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Very cool. I had wondered if Offenhauser would be open to partnering with somebody to develop EFI parts, and I'm glad to see it happened.

Glove box liners are on hold when it turned out they were too large for the print farm's equipment to run in one piece. It's looking like the dash center section may also be too big to economically do on-demand printing, although I will come back to that (and the glove boxes) later. Right now...

BTM reads manifold vacuum or the hat, fuel pressure regulator goes to the hat.

Keep it out of detonation and you'll be fine. They get used all the time on mild turbo and nitrous builds. I'd only start to worry about them if you're going over 15 psi or so - and even then, that's a maybe.

That's an interesting one. I've been thinking about the center section of the dash since it often gets cut up for radios. I could do ones that have a blank section for the radio and/or the heater as well as any other delete parts. I tried to do a glove box insert; unfortunately it was too large...

There's always C16 or ethanol! :p

You don't need to go crank fired for the EFI route - although conversely, you could go with a crank fired ignition and carburetor if that's what you really wanted for some reason. If you want a crank trigger on a slant six, here's how I set one up. But the easy way to go with electronic control...

Finally found a good time to run the driveshaft to a shop to have it shortened and a larger rear U-joint installed so I can finish my 8 3/4" axle swap.

If ordering tube headers was as easy as ordering 3D printed parts, I'd be tempted to CAD up a turbo header setup.

Usually the brake booster hose is on the manifold rather than on the carb itself.

It lines up directly with the bolts on the firewall. No brackets or adapters needed. You only need them if you start looking at later aluminum body, two bolt MCs.

Maybe start withTechflex Cotton and dip it in black polyurethane?

I would suggest a Garrett Gt35 or even Gt32 if you want the boost early, or a Holset HX35. These are not normally sealed for draw through use, though. It is possible to rig a wastegate to intentionally delay boost instead of limit it, but this would need a large external gate and electronic...

I hope by "daily driver" this is one you want to drive daily, not one you have to drive daily. This will be enough of a fabrication and tuning challenge that you should plan on significant down time before it's completed Personally I suspect that a draw through carb may be a little easier to...

I have been wanting to tool up for making new voltage regulators, ignition modules, and other electronics. Unfortunately the local zoning takes a dim view of mass producing automotive electronics in a spare bedroom for some reason. I do know a few contract manufacturers from when I worked at DIY...

Stock carb wouldn't have an idle jet, but it does have an idle mixture screw. A lot of the time a sitting carb may be gummed up, although if you can see the accelerator pump spray it may be worth just trying to use cleaner in the fuel instead of disassembling and rebuilding the carb. Have a look...

I have not used this myself as I am fairly confident the oil pump drag will pull the cam in without any need to push it from outside. It might have been a different matter if I had the budget for a dry sump. And I don't see a need to a bearing at the front of the cam. I had not meant to suggest...

The options are to have something simple push the cam in from the front, or replace the freeze plugs at the back of the cam with some sort of contraption to pull the cam in. The "pull the cam from the back" option just seems a bit Rube Goldberg no matter how you set it up. Roller bearings may be...

Some earlier Ignitors had magnets embedded in a white plastic collar around the shaft below the rotor.

In that case, I would expect reinforcing the timing cover would be easier than rigging a needle bearing setup and cover on the back of the block.

Oops, somehow missed that. For a slant six, there are two adjustment screws for the distributor, one at each end of the bracket. So undoing the one at the end of the bracket may get you enough to reach your timing target. If it doesn't, pull out the distributor and move it one tooth.

Yes, that's what I have seen too. Not using one myself.

First, you might want to remove the timing tab, clean it, and paint it to highlight the marks. Makes things a lot easier. Is this a slant six or V8?

I've added pictures of the prototypes I printed at home to the catalog listing. At first I laughed... then I realized some of the stainless steel fender trim might seriously be a candidate for printing. Larger sheet metal probably won't be economical to print, but I'll see what pricing looks...

I can understand the concerns here. That is why I'm not using PLA (although the PLA shift knob in my daily driver has held up for over 2 months in Atlanta sun so far, dash vents will be subject to more heat), ABS, or PETG. The low end option I have is a polyurethane, and the higher end is a SLA...

I've found a service that can do print on demand 3D printing, and I'm working on making some reproduction parts based on measurements off my '66 Dart. First one out the gate is dash vents, given how easily they break. I've also made ones to fit the 2.5" stock hose and also 2.25" hose. I can't be...

Water injection is an antidetonant and also can be used for certain types of emissions control (such as if you want to pass NOx emissions while running extremely lean AFRs). May have made sense when leaded gas had just been banned and Big Oil couldn't figure out how to put back the octane. Now...

The Pertronix has the pick up coil inside the ignition module. No way to reverse wire it unless you cut the module apart. The only wires to the Pertronix are 12v power and coil negative. I don't think you would get any spark at all if you get those reversed. You could have trouble but still sort...

If you need a timing chain, almost everyone has gone to one source that casts a thin three spoke cam sprocket. These reportedly have issues if you go past 4000 rpm on a regular basis. The exception is the JP / Roll-Master double row timing chain set, which is the one you want for a performance...

It can help if your leg is getting sore, but won't change the stopping distance unless you currently can't lock the brakes with your hardest stomp. Power brakes on an A-body are mostly a matter of driver comfort.