Shift Kit

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7dswinger said:
well then there goes all that work lol. At least I know what it all looks like and it's not that bad. So then it's off to pull the other VB, was hoping to be able to drive it and swap it but oh well haha. Is it just the top part that's different or is the whole thing different?
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I haven't actually compared them but my guess is there's differences throughout. I have exploded pics of the non-lockup valve body and the trans-go instructions downloaded so if you run into trouble I can post them.
 
the exploded pics would be great, I've got the trans-go instructions that came in the box. I'm going to take the Dart to my shop tomorrow and drain it, take the VB out and come home and work on it, hopefully they'll be chill with me leaving it in the parking lot for a few days, should be.
Alright noob :newb: question time: What's the best way to drain it, I'm installing a drain plug in the pan so it'll be easier later. I've got the correct location in the rear of the pan for it so I was thinking about punching the hole carefully in the pan and letting it drain that way.
 
7dswinger said:
.... What's the best way to drain it, I'm installing a drain plug in the pan so it'll be easier later. I've got the correct location in the rear of the pan for it so I was thinking about punching the hole carefully in the pan and letting it drain that way.
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You'll spill less tranny fluid that way. I would punch the hole at the center of your planned drain plug hole. There'll still be some fluid in the pan, but not brimfull!

ATB

BC
 
Ya you can drill a hole to let it drain. Just make sure your drilling it in the right spot, not somewhere where it'll be in the way of something. Here's some pics I scanned from my manual. I think this should cover all the sections of your valve body. The one page also has a picture of a Non-lockup unit so ignore it
 

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  • Torqueflite Non-LU VB 1.pdf
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  • Torqueflite Non-LU VB 2.pdf
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alright so I just pulled the pan and there's some metal flakes in the bottom, how worried should I be about this? I know it's not ideal but the trans is operating fine so idk
 
7dswinger said:
alright so I just pulled the pan and there's some metal flakes in the bottom, how worried should I be about this? I know it's not ideal but the trans is operating fine so idk
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A picture would be great because a little bit of flakes of a certain size is normal.
So is the blackish looking goo that looks like powdered pencil lead.
 
well it's too late for a picture I think, I cleaned everything out uhh I can pull the pan off again and see what I can take a picture of. There were some bigger ones, like good sized one's and the amount of smaller ones covered a fair amount of the pan.
Let me put it this way on the bigger ones, are like 1/16 of an inch long
 
Ok in the TF-2 instructions on page 3, I've got a 72 VB with the four slots, do I still use the drill plate or not and drill?
 
Little thin strips about an eighth is ok if there isn't too many of them.
Also "covering the pan" may just be because it hasn't been cleaned out in a long time.
It's really hard to tell by someone else's view, but if it works ok I would have to call it a works but needs attention transmission. (since you said "larger pieces")

How thick in the bottom was this stuff?
and how big were the larger pieces?
AND were they flat flake type pieces or chunks?
Were the bigger pieces metal or something else?
 
no no thin thin flakes, all metal. Ya I was planning on rebuilding a tranny for it within some time, guess that should be sooner now. Ya I don't think the fluid had been changed it quite some time.
What kind of fluid you guys use, I've got Royal Purple, had good luck with it so far.
 
7dswinger said:
no no thin thin flakes, all metal. Ya I was planning on rebuilding a tranny for it within some time, guess that should be sooner now. Ya I don't think the fluid had been changed it quite some time.
What kind of fluid you guys use, I've got Royal Purple, had good luck with it so far.
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If your gonna rebuild it why use expensive fluid. I've used std. dexron ATF for 30 yrs. now with good results.

Ok in the TF-2 instructions on page 3, I've got a 72 VB with the four slots, do I still use the drill plate or not and drill?
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I've always used the drill plate but I haven't done many 904's, mostly 727's. What do the Trans-go instructions say to do?
 
Don't ask, you'll start another fluid preference discussion a mile long. :)

I use type F, but literally any fluid will work just fine.
I recently made a joke about using recycled french fry oil and they would still work fine. (And they probably would)

Royal purple is a wast of money in my oppinion, but it's fine too.

As far as the slotted VB plate, I seem to remember that you leave the slotted area the way it is, but Tracey may have more current info.

I am doing this by memory for the most part, and have been out of it profesionally for a few decades.
I used to be an Ammco service manager/trans builder in a six bay shop in Cal in another life.
My specialty was stick shifts and BMW, Mercedes and Volvo automatics.
Drawn towards the more complicated stuff I guess.
The other guys did most of the standard american stuff.

Ah, he answered before I got done typing.
 
fishy68 said:
I've always used the drill plate but I haven't done many 904's, mostly 727's. What do the Trans-go instructions say to do?
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Oh, your asking about drilling out the dam between the oil tracks.
I thought you meant the holes in the plate.
 
They say to do it but there's all this "if it's this year do that and this and not this but that" so it's a little confusion. I think I should do it as it doesn't give any exceptions.

What's the usual price on getting a 904 rebuilt generally?

Alright question withdrawn lol
 
woah woah hold on I can't type that fast hahaha

Yes that is what I was asking about lol
 
Alright I got all but one of the holes drilled. The last one, which you're supposed to drill through the line bypass ball and spring socket. If you look at the directions (page 4 step 1) it says to drill it under "x" but I'm not quite sure where to drill it still, posted a pic of what I'm saying, I know what side it is but not up and down.

Is it drilled in the area where the red arrow is, the round, barrel looking thing, or where the black arrow is pointing in that flat area.
17b02c50-34ed-453f-ab49-095c55decab0_zps16d7aad8.jpg
 
I can't tell for sure with that camera angle but if yours has the bypass ball and spring you drill into the spring pocket. Apparently your directions must be than mine cause mine speaks about it on page 5. Here's what mine shows
 

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  • TransGo TF2 Pg5.jpg
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Right, that's what my directions show as well, I'm just confused on how high or low you drill the hole, cause you can drill (the bottom being where all the channels are) up high on the where the red arrows pointing or way down at the bottom where the black arrows pointing, I believe it's up top but I don't want to make a hole where it shouldn't be
 
I believe it's just to relieve pressure so you can drill it most anywhere in the side of the pocket, it's not picky. Make sure and de-burr the inside after drilling so the spring doesn't catch on a burr.
 
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