Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

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I don't know if I can let him take all that fun away from me! Kind of right now the part I'm looking forward too...
 
Also I really like how it's tight underneath the dash and I'm sure it's almost out of sight if not totally...
 
mbaird, On my pedal bracket I had to have the offset tord the face of the pedal so it would not come in contact with the clutch rod that goes through the floor. Mine looked like yours when it came and I had to cut it off and turn it around and weld it back on so the two pinch bolts were on the back side of the pedal. Grant if you are still watching this post, for the A body Mopars the picture of my pedal bracket is what is needed to make your setup work.
 
I'm assuming the 66 maybe a little different from a 67 and up? I mean what I see under their does look the same for the most part though...
 
j par said:
Totally awesome stuff! I knew you didn't have to cut your dash apart and all that craziness.
Now that you've cleared up the internet hearsay armchair Boogeyman stories about impossible installation....
I guess my biggest question at this point is what was your experience with the product?
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On SOME cars you have to cut the dash. Jesus Christ you blow everything out of proportion.
 
j par for the most part the two body styles are pretty close from the firewall back, the pedals are just routed different. The clutch tamer work as advertised, my 60' stayed in the 1.50's but the car slowed going down the track and mile an hour dropped, which I say was from the heavier flywheel and clutch. But that is an argument I really don't want to get in too.
 
19DART66 said:
j par for the most part the two body styles are pretty close from the firewall back, the pedals are just routed different. The clutch tamer work as advertised, my 60' stayed in the 1.50's but the car slowed going down the track and mile an hour dropped, which I say was from the heavier flywheel and clutch. But that is an argument I really don't want to get in too.
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60 foots in 1. 50's ? You said stayed that way? As in that's how it was before? Or is that what it brought your 60 foot down to from a higher number?
I already know I probably don't have the correct clutch. What I do have is a 440 Source Billet Steel flywheel with ARP bolts and act Technologies pressure plate that was formerly paired with a six puck clutch disc. And now that was too harsh so I got a Hays clutch disc. Likely some kind of organic clutch it was like $109 for the disk. I'm sure the price would tell the quality which I don't know. It's been that way for the last few years, two at least...
 
YR is right on a lot of cars, special the Mustangs and newer cars you have to modify the dash. I am afraid I will have to do that to my Challenger. With the lack of aftermarket support for a decent clutch for the new Challengers it's going to be what it's going to be. Did I tell you the duel disc clutches in the new Challengers really suck and are a big waste of time and money. If someone would come out with a single disc clutch it would save the syncros in that Tremec TR6060. The duel disc like to stick and crunch the syncros, you have to pull the trans and grease the input shaft so the disc's will slide.
 
19DART66 said:
YR is right on a lot of cars, special the Mustangs and newer cars you have to modify the dash. I am afraid I will have to do that to my Challenger. With the lack of aftermarket support for a decent clutch for the new Challengers it's going to be what it's going to be. Did I tell you the duel disc clutches in the new Challengers really suck and are a big waste of time and money. If someone would come out with a single disc clutch it would save the syncros in that Tremec TR6060. The duel disc like to stick and crunch the syncros, you have to pull the trans and grease the input shaft so the disc's will slide.
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I'm living yr free these days and it was like taking a big poop...
I was hoping to keep this towards people who actually are going to use the product and have the product and are curious about the product and how we can help each other make it work better...
I hope he wasn't answering the question that I had asked you? Did your 60 foot time drop? If I was able to lose a half a second in my 60 foot I'd surely give up miles per hour for better ET? And that's another question did your ET improve? Which I assume that's what these are meant to help as well? also if for any reason you don't want to answer these questions like racer secrets that's fine I reckon....
 
j par the car generally 60 footed in the low 1.50s and once in a while a 1.48 or 1.49 on a well prep track, leaving with the 2 step set at 5000 rpms with the soft-loc. At the same rpm with the clutch tamer it would 60 in the mid to high 1.50s if I came out closer to redline it could have 60 better, never tried it. I used the Ram 900 series clutch disc (which is the disc in the powergrip hd setup) it's a sprung hub sintered metallic disc thats a lot more street friendly then a sintered iron disc but will handle more heat than a rag disc.
 
Over what I ran in the car "before" the soft-loc, the clutch tamer is about a half second better than the Centerforce clutch, hated that clutch nothing but a parts breaker and 60'd in the 2.0
 
19DART66 said:
Over what I ran in the car "before" the soft-loc, the clutch tamer is about a half second better than the Centerforce clutch, hated that clutch nothing but a parts breaker and 60'd in the 2.0
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So why not tell us which is quicker, the CT or the sintered iron cl
j par said:
I'm living yr free these days and it was like taking a big poop...
I was hoping to keep this towards people who actually are going to use the product and have the product and are curious about the product and how we can help each other make it work better...
I hope he wasn't answering the question that I had asked you? Did your 60 foot time drop? If I was able to lose a half a second in my 60 foot I'd surely give up miles per hour for better ET? And that's another question did your ET improve? Which I assume that's what these are meant to help as well? also if for any reason you don't want to answer these questions like racer secrets that's fine I reckon....
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And you STILL didn't learn anything. If you could read between the lines, you'd see what anyone with eyes could see.
 
19DART66, thank you for sharing all this! I sincerely appreciate all this first-hand information. As I was saying I liked it for the idea of easier on parts, consistency, ect..
I think it will be interesting for someone like myself who has not done a 1. 50, but generally more in the 2.0 ballpark and see if it can bring that down?
I do have I'm sure a 1. 68 and a lot of 1. 7 Time Slips back when I had the car set on full kill with wrinkle walls, Skinny's, roll cage, and a burning desire to put the front end to the sky! LOL I mostly just broke parts LOL...
My goals have changed...
 
The soft-loc ran a best of 10.709 @ 126 and the clutch tamers best is a 10.98 @ 122 on the 9x26 slicks but the clutch tamer is being run with the heavy flywheel and clutch, so in fairness I am not comparing apples to apples. The last time at the track which was in late spring I put on a set of 9x28 stiff sidewall slicks and the car fell off a .15 and two more miles an hour, 60's were 1.58 to 1.62 that day(got better as the slicks broke in). Car ran kind of flat that day and ever since. Found out why last week the second diaries in the carb were bleeding down, needed a refresh. That what happens when you let them sit to long between uses.
 
Oh and YR the soft-loc is going back in as soon as someone ( won't say who) will send me a sintered iron 10 inch disc. I've been waiting weeks for it. Its been charged to my credit card which is do next week so it will be paid for before I get it. Thanks that reminds me I got to go make a phone call.
 
19DART66 said:
Oh and YR the soft-loc is going back in as soon as someone ( won't say who) will send me a sintered iron 10 inch disc. I've been waiting weeks for it. Its been charged to my credit card which is do next week so it will be paid for before I get it. Thanks that reminds me I got to go make a phone call.
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I've been looking at putting the Ram Powergrip HD in my 68 Dart as a street/strip compromise. I can't run the borg and beck pressure plate though so they were going to send me one with a diagpram pressure plate so my american powertrain throughout bearing will still work.

Are you unhappy with the Ram Powergrip HD? If so why? This Dart will be 70% street use and burnout on the street going from stoplight to stoplight and maybe 30% track time at test and tunes or wednesday night drags. Won't ever be a serious drag car though. I'll save for an auto drag car if I want to get serious into drag racing.
 
My decision to try out the Tamer was based on the fact that I will be running Drag Radials and thought it might prevent blowing the tires off at launch. This car might see the track 2-4 x per year.
 
68Dart500 said:
I've been looking at putting the Ram Powergrip HD in my 68 Dart as a street/strip compromise. I can't run the borg and beck pressure plate though so they were going to send me one with a diagpram pressure plate so my american powertrain throughout bearing will still work.

Are you unhappy with the Ram Powergrip HD? If so why? This Dart will be 70% street use and burnout on the street going from stoplight to stoplight and maybe 30% track time at test and tunes or wednesday night drags. Won't ever be a serious drag car though. I'll save for an auto drag car if I want to get serious into drag racing.
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Says USA but it sounds like your pretty local if those are your test and tune and race nights?
 
mbaird said:
My decision to try out the Tamer was based on the fact that I will be running Drag Radials and thought it might prevent blowing the tires off at launch. This car might see the track 2-4 x per year.
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I've only ended up racing three or four times a year myself. I mean I've done went twice this year and hopefully once or twice more if I'm able to get this in time..
 
19DART66 said:
The soft-loc ran a best of 10.709 @ 126 and the clutch tamers best is a 10.98 @ 122 on the 9x26 slicks but the clutch tamer is being run with the heavy flywheel and clutch, so in fairness I am not comparing apples to apples. The last time at the track which was in late spring I put on a set of 9x28 stiff sidewall slicks and the car fell off a .15 and two more miles an hour, 60's were 1.58 to 1.62 that day(got better as the slicks broke in). Car ran kind of flat that day and ever since. Found out why last week the second diaries in the carb were bleeding down, needed a refresh. That what happens when you let them sit to long between uses.
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Glad you mentioned the flywheel. Even the soft lock clutch will have issues with heavy flywheel weight. It's a handicap no matter what you do. You can only tune around all that rotational inertia so much.

For those following this is why you don't need a heavy flywheel. Even in a mostly street car. You just don't need all that weight swinging around.

SL or CT or whatever else you do, if you have more than 15 pounds of FW weight you are hurting yourself.
 
j par said:
Says USA but it sounds like your pretty local if those are your test and tune and race nights?
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I'm in WI on the western border. But I go to Rock Falls in Eau Claire WI or BIR in Brainerd MN
 
68Dart500 said:
I'm in WI on the western border. But I go to Rock Falls in Eau Claire WI or BIR in Brainerd MN
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They have the same kind of schedule here at the local track on Friday and Saturday nights they do 1/4 mile test and tune and on Wednesday nights they do eighth Mile for a purse..
 
At any rate I'm still in no hurry at this point. I like the challenge of kind of doing the fabrication work as much as the anticipation of some positive results..:thumbsup:
 
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