Just need a double entry fee, i think, and name change on the side.Borrow? Hmmm, can I drive?
Just need a double entry fee, i think, and name change on the side.Borrow? Hmmm, can I drive?
Because the air is much more dense when on boost, the flame travels much faster through it. The retarded timing (compared to NA timing) ends up just being the right amount of timing. Try not to think of it as a late firing event. It just takes less time to make complete combustion so you don’t need to start it as soon.With boost and a late firing event, combustion pushing merely straight down, I would bet these engines would handle way more than most think. High combustion/compression pressures take heavy tolls.
Probably a port size for engine size thing, 383 has same bore as 426 and bigger than a 413.So, do I remember correctly that Max Wedge sized heads don't work well with the smaller bore of a 383?
Ok thanks for the clarification. I was picturing less advance timing so combustion would be after TDC and direct push down. Less cylinder pressure than a high compression NA engine. Maybe I was wrong, or just using the wrong words. Likely both.Because the air is much more dense when on boost, the flame travels much faster through it. The retarded timing (compared to NA timing) ends up just being the right amount of timing. Try not to think of it as a late firing event. It just takes less time to make complete combustion so you don’t need to start it as soon.
It’s just normal for people to phrase it the way you did. The “push down” ends up happening at the same time. If that makes sense now.Ok thanks for the clarification. I was picturing less advance timing so combustion would be after TDC and direct push down. Less cylinder pressure than a high compression NA engine. Maybe I was wrong, or just using the wrong words. Likely both.
Part of the problem would be finding an intake for max heads on a 383.So, do I remember correctly that Max Wedge sized heads don't work well with the smaller bore of a 383?
I only mention it as it is what I have. Not sure the best way to lower the displacement, pull a plug wire off or what. Offset grinding a crank to use BBC rods is intriguing. Or just run 373-439ci and up the game. It is a lower record that, in theory, should be easier to obtain. I ask about max heads because I would assume head flow is critical and curiosity.Part of the problem would be finding an intake for max heads on a 383.
Indy is the only one I know of.
The 413 and 426 maxwedges both had bore notches for the 1.88 exhaust valve. (4.187 and 4.25 bores. ).
The aftermarket heads, even with maxwedge ports, have a smaller exhaust valve, so a 383, .060 over probably doesn't need em a 383 +.030 might, but I don't think so.
But why the question? 383 is too big, and I don't know of any destroker cranks. Gonna have a crankshop offset grind a steel 383 and use bbc rods and pins?
Come to think of it.... didn't original B1's use a 440 width intake on a low block, and spacers for an RB?
Hmmmmm.....
I guess a good thing about pulling plugs easier to move up a class.I only mention it as it is what I have. Not sure the best way to lower the displacement, pull a plug wire off or what. Offset grinding a crank to use BBC rods is intriguing. Or just run 373-439ci and up the game. It is a lower record that, in theory, should be easier to obtain. I ask about max heads because I would assume head flow is critical and curiosity.
Especially since bottom power ain't much of a concern.If you think about it, max heads, even trick flows, are still smaller than the big port chevy head used on the 375 hp 396.
I would think a maxwedge port head would work fine on a 371 on the salt.
N/A or boosted.
Exactly. It opens the car up to many different classes without having different engine programs.I guess a good thing about pulling plugs easier to move up a class.
So, in this scenario, what displacement class did you want to drive?Exactly. It opens the car up to many different classes without having different engine programs.
How bout we focus on achieving your goal, then we’ll work on mine. I get the feeling after you get to 200mph you’ll want to get to 201mph. If you know what I mean.So, in this scenario, what displacement class did you want to drive?
AA/BFALT?
I pretty sure one of the engine shops on here said he stroked a B crank to 3.54 so + 0.17, I imagine you probably could go - 0.17 3.21.A 383 +.030 block would need a 3.23 stroke crank to get to 371.7.
I'm not sure you could offset grind .150 stroke off of a 3.38 crank, and still use bbc rods.
IF it's possible, the crank shop had better be really good at what they do.
Theoretically, from 2.375 to 2.17 (.030 under stock 2.2 bbc) is a possibility, so.minus .205. Id offset as little as possible to get to 371". Then you need to find a bbc rod you like, and custom pistons to fit.I pretty sure one of the engine shops on here said he stroked a B crank to 3.54 so + 0.17, I imagine you probably could go - 0.17 3.21.
I like it, not sure i can get all of that, but i like how you think.Theoretically, from 2.375 to 2.17 (.030 under stock 2.2 bbc) is a possibility, so.minus .205. Id offset as little as possible to get to 371". Then you need to find a bbc rod you like, and custom pistons to fit.
(I'd use B1's, have pistons made for them, use the B1 intake, single four, blow thru 4150, and a big single turbo. )
Scanning thru this thread but not reading every post, I'll say that engineering anything to live for a duration at bonneville will be more difficult than making power. I'd use any NASCAR platform as a basis and make tweaks from there. I do have a good r3w8 I took it apart to inspect and make changes. I was going to use it for my class but decided to stay big block.So, would there be an advantage to destroking a big block, like 400 to take advantage of the bore size, or just use a 360 or 360mag. The 400 could use Max Wedge ports. Does the same opinion hold true when considering boost?
This is for my Bonneville effort. The class I would rather be in would have a limit of 372ci
We are talking 5 miles of fighting for traction. Maybe a mile of true sustained WOT.Scanning thru this thread but not reading every post, I'll say that engineering anything to live for a duration at bonneville will be more difficult than making power. I'd use any NASCAR platform as a basis and make tweaks from there. I do have a good r3w8 I took it apart to inspect and make changes. I was going to use it for my class but decided to stay big block.
Likely out of my budget, but what would you want for the R motor? Shoot me a PMScanning thru this thread but not reading every post, I'll say that engineering anything to live for a duration at bonneville will be more difficult than making power. I'd use any NASCAR platform as a basis and make tweaks from there. I do have a good r3w8 I took it apart to inspect and make changes. I was going to use it for my class but decided to stay big block.
For a street car, or drag car, I probably wouldn't bother.In the mean time, I spoke with a local race engine machine shop that is highly recommended. They can offset grind the crank if that becomes the plan. $350-400.
Now talk to be about rehardening the crank or nitriding. When does this come into effect, or is it any grinding beyond clean up??