DA4AD
Well-Known Member
Any pictures of conversion driveshafts and/or the front yoke/adapter when using a Challenger TR6060?
T-56 Transmission Install Thread
- Thread starter Riddler
- Start date
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Riddler
Project EH-Body
Well I guess it's my turn to address my clutch issues. Using a Viper slave with 1/2" spacer, Wilwood master, ACT clutch and PP, McLeon flywheel. Car has no issues going into gear when it's off. I can push the clutch pedal down and start it. But I can't switch gears with the car running. Pushing the clutch down doesn't release. I'm thinking the slave isn't pushing the pressure plate enough to release the clutch.
I'm thinking I'm going to see about bleeding everything again, then check to see if the firewall is flexing. Finally I'll have to drop the trans again and inspect everything.
@72BBSwinger @Map63Vette
Help me out, I want to drive this car!
Riddler
I'm thinking I'm going to see about bleeding everything again, then check to see if the firewall is flexing. Finally I'll have to drop the trans again and inspect everything.
@72BBSwinger @Map63Vette
Help me out, I want to drive this car!
Riddler
Map63Vette
Well-Known Member
If you do have to drop the trans, take a look at the pressure plate. Mine had a broken finger (3 finger style) that was keeping it from releasing.
Does it not work right away or do things have to get hot first? I also wrapped my clutch line in a heat sock thinking that was the problem originally. Figure it doesn't hurt to leave on.
Does it not work right away or do things have to get hot first? I also wrapped my clutch line in a heat sock thinking that was the problem originally. Figure it doesn't hurt to leave on.
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Right now I'm thinking it's the trans itself. Might be bad.. Sychro's or bent fork. I'm hoping to get to the shop soon and see if I can look at it instead of hearing from them...
Riddler
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Could it be a shifter problem? My jeep was popping out of fear. Took it in under warranty and they found the shifter had worn and was causing the problem. So they replaced it and never have had the problem again
Riddler
Project EH-Body
It's something I can have them check but it's new when I bought the trans. I fear the worse...
Riddler
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
lets just hope its something simple.
Riddler
Project EH-Body
The trans is getting removed today so we can take a look at the clutch, pressure plate, etc. Shop wants to send the trans over to a tranny shop for an inspection. I don't understand this since I drove it onto the trailer for them to do exhaust and alignment as well as some paint touch ups.
Riddler
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
HMM ODD
Dragger40
POZEST!
OK.... I hate to admit this and it is going to be a long read but here it goes....
I drove my car out of my shop back in December to go to the upholstery shop. I came off of my four post rack and out the door which is slightly down hill so that didn't put very much strain on my clutch. This was only the third time that the car had ever been started and the Holley Dominator EFI was still learning so I didn't really give the car any gas to speak of.
I needed to trailer the car to the shop because the frontend still needed an alignment. When I went to back the car up to make room for the trailer, it wouldn't pull itself in reverse. It also wouldn't pull itself forward after that. It was trying to pull but it was making a growling/rubbing noise after that like the clutch was slipping.
I never split the trans and engine after I got it from Cleveland P&P so I knew that the clutch should've been right on this 17k mile drivetrain. The only thing that I could figure was that the hydraulic throwout bearing wasn't fully engaging the clutch when I let off of the pedal OR my clutch was bad.
After multple attempts at bleeding and troubleshooting everything that I could think of, I dropped the trans. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary other that the clutch looked like it had been SLIGHTLY hot. I've seen a lot worse! I read online where the factory clutches had gone out at low miles before and that (in some people's opinion) they just weren't that good. I ordered a new Spec clutch, flywheel, TOB, pilot bearing, bellhousing and master cylinder. I figured I might as well make it bulletproof while I'm spending money. lol
After installing everything, I had the same results. The only thing that I hadn't changed was the braided line and plastic line that comes from the master to the TOB. I called on a couple of guys from the forum that are using that same drivetrain from Cleaveland that I am just to compare lines and make sure that they are hooked up correctly because I was desperate to find ANYTHING that could be my problem at this point.
NOW HERE'S WHAT YOU WANT TO READ!
I had bumped the starter early on in this process without the hydraulic line hooked up so that I could make sure that the clutch had clamping force. The car lunged forward and I let off quickly. This satisfied me that I had a TOB problem. AFTER messing with this thing forever I finally got irritated and tried to start it in gear again. IT STARTED IN GEAR without the TOB hooked to the master and made the same noise that it did back in December. Out of desperation, I raised the car up (on my four post) and had a buddy look under it to see if the yoke or the conversion driveshaft was turning (while I started it) so that I could eliminate the transmission and driveshaft. I know, I'm dangerous! They were both turning. I DON'T HAVE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM.
I dropped my Sure grip out of my 8 3/4 housing and realized that my axles were going through the first set of splines in the carrier and just barely catching the second set of splines in the spider gears. This allowed the car to move in the beginning but once the splines that were barely catching wore off, the axles were turning against the spiders and creating the illusion that my clutch was slipping and making the rubbing/grinding noise that I was hearing.
I put Wilwood disc brakes on my car and the spacers brought my axles out just enough to cause this whole problem. If you have the 69' spider gears that Cass "Doctor Diff" sells, you won't have this problem as they are splined the whole was across. The earlier gears are split right in the middle and this is the issue if you back off your axles very much at all.
Riddler.... from reading your posts, I'm not sure if this could be the same issue that you are having but look into it.
I feel like a Dumb *** and you old school Mopar guys probably know all about this issue but I just experienced it for the first time and if I can pass this along and help someone else out.... that's what hot rodding is all about!!
I drove my car out of my shop back in December to go to the upholstery shop. I came off of my four post rack and out the door which is slightly down hill so that didn't put very much strain on my clutch. This was only the third time that the car had ever been started and the Holley Dominator EFI was still learning so I didn't really give the car any gas to speak of.
I needed to trailer the car to the shop because the frontend still needed an alignment. When I went to back the car up to make room for the trailer, it wouldn't pull itself in reverse. It also wouldn't pull itself forward after that. It was trying to pull but it was making a growling/rubbing noise after that like the clutch was slipping.
I never split the trans and engine after I got it from Cleveland P&P so I knew that the clutch should've been right on this 17k mile drivetrain. The only thing that I could figure was that the hydraulic throwout bearing wasn't fully engaging the clutch when I let off of the pedal OR my clutch was bad.
After multple attempts at bleeding and troubleshooting everything that I could think of, I dropped the trans. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary other that the clutch looked like it had been SLIGHTLY hot. I've seen a lot worse! I read online where the factory clutches had gone out at low miles before and that (in some people's opinion) they just weren't that good. I ordered a new Spec clutch, flywheel, TOB, pilot bearing, bellhousing and master cylinder. I figured I might as well make it bulletproof while I'm spending money. lol
After installing everything, I had the same results. The only thing that I hadn't changed was the braided line and plastic line that comes from the master to the TOB. I called on a couple of guys from the forum that are using that same drivetrain from Cleaveland that I am just to compare lines and make sure that they are hooked up correctly because I was desperate to find ANYTHING that could be my problem at this point.
NOW HERE'S WHAT YOU WANT TO READ!
I had bumped the starter early on in this process without the hydraulic line hooked up so that I could make sure that the clutch had clamping force. The car lunged forward and I let off quickly. This satisfied me that I had a TOB problem. AFTER messing with this thing forever I finally got irritated and tried to start it in gear again. IT STARTED IN GEAR without the TOB hooked to the master and made the same noise that it did back in December. Out of desperation, I raised the car up (on my four post) and had a buddy look under it to see if the yoke or the conversion driveshaft was turning (while I started it) so that I could eliminate the transmission and driveshaft. I know, I'm dangerous! They were both turning. I DON'T HAVE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM.
I dropped my Sure grip out of my 8 3/4 housing and realized that my axles were going through the first set of splines in the carrier and just barely catching the second set of splines in the spider gears. This allowed the car to move in the beginning but once the splines that were barely catching wore off, the axles were turning against the spiders and creating the illusion that my clutch was slipping and making the rubbing/grinding noise that I was hearing.
I put Wilwood disc brakes on my car and the spacers brought my axles out just enough to cause this whole problem. If you have the 69' spider gears that Cass "Doctor Diff" sells, you won't have this problem as they are splined the whole was across. The earlier gears are split right in the middle and this is the issue if you back off your axles very much at all.
Riddler.... from reading your posts, I'm not sure if this could be the same issue that you are having but look into it.
I feel like a Dumb *** and you old school Mopar guys probably know all about this issue but I just experienced it for the first time and if I can pass this along and help someone else out.... that's what hot rodding is all about!!
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Dragger40
POZEST!
Mine dosent go into gear very easy when it is sitting still but it does shift easier when it is rolling. If it's not going into gear at all..... who knows.
I'm sure you already pulled the shifter to see if everything looked good. I do know that my retrofit TR6060 shifter had to be shimed because it was in a bind when it was tightened all the way down. I'm sure the t56 won't have that issue because it was made to have a top load shifter to begin with.
I should've read your post more thoroughly. I just had my problem fresh on my mind and didn't catch the issue of yours not going into gear at all. Sorry
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Well we found the issue. Took the trans out and sent it to the trans shop. Had 2 small issues. The shift solenoid was dead and was replaced as well as a plastic bushing for the shifter ball to fall into was missing.
With these replaced the trans actually shifts now. Just need to get it back into the car and try it out.
Riddler
With these replaced the trans actually shifts now. Just need to get it back into the car and try it out.
Riddler
Dragger40
POZEST!
Awesome. Glad you figured that one out. You expect new stuff to work like NEW STUFF! Not always the case.
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Dragger40
POZEST!
Looks like I keep messing up and you get to keep correcting me. I could've swore I read that it was a new trans.
Once again.... I guess I should pay more attention or just quit replying to stuff that I obviously know nothing about.
Last edited:
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
Had the same thing happen to me last summer! Drive shaft spinning... car not moving
Riddler
Project EH-Body
No please don't stop posting. Your posts have helped others. I went and checked the rear axle but I'm getting good engagement. My issue was lack of being able to get the transmission into any gear with engine on or off.
Hopefully everything gets fixed up good now and I can drive it.
Riddler
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Still having problems. I’m being told it’s a bad throw out bearing. With the car off it works and releases the clutch. Once there’s load on the throw out bearing, it won’t push in.
What throw out bearings are you all using? This was a stock viper part.
Thanks,
Riddler
What throw out bearings are you all using? This was a stock viper part.
Thanks,
Riddler
have you thought about one from American powertrain? Although this is a complete kit, you can buy the throw out bearing all by itself for $350.
HYDRAMAX Hydraulic Clutch Actuator System for Mopar with GM/Mopar Magnum 6-Speed and Floor Mounted Pedals
HYDRAMAX Hydraulic Clutch Actuator System for Mopar with GM/Mopar Magnum 6-Speed and Floor Mounted Pedals
I'd just use another Viper throw out bearing. Unfortunately with quality control the way it is bad parts happen. Might be worth asking on a Viper forum?
$350 for a throw out bearing is insane. The stock Viper part is like $100. I don't know what American Powertrain made that set up out of, but $700 is completely nuts. You can do the whole system with a $100 viper throwout bearing and a $100 Wilwood master cylinder kit.
I agree. It is outrageous. I don't know where they come up with these prices?
It's an aftermarket throw out bearing too, that's been adapted for use with a T56. It's the same throw out as what they sell for the 833's. The price is outrageous, but the bigger concern for me is that you're not using a throw out bearing designed for use with that transmission. The Viper throw out bearings work, and were designed for that transmission. This application will take a spacer with a Viper throwout, but that's not a big deal. So for me I'd rather use a Viper throw out anyway, the question then is whether or not to just use a reproduction one (I bought one from Dorman), or to find an aftermarket one specific for a Viper T56.
Riddler
Project EH-Body
I used one a found on eBay. I’m not entirely convinced it a TOB problem but it’s the next step.
I don’t really want to spend $350 for a TOB when I can get a viper one for under $100.
I was hoping to get a poll of what people are using. Looks to be the viper unit.
Riddler
I don’t really want to spend $350 for a TOB when I can get a viper one for under $100.
I was hoping to get a poll of what people are using. Looks to be the viper unit.
Riddler
Riddler
Project EH-Body
Guess I’m having nothing but issues. Clutch disc is trashed, TOB fried and pressure plate looks to be missing pieces.
Can’t decide if I’m going to go ACT again or something else.
Riddler
Can’t decide if I’m going to go ACT again or something else.
Riddler
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