Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

-
68Dart500 I think the Ram Powergrip hd is one of the best performance clutches out there. I had to piece my together to, they only showed a part number for an 11 inch clutch in the 1 3/16 18 spline input that my Jerico has. but they listed a 900 series 10.5 disc separately and I had the flywheel and diaphragm pressure plate in my spare parts bin. If it was up to my son it would not come out. It took me awhile to figure out the soft-loc but once I did it's been very hard to go to another clutch in this car, I understand it, and works perfect with the Jerico DR-4 trans. I don't mind driving it on the street and it saves me and my son from tickets.
 
I'm in WI on the western border. But I go to Rock Falls in Eau Claire WI or BIR in Brainerd MN

You might know my brother Shawn Baird and his Blue 68 Firebird... runs low 11s and looks pure stock.
Or Dan Boyce with his black 69 Barracuda Fastback that runs 10.90s
And Flood in his red 70 Corvette hitting mid 9s looking stock...
 
68Dart500 I think the Ram Powergrip hd is one of the best performance clutches out there. I had to piece my together to, they only showed a part number for an 11 inch clutch in the 1 3/16 18 spline input that my Jerico has. but they listed a 900 series 10.5 disc separately and I had the flywheel and diaphragm pressure plate in my spare parts bin. If it was up to my son it would not come out. It took me awhile to figure out the soft-loc but once I did it's been very hard to go to another clutch in this car, I understand it, and works perfect with the Jerico DR-4 trans. I don't mind driving it on the street and it saves me and my son from tickets.
Do you have any link to that clutch disc or part number?
 
Clutch Discs See if this works. It's the Ram 900 series disc. 10.5 1-23 spline #903
11.0 1-23 spline #904
10.5 1 3/16 18 spline #907
11.0 1 3/16 18 spline # 908
Yes that sent me right over there. Thank you. Good Lord another $300 LOL...
I do have this here Critter that Act pressure plate came with. I'm pretty sure it was what took out the 8 and 3/4 LOL..
It sounded really cool like it made a metallic "shing" sound :thumbsup: kind of like the partial ring of a bell. I already like the clicking Action Sound of the V gate shifter as I go through the gears...
IMG_20190830_165329.jpg
 
^^^yes that thing was like a light switch LOL. I'm pretty sure it's not what I need with this clutch tamer....
 
My feeling is, for Jpars goal of running in the 11’s with a streetable combo, it might be cheaper and easier(as well as being easier on the car) to figure out how to get it done without the monster hole shot.
My point was to show you don’t need a killer launch to run in the 11’s with a docile streetable combo.

But I’m happy to sit back and watch it play out.

x2.
 
But its no fun to run fast if you cant get your wheels in the air like Pittsburgracer ! Lol
 
But its no fun to run fast if you cant get your wheels in the air like Pittsburgracer ! Lol
I remember being at my track and looking over to the left and seeing this Camaro do this big huge wheelie...(and thought to myself cool!!) I grabbed second never seen him again....
 
I remember being at my track and looking over to the left and seeing this Camaro do this big huge wheelie...(and thought to myself cool!!) I grabbed second never seen him again....

He must've broke something if you didn't see him again.
 
I don’t have anything to contribute but I have always liked stick shift cars. It’s easy to go fast in an auto!

 
I don’t have anything to contribute but I have always liked stick shift cars. It’s easy to go fast in an auto!




That's the video I referenced many posts ago. All you have to do is watch the first pass. Listen to the tires. The guy used a junk clutch, beat the tire and the car to death and it was still quicker than a PG.

He'd have gone even quicker and faster and had consistency to rival a PG if (and here is the rub of this entire idiotic thread) IF he actually bought a clutch and learned to tune it.

At the least he should have used a clutch tamer to help the junk clutch. When you hear tires squealing and barking like that down the track your clutch tune up is wrong. The clutch is wrong.

No wonder there isn't any consistency. There can't be.
 
I don’t have anything to contribute but I have always liked stick shift cars. It’s easy to go fast in an auto!



In the NMRA Coyote class, the engines are factory sealed by Ford, and all cars have the exact same tune in the ECU (they flash them in the lanes). You have the choice between 4spd manual with a diaphragm style clutch or a C4 automatic. Both run at 3100lb on a .400 tree. You can run a 'tamer with the manual/diaphragm, or you can do pretty much anything you want to the C4/converter including a brake. There are no competitive automatic cars in the class, every event so far this year was won by a manual car using a 'tamer.

Grant
 
Glad you mentioned the flywheel. Even the soft lock clutch will have issues with heavy flywheel weight. It's a handicap no matter what you do. You can only tune around all that rotational inertia so much.

For those following this is why you don't need a heavy flywheel. Even in a mostly street car. You just don't need all that weight swinging around.

SL or CT or whatever else you do, if you have more than 15 pounds of FW weight you are hurting yourself.

In drag racing, flywheel weight is only a handicap when you are launching below the redline and/or wasting stored energy in a burst of wheelspin after the shifts. The energy you put into a flywheel can basically be recovered, as long as you have an efficient process.

Power into a flywheel basically equals power out. When you don't have an efficient process for recovering that energy, a lighter flywheel helps by reducing losses. The energy loss is usually due to wheelspin, a lighter flywheel's advantage is that less energy gets spent on that wheelspin. When there is no wheelspin, a lighter flywheel loses that advantage in a drag race setting.

CT isn't a clutch, it's only a way to control a clutch. It can be used on sintered iron as well.
 
In drag racing, flywheel weight is only a handicap when you are launching below the redline and/or wasting stored energy in a burst of wheelspin after the shifts. The energy you put into a flywheel can basically be recovered, as long as you have an efficient process.

Power into a flywheel basically equals power out. When you don't have an efficient process for recovering that energy, a lighter flywheel helps by reducing losses. The energy loss is usually due to wheelspin, a lighter flywheel's advantage is that less energy gets spent on that wheelspin. When there is no wheelspin, a lighter flywheel loses it's advantage.

CT isn't a clutch, it's only a way to control a clutch. It can be used on sintered iron as well.



Uh no, but I'm sick of dealing with this. Keep telling people things that aren't factual. It's one reason why I try and dissuade people from the CT unless it's their only option.
 
Uh no, but I'm sick of dealing with this. Keep telling people things that aren't factual. It's one reason why I try and dissuade people from the CT unless it's their only option.

In your world a lighter flywheel is usually better, i'm saying a lighter flywheel isn't always better. Please let me know what part of my post isn't factual.

Grant
 
In your world a lighter flywheel is usually better, i'm saying a lighter flywheel isn't always better. Please let me know what part of my post isn't factual.

Grant


In what world is more FW weight better? I damn sure isn't a race car. Maybe a semi truck. Maybe a 5000 pound, low HP car that never sees anything above 3500 RPM. Maybe.

There isn't one, not ONE competent clutch guy, transmission guy, chassis guy, tire guy, shock guy or just general knowledge guy who will tell you adding rotational inertia is a good thing. It breaks parts. It's even harder to manage, regardless of method you chose to do it.

Quite frankly, it's ******* STUPID to tell guys who are chassis and tire limited to add FW weight. You either deal with it by taking clutch out of it, or changing the timer on the CT.

Other than you, I can think of no one I know of who says add FW weight. Not one. To even argue the point is ridiculous. I would mention the Pro Stock and Comp guys, but then I'd hear the "I'm not racing Pro Stock" nonsense I always hear. The clutch I run today WAS Pro Stock in the 1980's. This isn't new. So I'll say I don't know a single, solitary guy running Stock or Super Stock with sticks who use heavy flywheel. Not one. Not a single one. Those guys can run what they want. The exception is those classes (some of which you have outlined above) who by rules have to run a clutch that isn't adjustable. That's it.


I'll tell you Grant, I'd send people your way if you didn't say crazy crap like this. I know there are guys out there, like Jpar who either don't want to deal with an adjustable clutch, or guys who can't afford one, and I'd send them you way. But you have issues like FW weight I just can't get around. And, telling people you have to adjust the clutch for the street and the track. You don't. I didn't have an adjustable pressure plate for years. I never ran over 1000 pounds of base load (most of the time I was at between 600-700), didn't use counter weight and left at 7-7500 with 14x32 tires and on,y drove through the clutch once. And that was my bad in a burn out.

We have to stop, as a group telling people dumb things. I've been a stick guy since I was a kid. There aren't many left, just because of dumb advice and wrong headed thinking. Junk clutches kill parts. Junk clutches with heavy flyweels kills parts faster and have slower time slips.

Hopefully, for the open minded stick guys out there, they can learn something from this thread. Here what they SHOULD learn.

You can be competitive with a stick.
A junk clutch is a junk clutch.
Flywheel weight is bad.
You need to control your clutch lock up.
If you aren't willing to learn how to tune a clutch, or can't afford a good one, then the Clutch Tamer is about the only option you have, other than going slow, beating the car to death and killing parts.
There is zero logic in using a sintered iron disc and a Clutch Tamer. If you are going to use a sintered iron disc, just pay the extra money for the adjustable pressure plate.
You should be using an aluminum flywheel either way.
 
In the NMRA Coyote class, the engines are factory sealed by Ford, and all cars have the exact same tune in the ECU (they flash them in the lanes). You have the choice between 4spd manual with a diaphragm style clutch or a C4 automatic. Both run at 3100lb on a .400 tree. You can run a 'tamer with the manual/diaphragm, or you can do pretty much anything you want to the C4/converter including a brake. There are no competitive automatic cars in the class, every event so far this year was won by a manual car using a 'tamer.

Grant
My only question is mine in the mail yet?! LOL
Like I was saying I'm not in a big hurry but all this talk definitely is getting me jacked up to try it...
 
Last edited:
In your world a lighter flywheel is usually better, i'm saying a lighter flywheel isn't always better. Please let me know what part of my post isn't factual.

Grant
I can only imagine that you're answering to yr.. if you push on his picture it gives you the option to ignore him. He doesn't have a car or do anyting. He definitely won't be buying the product and people are starting to catch on now that he's just a troublemaker. I recommend just letting him have a one-sided fight with himself.
 
I can only imagine that you're answering to yr.. if you push on his picture it gives you the option to ignore him. He doesn't have a car or do anyting. He definitely won't be buying the product and people are starting to catch on now that he's just a troublemaker. I recommend just letting him have a one-sided fight with himself.


Wrong again fool. What I did was explain WHY I say what I say about flywheel weight.

What I don't understand is your obsessive ignorance of simple things. Such as, you've never used a clutch tamer, or a sintered iron clutch, yet you act like the expert.

You are just another mouth. One of the multitude that makes me glad I don't build engines for a living any more, and why I don't go to the track.
In fact, I would have went to the track yesterday to meet Skrews. I didn't because, unknown to me, Renegade is only running 1/8th mile and Skrews wasn't going to come here to run that. So I didn't go.

But I would have. To meet a guy with some class and common sense.

I feel bad for you Jpar. You are too stupid to get out of your own way. And too ignorant to admit it.
 
I think I'm going to start by setting my 2-Step at 3500. I reckon if I'm not going to lose too much RPM on the hit that'll be well into the start of my torque band. I'm already assuming I'm going to be way higher than this in the end, but to start getting used to it I'd like to ease into it...
 
Ok, YOU know he has you on ignore and your spouting off / swearing and now ranting to us??? If I give advice and it's not used , I just carry on with my life. Some people need to "live and learn" on their own...sometimes the hard way. Move on to another thread. @yellow rose
 
-
Back
Top