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If someone “had to” use those pistons with heads that had the Ede style chamber………if you modified the chamber and the piston, you could probably remove enough material between the two to make it work. It would depend on how thick the piston and head are in the offending areas.

What do they cost these days? Are they actually available? I ported a set of the DIRT legal version, which are basically the same but have a raised “SPEC” cast into the ports. With a 2.08 intake valve those flowed 300cfm with a basic porting job. Edit- looks like about $2350 bare, and $3600...

I’d rather port on the aluminum heads.

Fwiw, I hope you use the thin Cometics. Then we’d both know if that was over the edge or not.

If I were building it for a customer, and it absolutely positively had to run on pump gas, it would get the thick gaskets.

Wow, that’s a first!! I’d probably flow another hole and see what you get. I can see putting the new valves in, in your situation. You have the valves and the means to do the job. It’s just some time. If the new valves are single groove, that’s all the more reason to swap them. I’m actually...

I doubt the bigger valve will do all that much for the seat for the pants feel in the vehicle.

We all have our own way we like to do things. In a mild application like this, I’m not going to get overly concerned with having a steep top angle. So, I’d run a shallower angle, which would give me more top angle length with less lowering of the seat depth.

Good info. What I’d do is balance the crank with whichever plate would suit the immediate need(auto or std). Then modify the other plate(if possible) to duplicate the imbalance of the first one. Quick thought……..is one of them for a Magnum?

I’ve had success putting grooves inside the rocker to connect the machined groove in the ID of the body to the pushrod oil feed hole on rockers where the distance between the two was fairly long.

Unless someone takes it on as a pet project, my interpretation of “welding and epoxy” = $$$

I’ll throw another guess into the ring……… W2 exhaust rocker

You should carefully inspect the area where the spark plug seats against the head to see if it’s flat(to use a gasket), or tapered(tapered seat plug) no gasket. The reason I mention that is because it appears that Champion plug you have there isn’t supposed to use a gasket. Edit- The digging...

I’m thinking todays new episode will not be Take 4 on the 572 hemi, but will be either a new victim for the dyno, or maybe even a non-dyno show.

Sounds like the engine has motor home or industrial heads on it, which can have 18mm plugs. Those heads usually have a water crossover where the exhaust heat cross over is. Might be worth pulling a valve cover and getting a casting number off the head so you can ID what you have.

Something I find that can happen when you’re chasing the high lift flow by messing with the SSR is………you can reach a point where getting the floor shaped better for high lift flow, ends up costing you some flow in the low/mid-lift area of the curve. Then you have to decide which way to lean for...

So far, in my mind, the 2.055 valve with the more “plain Jane” valve job looks the best. The number two test in the last pic of post 335.

My .02 is……. It’s not a race car………..so it doesn’t need the max rpm capability. I’d shoot for 290-320 over the nose.

We’re on the same page.

He’s not using offset keys, he’s using a timing set with a 3-way gear.

Why would the damper move at all? You’re moving the camshaft in relation to the crank. Edit- Got it. It appears you’ve figured out that your test proved you installed the cam retarded.

I hope they use that cam initially. Depending on what else gets changed, it might make for a good head comparison test. Then we’ll see how close it is to reaching that 800hp number(assuming the new heads are actually better). I can’t recall off the top of my head, any N/A engine I’ve worked on...

No meat!! There’s talk about a nice steak to come at some point down the road. But nothing to bite down on in that one. Going from memory from Jesse’s first thread about that engine…….. I wouldn’t have thought the cam was an “800hp” cam. I guess we’ll find out.

If the cam timing wasn’t verified, and all that happened was the bottom gear got moved to another slot, and it happened to be the “retarded” slot……… my experience with those timing sets is that……. You moved the “cam” 4*, which is 8* on the wheel.

Imo, the cranking pressure test is showing what was done. Lower cranking pressure…….. cam is retarded compared to before. Fwiw, and I wouldn’t have installed it like this, but the MP engine manual shows the P4120233 292/.508 cam to be installed at 108…….at the retainer.

That Oregon cam sounds like a decent match to me for the OP’s goals and combo.

Wheeeww!!! No meat in the one…….. nuthin but fluff. I FF thru pretty much the whole thing.

No problem as long as they are both located by the step.

...keep checking it like he was……at like 2k……and keep retarding it 1-2deg at a time…….and then after zeroing in on what setting yielded the best power……..zing it up to 6k and make note of what the true total timing was. I thought on the last pull he was at 26*, at whatever rpm he was checking...

You’re not paying attention. There is an ignition advance curve programmed into the box. If you can’t access the curve in the box to see what it is(need a laptop), then the only way you’ll really know what the timing is doing at high rpm is to put a light on it…….. and run it up to the upper...