Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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CUUDAK said:
Got a call from the machinist Friday telling me my 400 was done. Went Saturday to pick it up and after it was loaded in the truck I noticed that the stock main bolts were in it?? Of course the owner of the machine shop was in Dallas racing so no one to gripe at. After I tore the bag open then is when I seen that the mains had NOT been line-honed nor was my girdle fitted. S^O^B!!!! :flame:

I am speechless!! :shout: Going on 5 months at the machinist!! WTF!
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The girdle and studs are supposed to be installed prior to Line Honing the mains............So they just handed you back the Girdle in the box and said have a nice day?

Time for a new machinist. I went through the same crap until I found Brian at IMM Engines! :D
 
Mad Dart said:
The girdle and studs are supposed to be installed prior to Line Honing the mains............So they just handed you back the Girdle in the box and said have a nice day?

Time for a new machinist. I went through the same crap until I found Brian at IMM Engines! :D
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He couldn't find the girdle. That is when I started getting irritated. No word yet! The machinist in my small town closed some time ago. The shop is still there with all the equipment. Wish I knew him. I think I could manage to work the machines.
 
I agree with Mad Dart you need a new machine shop.
I would double check all machine work that was done.
Hang in there the build looks great. Hope they make it right for you.
 
Ridge said:
Hope they make it right for you.
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Me too! There was also a charge for $75.00 "Check Main Clearances" ????????????? Uh! Dude???

I hope he makes it right. These guys build some nasty Chivys!
 
Not much to update but,
I picked up a set of L19 Rod bolts for the Eagle rods. Had to call the machinist today since I haven't heard from them in a week. Supposed to be ready Wednesday?? I need to finish the DP where it splits to duals then I can send them to the blasters. Got the front half of the fuel system done to the firewall. Need 4 6an 90's to get it to the carb..

Hopefully I can find a reputable machinist close to finalize the balancing of the rotating assy. and can get started with the engine build.

I might be coming to the downhill side of this! Yippeeee!

STAY TUNED!!!!! MORE TO COME!! :D
 
Well,
I got a voicemail at 4:30, my block is done! Again!
Gonna go and get it tomorrow. I still need to get the rotating assy. balanced and get the inserts. I been a bit busy trying to get this damn money tree to bloom! Got a little bit done tho! Replaced a little sheetmetal in between responsiblities. Here is a couple of pics,
 

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Picked up the block today!! Looks good but I wonder if I should get everything double checked??

The machinist also told me that since I changed the 8740 ARP rod bolts to L19 that I need to have them resized!??

Anyone elaborate on this!!??

Here is a couple of pics after I painted the block Mopar Turquois,
 

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CUUDAK said:
Picked up the block today!! Looks good but I wonder if I should get everything double checked??

The machinist also told me that since I changed the 8740 ARP rod bolts to L19 that I need to have them resized!??

Anyone elaborate on this!!??

Here is a couple of pics after I painted the block Mopar Turquois,
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I am guessing because the Clamping force will change?
 
Backtobasics said:
You might reconsider the placement of this regulator, if you plan on running at NHRA drag strip. As I recall, they do not want regulators and such mounted on firewall, incase of transmission part failure, that could cut or damage lines and cause a fire.

I am running off memory, you might double check.
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You are probably right. But, I bet they would ***** about no cage before the regulator:tongue:. I thought it would be safer running it there and outside the driverside frame rail instead of the inside of the passenger rail where it could be destroyed there too since it is right beside the bellhousing??

There is only one NHRA track here in Baytown, Tx.. I no longer support that track since the owner change. I run 3 of the smaller independent 1/8 mile tracks. Who knows??
 
Looking good buddy. The NHRA/IHRA wont let you put the regulator there either. Turbo cars are notoriously hard on transmissions, and you don't need to lose the whole car to a nasty fire when that happens. Just my two cents, those rules are there for a reason. The fuel line and regulator need to be on the outside of the frame rails till they pass the flywheel.
 
I think there is something in the rule book about the brake line being near the bellhousing also....
 
turbodart68 said:
Looking good buddy. The fuel line and regulator need to be on the outside of the frame rails till they pass the flywheel.
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I am not ?ing you!
But my Falcon had the 1/2" Aluminum fuel line attached to the inside of the rail all the way to the regulator that was mounted to the right front rollbar over the suspension. Most every car that I have seen the line run along the inside of the rail. Now it was only the main line cause the inlet lines to the carb were on the normal right side then to the carb. Of course I did have a CSI trans shield around the glide and a JW bellhousing.

The tech guys never said anything but they did pop me for the wrong size allthread that held the batteries down!! I had to change it to 3/8" instead of 5/16".

Again, this is a streetcar that will see little track time. I frequent more of the street meets and car shows locally. I do however go to several of the local 1/8th mile tracks and they seem to be a bit more lax on tech'n cars.

My brother-inlaw can get me some "Inconel" tubing that I can route the fuel line through if that might help.
 
inkjunkie said:
I think there is something in the rule book about the brake line being near the bellhousing also....
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Thats a whole other issue. All the brakeline run right there beside the bellhousing on the inside of the framerail too!
 
Ridge said:
I agree with Mad Dart check the rod sizes to be safe only takes a few minutes.
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Yeah,
I am waiting on the Tech Line thermal coating to show up. I will bake it on and then take the crank, rods and pistons to get them balanced. I will have them retorque the rod bolts and resize them for $85..
 
Tech Line thermal coating. Was machining done allowing for coating ?
Film thickness will vary from .0003” to .0015” of a inch
You don`t want things to tight.
 
Ridge said:
Tech Line thermal coating. Was machining done allowing for coating ?
Film thickness will vary from .0003” to .0015” of a inch
You don`t want things to tight.
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My pistons set .040 down the hole. I also will be using a MLS headgasket which is .040 thick. Should be plenty of room. I also used a sanding roll on a dremel and knocked the sharp crowns off the valve releifs. I couldn't find any 120 grit Aluminum oxide anywhere around these parts so I ordered 10 pounds from Midway and it should be here Monday. Then I can blast the top of the pistons and use my airbrush to coat them. Just gonna cook them in the oven at 300 for an hour. As soon as this is done the rotating assy. goes to get balanced. I still need to finish the split at the bottom of the DP. Gonna try and get that done tomorrow. Keep getting interupted.
 
Well,
after all the prep on the pistons I got the coating sprayed on and baked them for an hour after initial temp was 300 in the piston. Obviously I got it too thick on the first piston and it bit me! Will have to redo it.
 

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CUUDAK said:
Yeah,
I am waiting on the Tech Line thermal coating to show up. I will bake it on and then take the crank, rods and pistons to get them balanced. I will have them retorque the rod bolts and resize them for $85..
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>No skirt coating ? ateam.:read2:
 
Ridge said:
I also was thinking about skirts ie my question be for about clearance.
Good luck keep working I want to see it finished.
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I just blasted the bad coating off the first piston and reshot it. Gonna let it air dry for a while longer before I cook it. The coating that stuck was a bit tough to get off.

The pistons card stated .0045 P/W clearance. They are pretty loose down the hole tho!

Dropping the rods, pistons and crank to the machinist tomorrow for balancing.

Ordered the gasket set and the 1215 valley pan today. Also ordered the main/rod inserts too.

I just put a 408 into my buddies S10 and finishing it up for the track this weekend. Made enough to buy a new MSD Pro-Billet distributor for the 411"
 
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