Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

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Again, the RULE say they MUST run a diaphragm PP. two totally different situations.

You have a funny way about you Grant. At least be honest and up front about what the rules are and how it works.

I don't know of a single example of someone, who CAN use an adjustable PP and sintered iron disc going away from that to a diaphragm PP. That may be the case, but I doubt it. There is zero to gain and way too much to loose.

This is why I have issues telling people to use your stuff. Be honest about why things are the way they are. The Coyote people (the cats who make the rules) are dead set against opening up the clutch rules to allow anything other than the diaphragm PP. I have my thoughts on why that is, but some have told me the company line is they want the cars as close to showroom as possible.

Ok. Whatever.

At any rate, anymore it's easier to tell people to buy the CT and let them bandaid a junk clutch than try to educate them about proper clutch load and application.

Two different worlds.

My post was in response to your...

"I don't know anyone running a rag disc any more. You see, you haven't learned enough yet to understand why an adjustable PP and sintered iron disc is a better way of doing it."

I was pointing out that some people do still run rag discs and are competitive. I used the Coyote class as an example because there is no other class out there where the cars are all basically the same and they all have exactly the same power to work with. All have the same engines, same weight, same tune, same transmissions, same fuel. As far as winning races at their power level, either organic or sintered iron can get the job done.

As for comparing this diaphragm class to other classes that do allow adjustable clutches, I use the old 1320/mph=ET formula to compare relative efficiency. If you know of a better rule of thumb to compare relative efficiency, please let me know. I basically compare how much above or below the formula's prediction the car might be running for a given power/weight ratio. The competitive Coyote car ET is typically within a tenth + or - of the formula. Apply the formula to NHRA class records for cars running around the same 130mph power/weight ratio, their state of the art clutches fare about the same.

Grant
 
Not hardly. Not even close. The issue is you have a fundamentally basic understanding of clutches. And even less of an understanding of the "rules" most of these guys run under.

Again, I've said it over and over...using a 30 flywheel and a non adjustable PP is just goofy if you don't have to. Then using a device to slip the clutch (as opposed to controlling the application of it) to control the abusive clutch is silly.

The real reason guys use them is because they can go online, buy a $375.00 clutch and flywheel and then add a CT and get it to not kill parts.

The other option is 2k or a bit more for a lightweight FW (which helps in virtually every application) and an adjustable clutch.

It's like stepping over donuts to pick up dog turds.

Now I need to get out the most current rule book I have and take a quick read.
:bs_flag::rolleyes:...
 
Installed my CT today.
D0E843D1-7FA3-43F7-A3C1-E5A2D18ED50F.jpeg
77D6DC58-55B3-4A35-9785-8F00D64BC7F2.jpeg
22E2934B-7B5E-49E2-918D-B23F85F8DC2F.jpeg
D5B04894-8057-4241-90B1-6138F326B3BF.jpeg
 
No . I am just completing the interior.
I have yet to drive this car.
The Mcleod clutch requires a 500 mile break in before any hard driving.
 
No . I am just completing the interior.
I have yet to drive this car.
The Mcleod clutch requires a 500 mile break in before any hard driving.
That's funny.. I can't tell you how many things that I was supposed to break in with 500 miles lol let's start with my engine that guy probably 30 miles before I took it to the Dragstrip. Then there was my rear end that got probably 0 miles before it went to the dragstrip LOL I've never heard of breaking in a clutch but okay whatever the manufacturer says to cover their ***... By the time you get 500 miles on it it'll be out of warranty LOL..
I strongly suggest you do it makes you feel comfortable though... Was I not supposed to drag race my 4-speed today after I rebuilt it?...
 
Did you notice that I used 69 flasher switches for my fuel pump and launch rev limiter ?
 
It will take 500 miles to sort out all the things I fucked up ! Lol

Did you notice the 8 Track ? Installed that today !
 
My post was in response to your...

"I don't know anyone running a rag disc any more. You see, you haven't learned enough yet to understand why an adjustable PP and sintered iron disc is a better way of doing it."

I was pointing out that some people do still run rag discs and are competitive. I used the Coyote class as an example because there is no other class out there where the cars are all basically the same and they all have exactly the same power to work with. All have the same engines, same weight, same tune, same transmissions, same fuel. As far as winning races at their power level, either organic or sintered iron can get the job done.

As for comparing this diaphragm class to other classes that do allow adjustable clutches, I use the old 1320/mph=ET formula to compare relative efficiency. If you know of a better rule of thumb to compare relative efficiency, please let me know. I basically compare how much above or below the formula's prediction the car might be running for a given power/weight ratio. The competitive Coyote car ET is typically within a tenth + or - of the formula. Apply the formula to NHRA class records for cars running around the same 130mph power/weight ratio, their state of the art clutches fare about the same.

Grant


I'm sure there are people running rag discs. I have no doubt. Some people still think the earth is flat.i can't fix them either.

What's interesting is a thread in the suspension or chassis forum. A guy broke his 8.75 with his parts breaking clutch and was asking about switching to a D or S60.

Now, I have ZERO issues with wanting to upgrade the rear axle. None. BUT (and this is a HUGE BUT) the OP didn't actually FIX the ISSUE and that issue is his junk, outdated, obsolete clutch. He is applying a band aid where he needs an amputation.

If you go find the thread, I think I made the case for BOTH an adjustable clutch and the CT. I think I laid it out as clear as reasonably possible without a Biblical length response.

Did the OP upgrade his axle? I think so. Is he going to do something about his junky clutch? I doubt it.

It's human nature to take the easy way out, rather than do two things to fix an issue. If the axle survives, than in his mind, it was a success.

The reality is, he gave up way more than he needed to by not addressing his clutch issue. And I think Jpar can address that. He has said in what little time he's had with his CT he can tell how much more control over applying the clutch he has. And that's a BIG deal.

Of course, you had guys in that thread who haven't used a clutch since 1981 telling him to swap out the axle. Like I said, I'm all for it. Just do both. Address the weaker rear axle and the junk, parts eating, miserable to drive clutch.

You should go find the thread and read it.
 
That's funny.. I can't tell you how many things that I was supposed to break in with 500 miles lol let's start with my engine that guy probably 30 miles before I took it to the Dragstrip. Then there was my rear end that got probably 0 miles before it went to the dragstrip LOL I've never heard of breaking in a clutch but okay whatever the manufacturer says to cover their ***... By the time you get 500 miles on it it'll be out of warranty LOL..
I strongly suggest you do it makes you feel comfortable though... Was I not supposed to drag race my 4-speed today after I rebuilt it?...


The ONLY time I break in a clutch is when running a sintered iron disc. There is a reason for it.

The disc starts to wear from the outside edge in to the center. It takes 6-8 passes to get the disc to where the disc is being used from the outer edge to the center.

If you are not careful, you'll drive right through the clutch on the burn out. Then you have to pull the clutch, clean up the FW and pressure ring and glass bead the disc and start over.

BTDT.

Other than that, there is no clutch break in.
 
BTW...which part is BS?

Just need clarification.

TIA
That's an easy one..
I start a thread on the clutch Tamer and go about the whole entire process from the idea to ordering it to receiving it to installing it andand using it and giving my opinion on how it's working so far....
Instead of starting your own thread on the style of clutch you use and the idea behind it and where to get it and how much it cost and how to install a with pictures and how to adjust it with pictures and test driving it and showing your results?..
Instead we have my thread that while going through the process dealing with the back-and-forth arguments whether it's good or not and then ultimately having a big conjumbled thread for someone to have to go through to get to the pertinent information...
Clear enough?...
 
That's an easy one..
I start a thread on the clutch Tamer and go about the whole entire process from the idea to ordering it to receiving it to installing it andand using it and giving my opinion on how it's working so far....
Instead of starting your own thread on the style of clutch you use and the idea behind it and where to get it and how much it cost and how to install a with pictures and how to adjust it with pictures and test driving it and showing your results?..
Instead we have my thread that while going through the process dealing with the back-and-forth arguments whether it's good or not and then ultimately having a big conjumbled thread for someone to have to go through to get to the pertinent information...
Clear enough?...


Yup. I get it. You dont like what I posted so it's BS. Typical.
 
I'm sure there are people running rag discs. I have no doubt. Some people still think the earth is flat.i can't fix them either.

What's interesting is a thread in the suspension or chassis forum. A guy broke his 8.75 with his parts breaking clutch and was asking about switching to a D or S60.

Now, I have ZERO issues with wanting to upgrade the rear axle. None. BUT (and this is a HUGE BUT) the OP didn't actually FIX the ISSUE and that issue is his junk, outdated, obsolete clutch. He is applying a band aid where he needs an amputation.

If you go find the thread, I think I made the case for BOTH an adjustable clutch and the CT. I think I laid it out as clear as reasonably possible without a Biblical length response.

Did the OP upgrade his axle? I think so. Is he going to do something about his junky clutch? I doubt it.

It's human nature to take the easy way out, rather than do two things to fix an issue. If the axle survives, than in his mind, it was a success.

The reality is, he gave up way more than he needed to by not addressing his clutch issue. And I think Jpar can address that. He has said in what little time he's had with his CT he can tell how much more control over applying the clutch he has. And that's a BIG deal.

Of course, you had guys in that thread who haven't used a clutch since 1981 telling him to swap out the axle. Like I said, I'm all for it. Just do both. Address the weaker rear axle and the junk, parts eating, miserable to drive clutch.

You should go find the thread and read it.

I pretty much agree with everything you said above, except I would have been for keeping the 8-3/4. That's just me though, I usually prefer a lighter part if the lighter part can get the job done.

Grant
 
I pretty much agree with everything you said above, except I would have been for keeping the 8-3/4. That's just me though, I usually prefer a lighter part if the lighter part can get the job done.

Grant


LOL. That's what I said. If he bought a clutch or a CT, he could have fixed the 8.75 and it would have lived.

I don't think that's what he wanted to hear. Did you go read the thread?
 
I pretty much agree with everything you said above, except I would have been for keeping the 8-3/4. That's just me though, I usually prefer a lighter part if the lighter part can get the job done.

Grant

I should add that my personal car has 28spline axles in a chev 10 bolt, also a 2-1/2"x.065" driveshaft. I usually don't even bother to tell anyone though, usually sets off BS detectors when they find out it's been 5.73 w/ a 1.30 60' way back in 2011 when it had 700whp. Even more power now, still dead hooking radials with the same axles and driveshaft.

Grant
 
Yup. I get it. You dont like what I posted so it's BS. Typical.
I swear I don't know if it's you that gets it from 318 will not run or he gets it from you but I said to him about five times in the past 4 days stop twisting the conversation to suit your discussion!!!..
I didn't say your way was right or wrong what I was saying was why can't you start your own thread on the right way to do it according to you instead of arguing on my thread??...
Officially I like what you posted but can it be on your own thread?... it's like you almost don't have an idea where to start...?..
LOL. That's what I said. If he bought a clutch or a CT, he could have fixed the 8.75 and it would have lived.

I don't think that's what he wanted to hear. Did you go read the thread?
I have already said that and you can quote me somewhere here in this thread that if I would have had this clutch Tamer years ago I would have never have broke my 8 and 3/4..... But that does not suit your discussion... That does not twist things to make it seem like you're right...
there's other products I've mentioned as well that I would have had had I known about them a long time ago also would have never bought the oil pan that I had had I known... I paid way too much yesterday for a part that I should have paid 1/3 for it but did I know ?..
Please I hope the next time I have a life I pop out knowing everything...
 
I should add that my personal car has 28spline axles in a chev 10 bolt, also a 2-1/2"x.065" driveshaft. I usually don't even bother to tell anyone though, usually sets off BS detectors when they find out it's been 5.73 w/ a 1.30 60' way back in 2011 when it had 700whp. Even more power now, still dead hooking radials with the same axles and driveshaft.

Grant
And don't forget the clutch tamer!...
 
I did un-hook the 'tamer back in 2013 for a back-to-back without/with comparison at the track. This was the instant result...

twistedshaft.jpg


Had my kid come get me, went home and made another identical .065" shaft. Was back to the track by 4am to install the new shaft (85mi from home), then drove the car home. That same identical replacement shaft is still in the car, countless ClutchTamer and Hitmaster test hits later. The system on the car now doesn't even have a nitrous jet, the ported small body solenoid is now the jet. Around 800+ with the juice flowing. I do keep the parts on hand to make an .083" shaft when the time comes, but that won't happen 'till this .065" shaft fails.

Grant
 
@weedburner
Remind me what to do with the ball bearings... are these just so I can feel the full rotations and keep track of how many turns I adjust it ?
 
@weedburner
Remind me what to do with the ball bearings... are these just so I can feel the full rotations and keep track of how many turns I adjust it ?
Yes, I asked him about this as well. There's a couple extra in the kit in case you lose them and I almost did one LOL..
I do think I'm going to make a little white slash on the knob so I can visually see it as well...
 
That's why there's a little Groove in the threaded shaft so does ball bearings niche in there and you can feel where you're at..
 
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