Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

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As I understand it a cylinder controls the rate that the clutch pedal travels. Aides consistency. There’s a “magic” rpm for each combo where it doesn’t bog or blow the tire off. The clutch tamer takes one of the two things you need to do, release the clutch identically each time, out of your hands, you can just focus on launching at the “magic” rpm. Can you use a two step to hit the “magic” rpm sure.
 
When you figure out how to install it ( or more precisely where) post details pics so I can install the one I have had for over a year !
A-bodies have a clutch/column arrangement that wont allow it to be installed. I am even willing to drill my dash but cant find a way to make it work !
 
replicaracer43 said:
That's the easy way out! Theres not much more bad *** than a 4 speed drag car!
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With a dual quad tunnel ram stroker in front of it, a v gate shifter on top of it, and a spooled strange axled D60 behind it!!...
I think Slant-6 boy @RustyRatRod needs to get back up on the porch and stop trying to throw his bench racing antics into this thread- (Him and yr) and kind of wanted this thread to take the bench racing out and put some real-life experience into it. Now I have talked to the vendor and my check will be on the way today and we will have pictures of the product when it comes to my door....
 
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furrystump said:
As I understand it a cylinder controls the rate that the clutch pedal travels. Aides consistency. There’s a “magic” rpm for each combo where it doesn’t bog or blow the tire off. The clutch tamer takes one of the two things you need to do, release the clutch identically each time, out of your hands, you can just focus on launching at the “magic” rpm. Can you use a two step to hit the “magic” rpm sure.
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Yes, but I think it is more within reason to say that the clutch slips also according to how you adjust it to how much RPM you're giving it? It seems you could almost two step at a extremely low RPM which of course you wouldn't do but for conversation sake and have enough clutch slip to make it evenly take off. Of course it would be a lot more...
But I think the magic is above 3000 RPMs and low enough for your car to gain more RPM once engaged...?
 
mbaird said:
When you figure out how to install it ( or more precisely where) post details pics so I can install the one I have had for over a year !
A-bodies have a clutch/column arrangement that wont allow it to be installed. I am even willing to drill my dash but cant find a way to make it work !
Click to expand...
Oh grasshopper, where there's a will there's a way...
I would be shocked, flabbergasted, downright Godsmacked if I couldn't get this to work in my car.....
 
I've heard something about the emergency brake being in the way? oh damn it anyways I've been meaning to hook that thing for 4 years now! It doesn't look like I'll never get the chance LOL....
Actually for a long time now I've been thinking about an alternate pull up style or something like that...
 
^^^^ with any luck I'll be the one that fabricates the perfect bracket for a direct install for an a body....:thumbsup:
 
furrystump said:
As I understand it a cylinder controls the rate that the clutch pedal travels. Aides consistency. There’s a “magic” rpm for each combo where it doesn’t bog or blow the tire off. The clutch tamer takes one of the two things you need to do, release the clutch identically each time, out of your hands, you can just focus on launching at the “magic” rpm. Can you use a two step to hit the “magic” rpm sure.
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You don't need a magic compromise launch rpm with the 'tamer, you want all the rpm that you can get! The 'tamer's drag race advantage comes from being able to store more energy prior to the start, as it provides you with a way to control the rate that stored energy is fed into the chassis. Feed that stored energy in too fast- bad things happen. Bog, spin, upset chassis, broken parts. Most address those problems by just storing less energy (compromising launch rpm). Thing is those problems don't actually come from storing too much energy, they come from feeding stored energy in at too fast of a rate.

Grant
 
j par said:
I've heard something about the emergency brake being in the way? oh damn it anyways I've been meaning to hook that thing for 4 years now! It doesn't look like I'll never get the chance LOL....
Actually for a long time now I've been thinking about an alternate pull up style or something like that...
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I just had an idea what I could do with that pistol grip handle!? Kind of down on the floor next to the driver's seat the pull up handle for my for my E-brake??...
 
j par said:
I just had an idea what I could do with that pistol grip handle!? Kind of down on the floor next to the driver's seat the pull up handle for my for my E-brake??...
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Ahhhh, no.

Just reroute and weld the tabs for the E-brake cable. Ya know, when you get around to it.
 
j par said:
I just had an idea what I could do with that pistol grip handle!? Kind of down on the floor next to the driver's seat the pull up handle for my for my E-brake??...
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Not a bad idea except for maybe the pistol-grip part LOL. The A-body parking brake setup is useless anyway, location of the pull handle makes it impossible to use while driving (like if you want to briefly lock up the rear tires to initiate a drift in a turn) and you can't get as much force on it as a foot pedal. I will be converting mine to a "real" e-brake handle setup on the trans tunnel at some point that's for sure.
 
The other option is to build the motor so it has plenty of low end grunt so you can leave just above idle and not have it bog, like the FAST guys do with their repop bias ply tires.



The T/A at the beginning ran an 11.60 on that pass, and the blue 71 Challenger R/T also runs bias plies.

There’s an AAR with drag radials also leaving at low rpm and well into the 11’s.

If you look through some of the other videos from that track rental, there are some other runs by those two guys...... running 11’s on crappy tires with 4 speeds...... and not leaving hard.
Those two are also running ex manifolds.
 
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PRH said:
The other option is to build the motor so it has plenty of low end grunt so you can leave just above idle and not have it bog, like the FAST guys do with their repop bias ply tires.
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That's basically a way to reduce the hit by diverting some of the engine's torque into accelerating the rotating assy. If you have traction, that method leaves quite a bit of potential on the table.

Grant
 
I agree...... but in good air that T/A has been 11.30’s @123 without leaving hard, in a very docile package

The blue 71 has been 11.40’s.
60’ times in the 1.70’s.
 
JPar, hope you are using an SFI, explosion proof bell housing along with an SFI certified flywheel..........slipping clutches and heat generated could give you a "Big Daddy" foot....just my 2 cents
 
PRH said:
I agree...... but in good air that T/A has been 11.30’s @123 without leaving hard, in a very docile package

The blue 71 has been 11.40’s.
60’ times in the 1.70’s.
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Put a tire on those cars, I guarantee you they would not be leaving that way...

Grant
 
j par said:
With a dual quad tunnel ram stroker in front of it, a v gate shifter on top of it, and a spooled strange axled D60 behind it!!...
I think Slant-6 boy @RustyRatRod needs to get back up on the porch and stop trying to throw his bench racing antics into this thread- (Him and yr) and kind of wanted this thread to take the bench racing out and put some real-life experience into it. Now I have talked to the vendor and my check will be on the way today and we will have pictures of the product when it comes to my door....
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Bench racing...LOL
 
Put a tire on those cars, I guarantee you they would not be leaving that way...
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The T/A has numerous times.
It doesn’t go any quicker because leaving higher changes the dynamic of how the motor gets loaded.
The factory trans aren’t geared optimally for high rpm launches with high traction.
Something has to give(tires or clutch), or it bogs........or breaks.
When you put sticky tires on it, and leave high...... and it hooks......it bogs.

Also, the AAR had drag radials on it, and still left pretty low.

I do understand what it takes to get a stick car to “work”.

FDAA0609-7675-4884-98F8-5381E063E04F.png


My feeling is, for Jpars goal of running in the 11’s with a streetable combo, it might be cheaper and easier(as well as being easier on the car) to figure out how to get it done without the monster hole shot.
My point was to show you don’t need a killer launch to run in the 11’s with a docile streetable combo.

But I’m happy to sit back and watch it play out.
 
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PRH said:
The T/A has numerous times.
It doesn’t go any quicker because leaving higher changes the dynamic of how the motor gets loaded.
The factory trans aren’t geared optimally for high rpm launches with high traction.
Something has to give(tires or clutch), or it breaks.
When you put sticky tires on it, and leave high...... and it hooks......it bogs.

I understand what it takes to get a stick car to “work”.

View attachment 1715385432
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100% FACT. Something has to give, or you **** parts out faster than you can replace them.

More RPM at launch isn't always better. Especially with something like a Pontiac. Or something making a big load of torque. Unless you can get way past peak torque when the two step comes off.

The clutch can't be abusing the tire. RPM, rotational inertia (like heavy flywheels) and an aggressive clutch will beat the tire to death, break parts and go slow if you can make it live.

Just some random thoughts from a life long bench racer.
 
PRH said:
The T/A has numerous times.
It doesn’t go any quicker because leaving higher changes the dynamic of how the motor gets loaded.
The factory trans aren’t geared optimally for high rpm launches with high traction.
Something has to give(tires or clutch), or it bogs........or breaks.
When you put sticky tires on it, and leave high...... and it hooks......it bogs.

I do understand what it takes to get a stick car to “work”.

View attachment 1715385432
Click to expand...

Send the T/A my way, I can help him out with that :)

Grant
 
It’s a purpose built FAST car........ one of the better running 4 speed cars in the series.
The combo is optimized for the traction available from the bias ply tires.

If it were a car designed for slicks...... it would be set up differently...... like my friends Firebird.
 
@weedburner : If I'm understanding how your clutch tamer works it basically controls how fast the clutch pedal is let out ie it allows the clutch to slip? If so I would assume a person would need to run a fairly aggressive clutch (non organic material) so that the clutch doesn't get glazed over from all that slipping right? My Centerforce Dual Friction **** the bed when racing a few weeks back and from what I can tell it was from getting too hot and glazing.
 
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