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One way to economize that makes sense is to buy a Dutra casting for the front 3, and use a stock manifold for the rear 3 exhaust ports, which retains the factory heat for quicker warmup times. You have to cut and cap the rear section of the manifold.

I would be interested.

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/Slantfin/L1130760_1.jpg http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/Slantfin/L1130755.jpg http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/Slantfin/L1130766.jpg

I'll try to post photos.

I was able to install the roll bar without cutting into the side trim panels, but then I ended up drilling a hole in the side panels so I could through-bolt the rear door pillars to the roll bar. The bolts go inside a piece of 3/4" pipe that I notched to fit the roll bar. The car was a...

I also made an over elaborate shock tower brace.

I installed a 4-point roll bar on my 67 cuda convertible. We tied it into some perches welded outboard of the sub-frame connectors. It gave me a good anchor point for shoulder-belts. Also bolted a piece of steel pipe across the front below the radiator support at the front of the frame rails...

Here in the Northeast, you just get a five-gallon bucket of foundation coat, and paint it on with a brush. Just kidding, kind of. My usual routine is wash, dry, maybe some brake cleaner if greasy, rust converter spray, primer, paint, undercoat. I'm going to try the Tractor Supply paint ASAP.

'73 or '74 Plymouth Valiant, perhaps.

If you use a large-bore manual master cylinder, the effort needed isn't too bad. I have the small-bore one because I like to make life difficult for myself.

A short school bus avoiding getting cut off by a minivan by going up on the guardrail, straight up in the air like a killer whale. A VW bug completely on fire on a dark road in West Virginia, the week Elvis died. Had that BBQ smell.

Large bore MC will require less braking effort from the driver. FYI, the difference between drum and disc brake MC's is the residual pressure valves. The valves were 10 psi for drums and 2 psi for discs. The older style wheel cylinders for drums required this in order to keep them in position...

Sub-frame connectors will do the most. Up front, you could just bolt a couple of struts between the firewall top flange, and the fender bolts, as was done in some 70's cars. I welded up a shock tower brace that was my usual brand of overkill, and maybe heavier than necessary. I also added a...

That don't sound right.

I used a Raybestos MC36426 from Rockauto.com 5% discount if you write this in the "how did you hear about us" box: 63216824387085 . It's $68 list, but is new and not a rebuild. I also used one of these distribution blocks in my A-body, and it has been good so far. I haven't done an extreme...

Sounds like a loose wire or ground. The jump would put it over the top. Or as you suspect, the battery could be low on juice.

No power assist means not as many moving parts.

Push down on lid, turn key until it clicks, and then release?

If you have the cylinder head off anyway, a cheap way to increase power is to have a bit planed off the head. You can take off as much as 0.080" or more, but around .040"- .060" is better for regular gas. To increase compression a lot, you should find the displacement of the combustion...

Also does it fit early or late (1973+) cars?

Also, the loss of free play in the new suspension parts transfers more stress to the worn bushings. Of course, Autozone definitely sucks, Rainman.

Somebody stole my fender tag at Carlisle a few years back. I wonder what they did with it...

I'm looking for a good steering box from a 1972 or earlier A-body. Close-ratio would be a plus. I'm looking for one that has not had the sector adjustment tightened, and is in good condition. I also have a couple of large-sector gearboxes to trade, if preferable.

That reminds me of the last time I brought my 340 Barracuda to an oil change shop, Penske on Geary St. S.F.. The Asian kid working there started it, and giggling at his friends, just floored the gas in neutral, before it had a chance to circulate the new oil. Never Again!

I'm just annoyed by the fact that gas was relatively cheap last summer, and both my Mopars were off the road.

Did mine in black, but I like your scheme.

I'm thinking get a new strut rod and some LCAs. The cost shouldn't be too huge.

I had a crack in the floor just like that. I ended up installing sub-frame connectors, for extra structure. I don't have kids, not trying to offend, but I don't know if I'd start one out in an antique car. It might not be fair to either of them. At least upgrade to a dual master cylinder...

To change the spring rate, you need to temper the bar.

I have hand-stitched leather armrests, that I stitched by hand out of leather.