T-56 Transmission Install Thread

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I'd run out of master cylinder stroke if I do that. Right now I am using the complete stroke of the master cylinder and not getting enough slave travel to release the clutch. I just found the number I need for my pressure plate release, so I'm curious if anyone has measured throwout bearing travel with a single pedal press. I realize these throwouts have lots of travel (I've heard up to 1.5"), but I'm pretty sure you can't get that with a single press of the pedal due to master cylinder size. With the master I have (7/8" bore with 1" stroke), I might get 1/2"-3/4" of slave travel with a full stroke, but I'm not sure if that's what it's supposed to be or not. I need 0.3-0.4" of travel to release my clutch according to the manufacturer. The first half of my pedal is taking up the gap between the TOB and the PP fingers, the second half is pressing the fingers down, but just not quite enough to fully release the clutch.
 
Also, this may or may not have an effect from what I've read, but I do have a three finger Borg and Beck style pressure plate as opposed to the diaphragm style. I've read varying opinions that one style requires more travel than the other, but it seemed like the difference was fairly insignificant (0.1" or less kind of numbers).

Also, when I cleaned out the master I don't think I had burnt fluid. The black that I was seeing looked more like particulate than part of the fluid itself. Almost like it was eating a seal and it was little rubber bits or something. Wiped it all out and have refilled it with fresh stuff. Will probably drop the trans again Friday and try to measure everything up and mess with the slave. Have a dyno day Saturday I'd really like to take the car to, so it will be an interesting evening after work trying to get the trans out and back in. Only took a few hours last time though, so think I can probably get it done before it's pitch black outside.
 
Man I cant help ya with anymore suggestions. My thinking is the master is capable of a certain amount and if it doesn't start ITS stroke with TOB against the fingers your handicapping it so to speak. Your TOB spring is broke or you just need more spacer.
 
Yeah, I think that's where I ended up as well in my reasoning. I could have sworn the thing worked fine when I first swapped it, but maybe I was overstroking something initially and it just started giving out. The black stuff in the fluid makes me think something was up. I'll try to take a better look when I drop it Friday. I plan to try to collapse everything and measure it up to see what I'm really supposed to need for spacing and if it's operating correctly with each pedal push.

Just so I'm clear, my interpretation of a "self adjusting" slave cylinder would be if I take it out of the car (but leave it hooked up to the master) and collapse it all the way then pump the pedal, each time I pump it, the slave should extend and stay where it is even when the pedal is released? So it would look like it's pumping up with each pedal hit until it reaches its ultimate limit of travel.
 
Yes, but with it removed it will be extended because of the spring. You can pull the TOB and collar off and remove the spring.
 
Right, I plan to collapse it all the way before any pedal work to see what it does. That spring seems to have some funny business going on in that it does not fully push my slave forward. Looking in the bellhousing you can see that the slave extends when the pedal is pushed and the spring extends with it. I think once I got fluid in the system the spring doesn't have enough force to "vacuum" the fluid from the master over the drag of the seals.

I'm tempted to order a new one from the parts store just to see if it acts the same as mine and return it when I'm done...
 
Well, took it apart again yesterday and checked things out. Measured it up and it looks like the 1/2" spacer should be all I need. Have a little over 1/8" of compression left in the slave at fully collapsed height, so didn't put the extra spacer in. Bled it real good while it was out and checked my pressure plate fingers. As it turns out, it looks like one of them does sit lower than the others, so I think I might be in the market for a new clutch. I think that one finger being off is keeping the plate from fully releasing. Pedal feel is better after the bleed too, so I think that was compounding the issue.
 
I have always had a diaphragm PP. I agree that if it gets cocked that would play havoc on wear, bleeding, apply and release. If it were a mechanical fork/TOB setup the bad finger would probably never be an issue and go un-noticed.
 
Okay, so for an update on my trials and tribulations I finally have an answer. I just bit the bullet and ordered a new clutch as I figured that was going to be the easiest answer in the long run. Took the old pressure plate out and found out one of the three fingers (Borg and Beck style) had a crack in it. Don't know how/when it happened, but that was keeping the plate from fully releasing. Wondering if maybe I over-stroked it at some point. I went ahead and got a diaphragm style this time around and holy crap, the pedal is completely different. The first time I hit the clutch I thought I was out of fluid it was so light. Pumped it a few times and it never changed so I figured that's just the difference between the styles. Found out a working clutch also makes it easier to get off the line, lol.
 
Hi guys I've got a 5.7 hemi and recently purchased a 2010 tr6060 out of an 2010 gt500 as it was to cheap to turn down, so bell housing and clutch combos i seem to be not finding any.

Any help appriciated..
 
Check the spline count, it might be 10 spline. Im also unsure if the bellhousing to trans pattern is the same either.
 
Thought I would add what I found with my TR6060 from a '10 Challenger. I plan on using the stock Slave cylinder/throwout bearing. Of course, Chrysler puts their own piece in, with a quick disconnect fitting. That fitting is specific to Chrysler, and does not work with the GM style that you can get with a Mcleod clutch line.

So to get the slave connected to Wilwood master cylinder, I removed the aluminum quick disconnect. This leaves the 6mm brake hose with a 12mmX1.0 tube nut. Found a union at Parts Plus, leaving me with a female 12mmX1.0. Got a Male fitting from anplumbing.com that is 12mmX1.0 to male AN-4. Once trans is in, I can measure the length hose with AN-4 on each end.

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Scampin around said:
So what's the best fitting t56 for a 5.7 hemi 68 dart?
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Long story short, from a physical perspective, they all pretty much fit the same. I think it more comes down to what you want to interface with it. You can get a bellhousing for any of them (Ford, Chevy, Viper, etc.) I believe. The output yoke will vary from model to model, so you might have some funny u-joints depending on what you get. Internally the Viper ones are stronger as well, though most of that boils down to the input shaft as I understand it. I believe they all have the same shifter mounting location (where the shifter actually interfaces with the transmission shifting mechanism), but where the stick comes out varies from model to model. I'm not sure any of the factory ones work that well though. I bought an aftermarket one designed for a Ford that just has a two bolt stub shaft so I could mount whatever handle I wanted in case I needed to move it around.
 
Riddler said:
Wish I could update the first post but the Edit button is MIA.

Quicktime Bellhousing for:

Big Block to Viper T56 is #RM-8073
Big Block to Chevy LS1 T56 is #RM-6077
5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 to Viper T56 is # RM-8077
5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 to Chevy LS1 T56 is # RM-8078
Smallblock to Viper T56 is # RM-8074
Smallblock to Chevy T56 is # RM-6076

More info...

Small Block Mopar (LA) and 3G HEMI is Quick Time P/N RM8074. The bell has a 6.697” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth) Uses the standard 2-Bolt starter from Mopar. 130 tooth fly wheel must be used.

Big Block Mopar (B & RB) is Quick Time P/N RM8073. The bell has a 6.697” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth) Uses the standard 2-Bolt starter from Mopar. 130 tooth fly wheel must be used.

3G HEMI ONLY – 08/09 Challengers - Quick Time P/N 8077. The bell has a 7.300” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth. Use stock 3G HEMI starter that is located on the passenger side of the vehicle. Must use the original flywheel and clutch assembly (65 #’s in weight – all cast iron). This bell housing is NOT recommended for the retrofitting into older muscle cars. Current year use only

I'll do my best to get all the info added to the first post.

Riddler
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Does the mustang T56 fit the bb 440
 
wbk said:
Does the mustang T56 fit the bb 440
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I think some of the Ford ones are mechanical clutch (cable maybe?), so you might be careful what you pick up. It's not that those can't work, but I think they can be a little trickier than a hydraulic. Should be able to get a bellhousing either way though. I think you can go to Quicktime and look through their lists.
 
anyone using a ls1 t56? looking to pick up one tomorrow for 600 bucks. pro and cons please thanks...
 
Hi, Could someone give me some help..Going to fit T-56 Magnum behind Mopar big block..Do I need to buy GM or Ford T-56 magnum and what bellhousing should I buy? Every shop seems to give me different answer so figured out maybe someone here knows better.. :/
 
lancer273cid said:
Hi, Could someone give me some help..Going to fit T-56 Magnum behind Mopar big block..Do I need to buy GM or Ford T-56 magnum and what bellhousing should I buy? Every shop seems to give me different answer so figured out maybe someone here knows better.. :/
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Don't know which model would be easiest, but I would look at a Quicktime bellhousing either way. They sell just about bellhousing to connect any transmission to any engine. I know there was a build here detailing putting a T56 Magnum in a Dart, but can't remember where it was. I was thinking it was in the transmission section.
 
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