Stop in for a cup of coffee

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RustyRatRod said:
I'll admit, that's about the only way I can afford it.....BUT I draw the line at not having certain things dead on. Like crank clearances, guide clearances and seat and valve faces, for example. I don't compromise "there".
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Some machining may be unnecessary for a simple street build. Checking straightness and clearances don't cost much but time. For instance, no need to line bore unless there is an issue. Turn and/or polish the crank as needed. Check the clearances and install it with assembly lube. If the crank spins freely you should be good.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'll admit, that's about the only way I can afford it.....BUT I draw the line at not having certain things dead on. Like crank clearances, guide clearances and seat and valve faces, for example. I don't compromise "there".
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Crank clearances were checked by the machine shop.
Aluminum Edlebrock RPM Heads were checked out and assembled by Indy cylinder heads. I got them for a song new though via the Mopar Tim express
 
toolmanmike said:
Some machining may be unnecessary for a simple street build. Checking straightness and clearances don't cost much but time. For instance, no need to line bore unless there is an issue. Turn and/or polish the crank as needed. Check the clearances and install it with assembly lube. If the crank spins freely you should be good.
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My block was tanked, magnafluxed, line bored, decked to .00, bores honed with plates.

Crank was polished, didnt need turned, and rebalanced for the new rods and pistons etc

Shop is very reputable locally anyway.

The key for my low buck build was finding things on sale and using Advance Autos TRT41 code they had at the time that took 40 percent off purchases of 100 or more. Plus it was stackable with the 20 percent military discount they had at the time. I’m probably the reason they don’t have that code anymore haha
 
dukeboy_318 said:
My block was tanked, magnafluxed, line bored, decked to .00, bores honed with plates.

Crank was polished, didnt need turned, and rebalanced for the new rods and pistons etc

Shop is very reputable locally anyway.

The key for my low buck build was finding things on sale and using Advance Autos TRT41 code they had at the time that took 40 percent off purchases of 100 or more. Plus it was stackable with the 20 percent military discount they had at the time. I’m probably the reason they don’t have that code anymore haha
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Jesus that is some serious discount...
 
dukeboy_318 said:
My block was tanked, magnafluxed, line bored, decked to .00, bores honed with plates.

Crank was polished, didnt need turned, and rebalanced for the new rods and pistons etc

Shop is very reputable locally anyway.

The key for my low buck build was finding things on sale and using Advance Autos TRT41 code they had at the time that took 40 percent off purchases of 100 or more. Plus it was stackable with the 20 percent military discount they had at the time. I’m probably the reason they don’t have that code anymore haha
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It sure can be done if you have reasonable machine prices and have the time to seek out deals.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It sure can be done if you have reasonable machine prices and have the time to seek out deals.
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well the downside is this: the build took me going on 10 years for the car, 7 for the engine from the time I bought the block.
 
Needs no explanation. lol
HIGHWAY TO HEY LOOK THERE'S A SQUIRREL.jpg
 
dukeboy_318 said:
well the downside is this: the build took me going on 10 years for the car, 7 for the engine from the time I bought the block.
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I can relate. I just finished the engine swap in Gladys. Took me five months.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I can relate. I just finished the engine swap in Gladys. Took me five months.
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I will say this. I started with a very clean block. One that was already bored over .030 and had spun a rod due to high rpm oil starvation but appeared to have been shut down very quickly as there was very little glitter when I took it apart.

One thing I didn’t include is the parts I sold off of it. Like the thermoquad the big 1000 cfm one and the AVS carb it came with as a spare. Or the E body oil pan, Or the torker II as previously mentioned, or the adjustable isky rockers which I wish i had kept in hindsight. Even sold the old rods and pistons(13.5:1 Keith blacks). All that would drop my cost to just under 2100 out of pocket.
 
Morning another inch of rain, had some roads closed from being washed out. Should be a good time trying to find my way south.
Coffee and oatmeal then load my bag and cooler in the car up and go.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I will say this. I started with a very clean block. One that was already bored over .030 and had spun a rod due to high rpm oil starvation but appeared to have been shut down very quickly as there was very little glitter when I took it apart.

One thing I didn’t include is the parts I sold off of it. Like the thermoquad the big 1000 cfm one and the AVS carb it came with as a spare. Or the E body oil pan, Or the torker II as previously mentioned, or the adjustable isky rockers which I wish i had kept in hindsight. Even sold the old rods and pistons(13.5:1 Keith blacks). All that would drop my cost to just under 2100 out of pocket.
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Well all that counts. Any sales of parts towards the project to offset costs. That's smart.
 
Hmm well it’s looking more and more like this old Hemi is gonna end up a coffee table or something. Seems no one is making the transmission adapters any longer.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Hmm well it’s looking more and more like this old Hemi is gonna end up a coffee table or something. Seems no one is making the transmission adapters any longer.
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Not for the long bellhousing. They just don't fit in many applications.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well all that counts. Any sales of parts towards the project to offset costs. That's smart.
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I have an excel sheet that tracked everything I’ve spent on the dart.

When I got the dart, it came with a TON of extra parts, many for different years. And come big ticket items like the 8.75 rear and a pumpkins.

I need to add my paint materials cost and some other small things,

I do need to double check these numbers, but believe it or not, I have right now, less than 5,000 out of pocket in the dart. That’s everything from suspension to sheet metal to trans and rear axle. Including the motor costs already mentioned.

Hell I still can’t believe that Glastek sold me one of the normally 700 dollar hoods for 100 bucks at the Indy swap in 2014. Just cause they had gotten tired of using it as their display piece at their shows.

Now this is dart ONLY parts and materials. And professional/third party labor fees.
Doesn’t include my time or welding consumables.
 
That would make me nuts... i am actively trying to not think bout it, just doing the numbers in my head makes me sad.. i'm money obsessed though
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I have an excel sheet that tracked everything I’ve spent on the dart.

When I got the dart, it came with a TON of extra parts, many for different years. And come big ticket items like the 8.75 rear and a pumpkins.

I need to add my paint materials cost and some other small things,

I do need to double check these numbers, but believe it or not, I have right now, less than 5,000 out of pocket in the dart. That’s everything from suspension to sheet metal to trans and rear axle. Including the motor costs already mentioned.

Hell I still can’t believe that Glastek sold me one of the normally 700 dollar hoods for 100 bucks at the Indy swap in 2014. Just cause they had gotten tired of using it as their display piece at their shows.

Now this is dart ONLY parts and materials. And professional/third party labor fees.
Doesn’t include my time or welding consumables.
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I believe it, because I have less than that in Vixen.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I have no qualms cutting down a 727 to make it happen. I could probably engineer an adapter plate if I had too.
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The thing to cut is the bellhousing. There was a kit offered a LONG time ago to do just that. I remember reading about it in a thread on one of the early hemi sites.
 
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