Stop in for a cup of coffee

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halifaxhops said:
I did the truck also. How the heck do they know how much you drive it no inspection no milage noted.
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Just disco the Speedo. And use a GPS for speed.
I actually have a funny story about being stopped in Kansas with the GPS Speedo.
Then again As I've often been told I have a story for every occasion.
 
Maxcustody said:
No Idea..............the one that is every 10 year cycle, no inspection needed and no daily driver. I guess after the 10 year cycle which is up in 2025, I need to renew, kind of confusing...............Here is the plate I have to give them a color copy and I am taking the plate with me. No idea if I need to, but better to have it if they ask.

View attachment 1716107065
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In Kansas on a 35 year or older car we can use a Kansas tag of the year of the car. 67 was a blue colored tag so it was a no brainer with a dark blue car. They just do a separate renewal every year no sticker just display the tag for the cool look. I had to take the tag in and they ran a check for whatever reason and then assigned it to me and the car. I think I pay $17 a year for it.
 
Matt is doing it. I have no time right now. He is looking for one he feels bad since he sold it to us. I am sure it will be 1500 or so for sure. V6, 4200?
 
Good ting my Swinger didn't have that "occasional" stipulation attached :lol: It was my daily driver for 3 months while my knee healed up. Right leg on the passenger's side of the transmission hump kinda thing. Didn't have enough usable feet to drive the 5 speed work truck :lol:
 
No idea. I asked here if any lights came on. Answer yes the headlights were on it was raining! My life. Definately seized. Was a great running motor also 110k on it.
 
71GSSDemon said:
Good Morning Guys. I hope all is well. Got the longer pushrods installed in my Boy's hot rod. That fixed one issue. Runs well and valvetrain is quiet. It still loads up and wants to flood. Need to sort that. The bigger issue is the increased idle rpm for the new cam also needs a looser converter it appears. Idle 1000, drop in gear and pulls it down to 500 and wants to die. If turning the idle up enough to idle in gear then it is at 1800 in park. Seems due to its original application motor/trans was in a van, likely a very low stall speed. Next....ugh
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I would say too lean in idle. Probably likes lots of timing at idle in neutral. That's an illusion.
 
Old man ray said:
But classic cars are required to be saftey inspected.
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Not here. Kansas does an out of state inspection to verify an out of state VIN and title before Kansas registration but NO safety inspections. With that said though I occasionally see vehicles on the road that maybe shouldn't be.
 
MomsDuster said:
Good morning folks, @71GSSDemon Eric, no expert here but, where is your idle timing at on your boys ride? I know mine likes a lot of initial.
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Mark, what timing do you run in your ride?
Mattax said:
I would say too lean in idle. Probably likes lots of timing at idle in neutral. That's an illusion.
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The boys car is 1931 Model A sedan with 460 C6 and 9" (3.55). This spring we changed to closed chamber DOVE heads for a nice bump in compression and a Comp Cam Thumpr cam. Everything I have read says they like 12-14° at idle which seems low on the Mopar side of things. I can try richening it up. It has and Edelbrock AVS2 from his grandpa on it @Just Ron but I don't know much about them other than the idle adjustments on the front.
 
MN. We can get a collector plate, one time fee. Used to be able to register old plates that would have been on cars Back in the day but they won’t do this any more. Only have to display on rear of car. I have an old original yr plate on front of Barracuda. VB6 273. (Valiant Barracuda ’66’ 273cu in) Should have registered it when they allowed it
 
71GSSDemon said:
Mark, what timing do you run in your ride?


The boys car is 1931 Model A sedan with 460 C6 and 9" (3.55). This spring we changed to closed chamber DOVE heads for a nice bump in compression and a Comp Cam Thumpr cam. Everything I have read says they like 12-14° at idle which seems low on the Mopar side of things. I can try richening it up. It has and Edelbrock AVS2 from his grandpa on it @Just Ron but I don't know much about them other than the idle adjustments on the front.
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I agree seems like not enough initial, but its a big engine. Do you know the cam duration?
Can look at the Barry Grant chart for a ballpark initial.

Anything that lowers 'dynamic' compression or allows more exhaust dilution at idle will need more initial.


Another thing to watch out for is the initial isn't the initial.
Easier to give an example.
Say timing is set at 13* at 1000 rpm.
Then when placed in gear, because its not making much power, rpm drops and unknown to us, the timing drops with rpm.
Now its 11* at 800 rpm. Its not making much power, rpm drops and unkwn to us, timing drops with rpm.
Finally it hits the real initial timing at 9* and 650 rpm, its not making much power, so rpm drops to 500.
 
MomsDuster said:
I see @Mattax has chimed in, I will fade back into the woodwork as he is the GURU in the tuning world. His input has always helped me tremendously. :thumbsup:
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No heck I'm going to make breakfast, and then juggle things I need to do for work, pack, cook, pack and figure out how I'm going to make this week pull together. LOL.
 
71GSSDemon said:
Mark, what timing do you run in your ride?


The boys car is 1931 Model A sedan with 460 C6 and 9" (3.55). This spring we changed to closed chamber DOVE heads for a nice bump in compression and a Comp Cam Thumpr cam. Everything I have read says they like 12-14° at idle which seems low on the Mopar side of things. I can try richening it up. It has and Edelbrock AVS2 from his grandpa on it @Just Ron but I don't know much about them other than the idle adjustments on the front.
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Ford Motorcraft distributor?
I think they are somewhat similar to the Chrysler design.
Haven't messed with them, but also used by AMC.
 
Mattax said:
I agree seems like not enough initial, but its a big engine. Do you know the cam duration?
Can look at the Barry Grant chart for a ballpark initial.

Anything that lowers 'dynamic' compression or allows more exhaust dilution at idle will need more initial.


Another thing to watch out for is the initial isn't the initial.
Easier to give an example.
Say timing is set at 13* at 1000 rpm.
Then when placed in gear, because its not making much power, rpm drops and unknown to us, the timing drops with rpm.
Now its 11* at 800 rpm. Its not making much power, rpm drops and unkwn to us, timing drops with rpm.
Finally it hits the real initial timing at 9* and 650 rpm, its not making much power, so rpm drops to 500.
Click to expand...
1687781178591.png
 
MomsDuster said:
I see @Mattax has chimed in, I will fade back into the woodwork as he is the GURU in the tuning world. His input has always helped me tremendously. :thumbsup:
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Matt is the guru and has helped me with lots of my garbage. Demon works amazing now!
 
Mattax said:
Ford Motorcraft distributor?
I think they are somewhat similar to the Chrysler design.
Haven't messed with them, but also used by AMC.
Click to expand...
It is a drop in GM style HEI distributor.
 
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