That must be your brother in the pic I guess.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
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Nope doesn't register, but I would like to know where both of Tim's hands are.
MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
How’s it going Stephan? Still in the boat?
"Bulletproof vests don't work unless everyone wears them. Duh." 
You did not feel That?
Tim does have that guilty smile going also!
Crazy Glue?
Women tell me I do have an attractive rear.You did not feel That?
Or is it they love to see me go?
Well my car just pulled up. Later men.
You bustin' my chops?
No silly.
You said the neutral safety doesn't seem to work.
Right?
I said take a pencil and follow the path to the place your checking, that you say isn't working.
Just like you started to describe here.
Place pencil on the battery and follow along the path the goes through the test lamp and back to the battery.
Like orange arrows here:
Here's your colored pencil.
Mark where you attached the test lamp and then see use the pencil to if you've made a complete path.
Follow?
I dunno. Ask them?
Reading what youy wrote here. ^
Battery can not be at 14.4 Volts on its own. So either its a wrong reading or the alternator is running.
You show by a green line that you had continuity at the starter terminal on the key switch?
Is that correct?
That shouldn't be, except when the key is turned to start.
Wire S2 only gets power when the key is in Start.
Ignition 2 (start) should have some power with key in run (fed through ballast resistor) and full power with key in Start.
Accessory and Run should have power when the key is in run position
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
I gotcha now, hang on
You bustin' my chops?
No silly.
You said the neutral safety doesn't seem to work.
Right?
I said take a pencil and follow the path to the place your checking, that you say isn't working.
Just like you started to describe here.
Place pencil on the battery and follow along the path the goes through the test lamp and back to the battery.
Like orange arrows here:
View attachment 1715782391
Here's your colored pencil.
View attachment 1715782390
Mark where you attached the test lamp and then see use the pencil to if you've made a complete path.
Follow?
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Correct. The alternator is turning for the 14.4 measurement. But that was with the key on, and me jumping the starter terminals. It won’t crank yet on its own. I gave up for today.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
So here it is.
You bustin' my chops?
No silly.
You said the neutral safety doesn't seem to work.
Right?
I said take a pencil and follow the path to the place your checking, that you say isn't working.
Just like you started to describe here.
Place pencil on the battery and follow along the path the goes through the test lamp and back to the battery.
Like orange arrows here:
View attachment 1715782391
Here's your colored pencil.
View attachment 1715782390
Mark where you attached the test lamp and then see use the pencil to if you've made a complete path.
Follow?
purple= key off, positive power(red light in test light)
orange = key held in start position, tested positive for power
Green = tested positive for power in the run position.
Pink was tested with a voltage meter on 200 ohms for continuity between the wire coming from the switch on the trans to the starter relay up on the fire wall, with trans in park and neutral. Multimeter shows an O.C on the read out. Instruction booklet says that’s an open circuit and no continuity?
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
I’m thinking it’s the switch or the wire is bad because the voltmeter is showing an open circuit code when I tried to test it, unless I did it wrong which is a total possibility
Great! 
So the next thing you can check with the multimeter is the switch itself.
One probe on the tranmission housing and the other on the terminal.
Yes. Open circuit means the switch is not closed.
So the next thing you can check with the multimeter is the switch itself.
One probe on the tranmission housing and the other on the terminal.
Yes. Open circuit means the switch is not closed.
LOL. multimeter.
Gonna confuse the heck out people with your voltemter reading in ohms.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
HellLOL. multimeter.
Gonna confuse the heck out people with your voltemter reading in ohms.
I’m confusing me, or was it myself or I. Wait what year is it haha.
I used all available brain power today on this. Gonna jump back in first thing in the Am, thank you very much for your help. I’m sure it’s frustrating as hell trying to teach and help someone over the internet that has admittedly struggled with understanding electrical stuff even at a basic level. But I’m determined to learn and figure it out. We all just might be 3-4 hundred years old by that time lol
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Thanks!!!Great!
So the next thing you can check with the multimeter is the switch itself.
One probe on the tranmission housing and the other on the terminal.
Yes. Open circuit means the switch is not closed.
Yes. Knowing the S2 wire is getting power to the relay when the key is in start,
a jumper to ground instead of the wire to the NSS will bypass a problem in the wire or the NSS.
a jumper to ground instead of the wire to the NSS will bypass a problem in the wire or the NSS.
That’s what she said.
With a connection to ground, current will flow through the relay like this.
As soon as it does that, the electromagnet in the relay will pull the internal switch connecting stud terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Then the solenoid on the starter engages, and that does the same thing inside the starter.
As soon as it does that, the electromagnet in the relay will pull the internal switch connecting stud terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Then the solenoid on the starter engages, and that does the same thing inside the starter.
So tempted to go do a test tutorial on my starting system in the Fargo. Should be similar.
Maybe the dam trans lever isnt all the way back in park. Or in neutral. Thats what i like about my ohmmeter, it will set off a tone in a continous circuit.
i prefer my power probe, it has an automatic magic smoke release prevention switch built in (circuit breaker)
Maybe the dam trans lever isnt all the way back in park. Or in neutral. Thats what i like about my ohmmeter, it will set off a tone in a continous circuit.
i prefer my power probe, it has an automatic magic smoke release prevention switch built in (circuit breaker)
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
hmmm now that is a thought I hadn’t thought of. The pushbutton cables have to be adjusted just right, They already connected to the trans when I got it , just connected the other ends to the shifter up top, but I probably need to double check their adjustment.
Thanks!
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