18 ga wires is junction in the wire between the door jamb switches. Close any switch to ground and the circuit is complete. (M2 & M2A in '68, prob the same function)
Instr is power out to the instrument illumination fuse. 18 awg Tan (E1 in 68)
R is power to parking lights. 16 awg Yellow with black? tracer to front, 18 ga black? to rear. (L7 & L17 in 68, Color changed)
H is power to Headlight Hi/low switch. Green (L2 in '68)

So the dome light wiring junctions are different in '68, the front parking light wire color changes, and the body wiring connector changes from 6 to 8 cavities. Bulkhead connector as you prob know is rearrenged in '68.

 

[4spdragtop]

I didnt read thru all that Matt but I will. Gotta order some pink wire. Not avail here in town.
One thing I noticed that I gotta recheck in schematic is "dome light" not sure if they mean dome light for a notch back or pillar lights for fastback.
Thanks for pic and schematic.

See if this helps.
Damaged but original 67 Headlight connector.
View attachment 1715477399

Here's one of my cheat sheets
View attachment 1715477404

So it looks to me like
B1 gets power from main splice. 16 awg Black with white tracer. (L1 on the 68 diagram)
P is not used
B2 gets power from a fuse thats always hot. 18 awg Pink (L8 on 68). Same terminal is used as junction for power to dome light(s) (Junction relocated in 68)
D is Dome light return (ground side). Terminal with two Yellow 18 ga wires is junction in the wire between the door jamb switches. Close any switch to ground and the circuit is complete. (M2 & M2A in '68, prob the same function)
Instr is power out to the instrument illumination fuse. 18 awg Tan (E1 in 68)
R is power to parking lights. 16 awg Yellow with black? tracer to front, 18 ga black? to rear. (L7 & L17 in 68, Color changed)
H is power to Headlight Hi/low switch. Green (L2 in '68)

So the dome light wiring junctions are different in '68, the front parking light wire color changes, and the body wiring connector changes from 6 to 8 cavities. Bulkhead connector as you prob know is rearrenged in '68.

 

[Mattax]

I'm hoping you can use most of your 67 harness. I did see the photo of the fusebox. That didn't look so good - hopefully it can be cleaned up. I don't know what it takes to crimp the feeds - I'm hoping you won't have to.

Dome relation to pillar I haven't looked at. My notch is plain jane as far as interior lighting goes.

 

[Mattax]

Questions time.
What holds these 'bullet' terminals in the multi-connector?
I don't see a barb.

I happen to have a handful of molex connectors. The terminals fit on the circuit board pins, but are clearly not the same. They might be the same as used in the steering column connector. I haven't checked that yet...

 

[Mattax]

Did you find a ground wire running from the capacitor to the radio support strut?
This looks like it could be original.
Its not mentioned in the the 'how to remove the instrument panel' but the panel isn't coming out until one end or the other is removed.

 

[RedFish]

Nothing holding these round terminals in panel connector. Wire goes through the slot and pulled. Terminal bottoms, its diameter captures. If people could or would sort and straighten/align the wire, the black connector could be backed away leaving terminals on the posts. If several wires should come out through the slots, you have to know which/where they go back again.

 

[4spdragtop]

So I THINK I discovered a difference. Between nb&fb. In Matt's headlight connector pic, you can see the yellow wire with tracer in R cavity. This identifies it as 67 only. 68 up didnt use the yellow with black tracer. See in Matt's pic there are 2 pink wires doubled up in B2 cavity? That(I believe) shows that it is for a notchback, as they had the dome lamp. Fast backs did not. They had a "rear pillar" lamp on each side. I found a headlight connector in my tickle trunk that was from 67(yellow/tracer wire) see pic. It does not have doubled up pink wires from B2. Only a single pink.....

See if this helps.
Damaged but original 67 Headlight connector.
View attachment 1715477399

Here's one of my cheat sheets
View attachment 1715477404

So it looks to me like
B1 gets power from main splice. 16 awg Black with white tracer. (L1 on the 68 diagram)
P is not used
B2 gets power from a fuse thats always hot. 18 awg Pink (L8 on 68). Same terminal is used as junction for power to dome light(s) (Junction relocated in 68)
D is Dome light return (ground side). Terminal with two Yellow 18 ga wires is junction in the wire between the door jamb switches. Close any switch to ground and the circuit is complete. (M2 & M2A in '68, prob the same function)
Instr is power out to the instrument illumination fuse. 18 awg Tan (E1 in 68)
R is power to parking lights. 16 awg Yellow with black? tracer to front, 18 ga black? to rear. (L7 & L17 in 68, Color changed)
H is power to Headlight Hi/low switch. Green (L2 in '68)

So the dome light wiring junctions are different in '68, the front parking light wire color changes, and the body wiring connector changes from 6 to 8 cavities. Bulkhead connector as you prob know is rearrenged in '68.

 

[RedFish]

Steve, It really does matter where the interior/courtesy lamps are one in the roof, 2 in the rear pillars, or 2 in the foot wells of vert. They all are connected to the same courtesy lamp circuit. On and off with door jamb switches and headlamp switch rotation.

 

[Mattax]

See in Matt's pic there are 2 pink wires doubled up in B2 cavity? That(I believe) shows that it is for a notchback, as they had the dome lamp. Fast backs did not. They had a "rear pillar" lamp on each side. I found a headlight connector in my tickle trunk that was from 67(yellow/tracer wire) see pic. It does not have doubled up pink wires from B2. Only a single pink....

Interesting and good info. Should have enough to figure out the puzzle soon. Considering the supplement was clearly late relative to the regular FSM, it could have been rushed and missed a detail like that.
The body diagram shows several option (vert, hardtop, fastback, trunk light, rear defrost, and vert top)
Need to see how these pillar light wires connect up to the front.

 

[4spdragtop]

Does or does not?

Steve, It really does matter where the interior/courtesy lamps are one in the roof, 2 in the rear pillars, or 2 in the foot wells of vert. They all are connected to the same courtesy lamp circuit. On and off with door jamb switches and headlamp switch rotation.

 

[RedFish]

Does or does not?

OOPS... does not. Sorry I dont have proper and viewable diagrams to help with the pink wires. I think maybe the 67 diagram I have that shows a wire on 'P' is the same diagram you have, correct or not.

 

[4spdragtop]

Ben send me an email to [email protected] and I will send you the factory pdf scans that Mattax sent me. Clear as a bell. Way better than the ones on mymopar.com

OOPS... does not. Sorry I dont have proper and viewable diagrams to help with the pink wires. I think maybe the 67 diagram I have that shows a wire on 'P' is the same diagram you have, correct or not.

 

[4spdragtop]

Well another change.... radio wires...
68
White wire doubled up with red/tracer and orange (all 3 wires 18 gauge)
White > "D" cavity in b/h
Red/tracer > to "RADIO" hole in fuseblock.
Orange > #5 cavity turn signal connector.
67
Red/tracer 18 gauge > fuseblock
2 orange wires(18 gauge) doubled up, 1 wire> #5 cavity t/s connector.
2nd orange wire >round plug at circuit board(uh oh) for inst lamps.
Gotta think about this one.
Got nice fuseblock, b/h connector and dimmer switch plug from barracudakid so I think I've gathered all I need to finish up the harness. Keep coming across wiring changes

 

[4spdragtop]

By the looks of schematic, the rear pillar lights are "fed" from #2 cavity (18-BK), at bottom of schematic where it says "To Body wiring"
You can see in the schematic you posted, at the bottom they forgot to label the 6 pin connector.

Interesting and good info. Should have enough to figure out the puzzle soon. Considering the supplement was clearly late relative to the regular FSM, it could have been rushed and missed a detail like that.
The body diagram shows several option (vert, hardtop, fastback, trunk light, rear defrost, and vert top)
Need to see how these pillar light wires connect up to the front.
View attachment 1715477885

 

[Mattax]

By the looks of schematic, the rear pillar lights are "fed" from #2 cavity (18-BK), at bottom of schematic where it says "To Body wiring"

Might have to look at your original harness and see where the pink wire from that connector may lead to. Somehow it has to connect up with a wire from that fuse. Maybe the junction is at the T shaped connector instead of at the headlight B2 terminal.

 

[Mattax]

Meant to say that you can check with the ohm meter or continuity light to be sure the ends connect.

 

[1969383S]

Did you ever find those bullet style female connectors for the barrel on the dash?

 

[1969383S]

I have knowledge of something real close but with locks.

 

[4spdragtop]

No, Matt mentioned them earlier being similar to moles?
Depending how ambitious I get and still sane, I would like to make an "extension plug" so to speak. One end would plug into the round black plastic plug and the other end to the circuit board.This will allow me down the road to pull the inst bezel and have a little more "work space" back there. Either Ben or Del had mentioned it previously.
Thanks

Did you ever find those bullet style female connectors for the barrel on the dash?

 

[1969383S]

Sounds like what I did when I upgraded the gauges. I made a short extension as not to cut into my new M&H harness to bypass the gauge + feed. I pulled that dark blue out of the barrel and used a male plug and heat shrink to bypass it to the new electronic gauge regulator. I have the male and female type pins and they were Molex. You can find the from places like Newark supply.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, my phone wont open this for some reason?? I'll chk it tomorrow.
I know I will have a few repeats on this harness but once the harness gets closer to finished I can put it in dash and see what other mods I'll do. (Mad bypass, speaker upgrade) Not sure what else but I'm sure there's more lol.
**sidenote** got to find something to "coat" the metal hooks in the dash that hold the harness. Sandblaster removed all the coating. I could just use electrical tape but would like for something a little "nicer"
Ideas? See pic of "hook"

Sounds like what I did when I upgraded the gauges. I made a short extension as not to cut into my new M&H harness to bypass the gauge + feed. I pulled that dark blue out of the barrel and used a male plug and heat shrink to bypass it to the new electronic gauge regulator. I have the male and female type pins and they were Molex. You can find the from places like Newark supply.

 

[1969383S]

Plastic dip! Used it a lot. Had to make the wire tabs for the left rear new quarter drops to hold the rear harness. Also some new engine side pieces. I used metal banding in 2 sizes as used for shipping and softened it with Torch heat first to make it bendable without breaking and drilled a hole in the center for tack weld to the body then dipped a few times!

 

[1969383S]

You will have to pour some in a smaller container to coat those!

 

[4spdragtop]

I mentioned Plasti Dip to powdercoater, he said it left a pretty thin coating?

Plastic dip! Used it a lot. Had to make the wire tabs for the left rear new quarter drops to hold the rear harness. Also some new engine side pieces. I used metal banding in 2 sizes as used for shipping and softened it with Torch heat first to make it bendable without breaking and drilled a hole in the center for tack weld to the body then dipped a few times!

View attachment 1715478260

View attachment 1715478261

 

[1969383S]

Multiple times and it will build up nice. I made the quarter drop pieces and sent to Le Hodge who did my body. He liked them, and no one sells them. Easy to make!