Stop in for a cup of coffee

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I have a feeling this transmission will have to come out again. Acts like low on fluid but it's not. 10 quarts...deep pan. Right on full on dip stick
 
I have a feeling this transmission will have to come out again. Acts like low on fluid but it's not. 10 quarts...deep pan. Right on full on dip stick
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I have a feeling this transmission will have to come out again. Acts like low on fluid but it's not. 10 quarts...deep pan. Right on full on dip stick
That's why I like the extra pedal option.:poke::poke:.
To many mixed parts in the setup you have Tim.
Then that's just my unprofessional opinion.
 
With the window casing where it is Mike, I'd say remove the panel up to the height of the refrigerator and cap it with a piece of trim or something. The shelf would stabilize the top portion. Matching a cabinet might be a PITA

That'll avoid the footprint on the ceiling I'm guessing is there.

View attachment 1716295942

View attachment 1716295943
My thoughts exactly. We do have a cabinet that may fit that void above the frig. (made by the company that made the cabinets). Either way, that wall piece needs go get moved or removed. If we do, the frig can be slid back in the hole another 3 inches making it more counter depth and there will be some better ventilation back behind it which will be easier on the unit.
 
My thought is about what the impact on the ceiling is. Mine are all pattern textured, which you wouldn't be able to recreate.
There is just a box for the frig. Above it is finished and wallpapered.

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Cool

I'd lean toward a shelf across to support. You'll have the raw edge to deal with, which you could stain if it's solid wood, or put a piece of trim off it's press board, just to seal it up.

Other option would to be remove it all, then, if the wallpaper is just that strip, remove that bit of paper and the top board to go with a skim coat and and ceiling paint
 
Cool

I'd lean toward a shelf across to support. You'll have the raw edge to deal with, which you could stain if it's solid wood, or put a piece of trim off it's press board, just to seal it up.

Other option would to be remove it all, then, if the wallpaper is just that strip, remove that bit of paper and the top board to go with a skim coat and and ceiling paint
Oak. I'll see if the cabinet fits before cutting anything. That will tell me what can be done.
 
And most are made overseas with poor QC, wouldn’t surprise me
Research cheetah valve bodies not cheap made overseas. Made in the USA. Premium. However it has been taken apart and cleaned. So who knows if it was assembled correctly
 
Old Movie night here. Blonde for a Day.
Detective Mike Shayne tries to protect a female reporter marked for death by the mobsters she is about to expose.
 
This converter cost a grand. Son of a...
Not driving it anymore. Hopefully converter won't get full of debris
 
Driving my 66 some. It seems like the line pressure is lower. Cheetah valve body was taken apart and cleaned. I bet the pressure was not set to Cheetah specs. Hmmmm
Adjustment is pretty easy, at least on a 727.
Measuring not so easy. Got to find someone to let you use their lift.
I haven't been able to get those stars to line up
 
Adjustment is pretty easy, at least on a 727.
Measuring not so easy. Got to find someone to let you use their lift.
I haven't been able to get those stars to line up
It's brand new converter and just rebuild 904. Not even 20 miles on it....should be perfect
 
Its been a while so maybe I'm missing something. What's does either have to do with line pressure?
 
Its been a while so maybe I'm missing something. What's does either have to do with line pressure?
Trans failed. Replaced with new rebuild. Used original cheetah valvebody. It was new. Failed trans less then 400 miles on it. Bought new PTC Converter. Got it put back together seemed ok. Shifted fine
Now next day soft shifts and no movement after sitting a little while. Put in neutral for a minute trans will move. But still not as strong a 1 2 shift. Valve body was disassembled to clean.
 
@Mopar Tim
Hey Tim,
Did you have rev when It delayed forward?
Sound like a convertor drain back issue, won't move on start up but let run in neutral pumps converter full then will move and work.
Soft shifts now that we're ok earlier and drain back are both valve body issues with PR valve and convertor fill valve, bad valve body or sticking valves .
Lon
 
man... so day 4 of water heater fun :) On one of the pipes it had like 3 couplers from old repairs and ****, and corrosion and a small leak.. i said **** it and cut it all out and did all new so it's pretty :) BUT.... i was doing the little brass flange that connects it to the heater.. the solder flowed soooo perfect i was like hot damn! for some reason it makes me happy... then i realized i didn't put the ******* nut on first.. sweat it back off :(

All fixed now.. no leaks. but grrr knew i would forget the nut a hour before i did it too :)

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