Small block TrickFlow heads part 1

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See if you can get some specs and pricing… maybe when you do we can start a Bloomer head thread….

just call him and ask.
I know a drag week car that had just put them on( pump gas 416) went 132 mph in summer air with them and the combo still needs tweaking..
Convertor off, etc, etc
 
just call him and ask.
I know a drag week car that had just put them on( pump gas 416) went 132 mph in summer air with them and the combo still needs tweaking..
Convertor off, etc, etc
The guy is not exactly the king of marketing… where is his contact information to be had?
 
I believe if John goes full tilt on the Trick Flow 190 it will be on top of the small block head chart.
Excluding W's and Indy.
 
Ok one thing I forgot to mention the other day my favorite set of intake gaskets that I usually have 5-10 sets laying around which is Edelbrock 7276 fits the intake face perfectly. First thing I found out today after checking intake and exhaust calibration was don’t expect to use the regular 1/2 inch National Fine nuts on the outside bolt holes. These will require the smaller 12 point head nuts.
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Grind the corners off that nut and tack weld it to another nut to stack them. Drill out the top nut or use a bolt to line the threads up. Should give you enough clearance and a hex to tighten on? If you have the 12pt nuts already, then carry on.
 
Well guys this stinks. I finished mounting the head and started the flow test and at .300 lift my old laptop put up a computer error code and screen went blank except for the warning. I shut down the computer a couple of times and it’s “black screened” and I got nothing. I called my son in Denver and he is on his way to the Denver Broncos football game so I’m screwed till who knows when. This sucks
 
I have an Australian 1974 Valiant Charger that weighs about 3200lbs with me in it. I have recently changed from home ported edelbrock heads to otb Trick flow heads. I also changed the cam from a 234/236 cam to a 237/243 cam with .620 lift and changed from an rpm air gap to a victor340 manifold. My old version made 392 rear wheel hp but new dyno results show 425 rear wheel hp. The dyno shows new combo to be making less torque but on the road the car feels much livelier than before as it is a five speed manual and just opening the throttle to about qtr way in second gear will just light the tyres and instantly revs go to six grand. The old combo has done a 11.4 @ 120mph but have not taken new combo to the track as due to coronavirus our track has been shut for about four months. I also had clutch slipping issues that have now been solved with a new twin plate clutch set up. When our track opens back up I hope the new combo will run a real low eleven sec time.
 
Ok one thing I forgot to mention the other day my favorite set of intake gaskets that I usually have 5-10 sets laying around which is Edelbrock 7276 fits the intake face perfectly. First thing I found out today after checking intake and exhaust calibration was don’t expect to use the regular 1/2 inch National Fine nuts on the outside bolt holes. These will require the smaller 12 point head nuts. View attachment 1715800258
Their instructions state that the head bolts or studs/nuts kits they list as items being “required” A need for the flanged reduced bolt head (9/16” hex) or the smaller 12-point nuts for tool clearance is obvious, but I never checked to see if the bolt lengths were the same as the factory bolts. Have you checked the lengths of all the studs your using? I assume they are the correct lengths and it’s just the reduced bolt head/nut size that’s different.

A849CEEF-072D-4379-A17B-62878E5DED23.jpeg
 
Their instructions state that the head bolts or studs/nuts kits they list as items being “required” A need for the flanged reduced bolt head (9/16” hex) or the smaller 12-point nuts for tool clearance is obvious, but I never checked to see if the bolt lengths were the same as the factory bolts. Have you checked the lengths of all the studs your using? I assume they are the correct lengths and it’s just the reduced bolt head/nut size that’s different.

View attachment 1715800534



I plan on measuring them but I didn’t yet as I wanted to get flow numbers, airspeed numbers, and sonic numbers at the pinch and head bolts. I can tell you that my head adapter that I made used a head gasket and studs to center the head. I had to raise the stud on the center row so I’m guessing they require longer studs or bolts.
 
Nice to see that I got my TrickFlow head cheaper than what an Edelbrock head is selling for. Ohhhh and they are out of stock to.
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M/official's comment about opening the p'rod pinch. Agree completely.
Often the port restriction is not the pinch area but downstream closer to the valve. Enlarging the pinch area just increases port volume & reduces velocity.
 
Well maybe some good news. I have another laptop I bought last year to take to the track or at home for reading my RacePak info off my SD card. It also comes in handy for website work on long race weekends. Well I couldn’t find my Flowsoft download so I contacted Bruce that sells the flowbench blueprints and parts for building them and he emailed me the download. I couldn’t get it loaded on my new computer so I waited till my son was off work in Colorado. We did a FaceTime call and found out my Ad Block Plus was blocking the download. With his help I got it installed and hopefully I have the proper leads to get it plugged into my flowbench. We shall hopefully find out tomorrow.
 
Is the interface to the flow bench through a serial port, USB, or something else? Just wondering if the old crap I have around here could be put to use.
 
Is the interface to the flow bench through a serial port, USB, or something else? Just wondering if the old crap I have around here could be put to use.


I’m kinda computer stupid but I think it’s a USB port. Ethan is going to keep his eyes open on something cheap for me. Now that I have an IPhone 12 I rarely use the computer to go on line but it is a nice option. My shop is about 150 feet from my router so it is just out of range but I have unlimited data so I can use my phone as a hotspot when needed. Probably wouldn’t pay to fix my old one especially with Christmas sales coming.
 
Ok finally got this flowsoft program up and running. Windows 10 sure did make things harder on an old program like this. Ok I checked calibration with a 300cfm plate and as always it checked in at 299-301. My bore adapter measures 4.015 and TrickFlow says they use a 4.000 bore so that’s close. Real close. My numbers are on the left and TrickFlows advertised numbers are on the right. I expected close numbers and as you can see they came in close. These heads should make power BUT I’m going to show what I think is holding them back some. Hopefully it can be addressed.
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Good numbers…I would call that as advertised flow.
 
Ok I’m going to lose a few guys but maybe others can maybe put things in better words. All numbers listed are FPS (foot per second) my readings limit out at 401 which is to damn fast. The picture is marked top, bottom, pinch, and common wall. As you can see the dinky port entrance maxes out on the whole port wall at the pinch with great numbers everywhere else.
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Ok this is going across the shortside floor. The straight, common wall tapers in almost the whole way down to the shortside losing area. As you can see my meter is pegged 3/4 of the way across then starts backing off rapidly. The shortside is blocking that area and that is the real good air heading into the center of the head chamber. At .550 lift it only gets worse. These heads are very nice but don’t even think about going with a bigger valve or making big horsepower till that’s addressed. Is there metal left to open it up. Hopefully time will tell. I’m going to flow the exhaust
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tomorrow and try to call TrickFlow. I tried today but it was close to closing time and no one picked up. They did exactly what they wanted to do with this head. They made a great street, street strip head. Mission accomplished.
 
Ok this is going across the shortside floor. The straight, common wall tapers in almost the whole way down to the shortside losing area. As you can see my meter is pegged 3/4 of the way across then starts backing off rapidly. The shortside is blocking that area and that is the real good air heading into the center of the head chamber. At .550 lift it only gets worse. These heads are very nice but don’t even think about going with a bigger valve or making big horsepower till that’s addressed. Is there metal left to open it up. Hopefully time will tell. I’m going to flow the exhaust View attachment 1715801547 tomorrow and try to call TrickFlow. I tried today but it was close to closing time and no one picked up. They did exactly what they wanted to do with this head. They made a great street, street strip head. Mission accomplished.
Very cool
Great info
I would pay to see a video of you performing this magic.
 
Ok I’m going to lose a few guys but maybe others can maybe put things in better words. All numbers listed are FPS (foot per second) my readings limit out at 401 which is to damn fast. The picture is marked top, bottom, pinch, and common wall. As you can see the dinky port entrance maxes out on the whole port wall at the pinch with great numbers everywhere else. View attachment 1715801542
How far into the port is your velocity probe for those numbers? Fun stuff
 
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